WildPlumDx

removed the wastegate pipe altogether just then went for a drive and no difference what so ever ?

right ?

yeah ? i know its small but guys on this forum rakon they boosting 25psi ? and another 17 or so ? http://www.4x4wire.com/forums/showflat. ... art=2&vc=1

hey i havent tried what you suggested yet but i went outside popped the hood and revved the crap outta it from the engine and the wastegate acuators little metal pipe that makes the wastegate open close etc dosnt move at all ?

which pipe do i block off ?

on further analysis my boost controller doesn't do jack for the boost tapped out or not doesnt make a diff, why would this be ? ive hooked the controller from waste gate actuator arrow points towards waste gate as controller says and then the other pipe which is just to release any excess pressure or something just hangs out in thin air like it spose too ? so basically you hook up wastegate pipe and thats it on boost controller correct ? something no right anyway

sweet yeah i might do that dont wanna stuff the gauge as for boost controller surely i should be able to boost more than 15psi not that i'm going too its just the max the controler lets me go, standard is 9 and can you get pressure release valves that are adjustable ?

my boost gauge fluctuates erratically between +3psi and -3psi around there so fast its blurry at idle only, whats that mean ? ive hooked the gauge up to the manifold, didn't have a vacuum pipe off manifold so where ive plated over the ERG ive tapped a little brass fitting in there and hooked the gauge up there, also wound up the boost didnt really seem to change anything ended up having it tapped out went a little better but only got 4psi out of it altogether, also the pressure release once at 100k would consistaly go pssh (one second) pssh ...and for as long as you kept your foot down and yeah have i done something wrong seems all weird ? oh and its also on a 2.5 turbo diesel 4d56

oooh btw is there anyway i can test my wastegate too see if its working right ?

dam i'm good never needed ou guys anyway nah posted my problems on a 4wd forum and there all bloody useless so bought my diesel problems here nah thanks guys huge help!

as for the boost gauge can i tap into that egr plate ? the gold looking plate in the center of the intake manifold? yup i have everything i need pyrometer boost gauge and controller, one guy had his pajero up to 25psi been running for 6 months, i dont wanna run that high anyway 15psi would be nice, plus once i blow it up i'd like to put a 3.8 commy engine in it

wastegate rod usually look like that i have no idea to be honest ? should it move when i rev it or something ? can i check it somehow ?

sweet and as for boost gauge wheres best place to put that ?

i pulled the release valve off your right it was that thing in the pic and swapped it for a diff one off my old manifold, didnt make a diff so it must have been ok just leaking a little and as for the egr i ripped that shit off ages ago lol and i think the wastegate must be this thing in the picture below with the arrow? how can you test it to see if its working ok ? also the second arrow is this where you put in a boost controller as i have one that i'm gunna install after a put in boost gauge and pyrometer

oh right lol yeah read it again and noticed the rofl ! anyways also my wastegate is leaking oil around the base of the thread, the wastegate is that small round pressure valve on top on the intake manifold correct ? well pulled it off and it was packed with old oil build up didnt look too healthy, what would cause this ?

thanks guys, but whats an inline pump ?

sure is a VE pump

well wondering if anyone here knows how too do injector pump timing on a 4d56-t mechanical pump engine just bought a diesel fuel pump timing gauge and it came with no instructions, any help ?

lol fair enuff guess thats a good way to learn, but thanks heaps you guys for the help much appreciated

hmm maybe i should bleed them again just to be sure, cant hurt, thanks for the advice

nope no valve was just a old fuel line but it makes sense as it cant suck air in if its submeged in fluid will just suck fluid back in, i dunno hes the mechanic and the brakes work sweet now, yeah sometimes you just need an outside view lol speically when you get blinded with fustration

fixed! my mate came round and sussed it and it was kinda embarrassing i put the new pads in wrong like in correct but in a set they have an outer and inner pad!? who knew? not me, so it was riding on the little metal lug that was spose to be on the other side and as i was putting my foot on the brake the caliper was twisting and making it feel as if there was air in the lines! crazy but yeah simple explanation for such a headache of a problem! i'm a Muppet also when he bleed the system we cracked the bleed nipple and left it cracked open as i pumped the brake much faster way, and air cant get back in due to the bleed nipple being under fluid coz of the pipe attached, man was it faster and easier and works just the same!

i didnt put it in dry i bench bleed it but yeah its beyound me what the hell is going on just isnt making sense hopefully new m/c will fix it

yeah well the saga continues so far ive re kitted the cylinder was clean as inside no pitting etc well is made from alloy so it wont rust but chucked it all together bench bleed it put it all on, bleed the brakes everything looks sweet but the master still feels like its by passing, although no fluid escaping thru the back or anything everything fine but its still broke so my conclusion is the master is just stuffed for some "UNKNOWN" reason doesn't make sense but i think its time to buy a new one, i aint paying someone to do something so bloody simple, yet its being complicated new master i think was 117 and that on green card at repco so not to bad, should of done that from the start

done everything all good now, thanks for the help you guys !