Baxter

/F

Yeah man will become familiar with your car as pinto is not too difficult but requires you to think and will probably not cost the earth, even buying a rusty cortina and taking the engine and box out would be waaaaaay cheaper and faster, car wouldn't even be in the shed for long. Then you will see the trans tunnell size and the distances between bulkhead and radiator, and between the arches, how the cable clutch runs, how to mate up a different accelerator cable, how much you need to cut out of bulkhead for a stupid distributor and all that shit so you can judge better for yourself in the future what will and what wont work. 3sge would be dope but it wouldn't be my first choice, mx5 twincam with 6speed would be boss if you were gonna spend shitloads (that was what I dreamed of for my last escort)

x4 for Pinto.

By far the easiest/cheapest way to make an Escort move. And the big advantage for a first timer is that it's been done 1000s of times all the hard prototyping work has been done and documented. There used to be an great site that told you all the options of what could and couldn't be used for a Pinto swap a step by step guide with  pics (I forget its name sorry, but someone here will know; I think it was an Aussie site  iirc).

That said, 1600 xflows can be made to go pretty well, easiest motor in the world to work on and plenty of knowledge out  there, but yeah and lot of $$ and effort compared with using a stock Jap DOHC instead. 

I'm tossing up between a 4G63 swap (there's a great site that tells you how to built them up for RWD) as they're comparatively cheap, very robust, and can make big power if turbo. I got as far as measuring it up and iirc it'd fit, but would be very tight. I'm probably going to go the Mazda way with either a Telstar DOHC and ute based gearbox or an MX5 setup. - But every time I think that I remember the super hot xflow I have in parts on my bench that would fun and keep it's classicness

First event this Sunday

Run over summer, this Championship is focused on beginners and semi-regular competitors. This year's Companionship has been extended from 3 to 4 events.

• You do not need to be member of Otago Sports Car Club to qualify for Championship points (but you do need to be a member of a MSNZ affilated club like OSCC to compete in hillclimbs).
  

• You can enter in a WOFed road car with some simple safety gear.
  

First event 16 December

More info and regs: http://oscc.co.nz/SealedChamps.htm

The easiest way to boost torque (more useful off-road than power) is to fit a bigger motor.

I reckon a 4G63 would be great in a Niva and have thought of doing that to mine, but as people are saying it is too much work (even if you use a Mitsi 4WD box and avoid the engine-to-box conversion issues, TC shaft comes out the wrong side, etc, etc) unless you were doing it yourself and already had good fabbing skills and equipment.

Supercharging would be fun (and better than a turbo for off-roading), and while it can be done on a carby it'll never be as reliable as a less stressed larger motor. I'd avoid turbocharging as on a carby set up it be less reliable than a bigger less stressed motor, plus the power boost will be in the top end which is not ideal for off-roading.

Yep, the diff is bolted to a mount on the engine, but no biggy, - especially if you go the Fiat route...

The only motor than bolts in easily is the Fiat/Lancia DOHC. The Fiat uses the same mounts as the Lada motor, so far far less fabbing that any other motor will need. Basically all you need to do is get the sump modified to make room for the diff, grind a slot in the gearbox, fab a diff mount, and match the exhaust up.

The Fiat 2 litre will be far more reliable than a turbo (especially a carby based turbo set-up), much cheaper, and more useful off-road.

This swap has been done hundreds of times and there's plenty of info on doing it.

They're getting hard to find at sensible prices these days but they're still to be found, especially in your neck of the woods iirc.

Check out my site, there's lots of stuff you'll find handy to know there even about Nivas in general, plus it has Cloggy's Fiat DOHC conversion, which many people have used as a resource to do the same: www.ladaniva.co.uk/baxter.

And sign up at the lada.co.uk forum; well worth it for advice and a good community. And there's a good thread there on getting more power out of the Lada engine (though remember you want power low in the rev range, not peaky like a hotted up car).

PS - Gee Motors in Napier are your friend. Only genuine parts dealer, and prices aren't too bad on most stuff.

Just an example. I have another that goes to 36mm

these rule

Fuck yeah, super handy.

See viewtopic.php?f=28&t=30284

Okay Mines a 711m 1600 x-flow so flat head.

IIRC you can pop the1300 pistons straight into a 711m flat head as the pistons are the same except the size of the combustion chambers.

does it have movement ?? no . ok then wheres my sticker then .

Exactly.

A couple of places have failed my Niva's bushes which are chronic for looking rooted for years when they're fine.

It's just laziness (or worse, dishonesty) really - they should always check for actual movement before failing stuffed looking bushes imho

Squares were consider cooler or more up-market back in the day as all pommie car lights were round until about 1970. However, as a few peeps have said round give a better pattern.

So it's all down to the look you want or the performance you want.

Personally round all the way.

SENNA - the film. 2 showings only in Dunedin

He might have driven Honda in F1, but an awesome driver with an awesome story.

"You don’t have to be a petrolhead to ‘get’ the legend of Formula One racer Ayrton Senna. Ask any Brazilian – or check out the most enthralling big-screen sports documentary since When We Were Kings."

Senna Thursday 11-Aug-11 6:15 p.m. Regent DUNEDIN

Senna Sunday 14-Aug-11 11:15 a.m. Regent DUNEDIN

(Not sure of the Chch showings sorry, check out the Film Festival's site)

Trailer - http://www.flicks.co.nz/movie/senna/

Pass it on.

There's a road legal legal one in Dunedin (Port Chalmers iirc) - I believe he takes it to the supermarket occasionally

Not sure about parts etc though sorry, but I'm pretty sure he was a member of a NZ military vehicle collectors club (which should be easy to google) who should be of some help.

Wow, thats a fucked story man!

Glad to hear you got it back though, hope he gets a decent punishment for something so stupid

Cheers.

I'll let you know what happened in court - assuming I'm actually ever told. But the cops suggested that he might get diversion, which although I'm a believer in restorative justice rather than the throw away the key approach, I think that would be is far too lenient (for reasons I probably shouldn't comment on until it's deal with by the courts).

It' pretty open and shut case. He was apparently to appear in court on Monday, but I haven't heard how it whet yet.

PS - if anyone has an unmolested spoiler for this model MR2 PLEASE PM me or e-mail me at mark dot baxter at op dot ac dot nz.

Found: It was sold - out of my own garage - to a colleague of mine - who the thief knew I knew - and helpfully reminded the 'buyer' they both knew me! :lol:

Highly stupid, but it nearly worked in the short term at least, as my colleague he sold it to was unaware it wasn't the thief's car to sell until he saw the article in the ODT.

Read about it here - http://www.odt.co.nz/news/dunedin/14097 ... r-betrayed

And thanks greatly to everyone that kept an eye out for it.

Bumpity bump.

Red AW11 (ie mark 1 MR2), T-top, facelift (ie with factory spoilers and skirts), and "Handling by Lotus" badges.

Reg SX8758, VIN: 7A8H60K0794112560, Chassis: AW11-0112560

Non-runner (though could be easily made to run), so probably towed/trailered some time in the last month from a lock-up in the Dunedin North area (near the Regent 24 dairy).

Ring police (reference is '6937401') or call me on 021-1146-753.

Here's a crappy picky of it off GoogleMaps:

If per chance the thief is reading this, please pop it back in the lock-up this week and no questions will be asked. And it'd also be awesome if you didn't crank the engine over it has a mystery knock.

Because they keep getting crushed....

...by pianos.

Solve all your problems in one go by running on LPG.

I've actually wondered about LP in the past as I have most of an LP system less the tank in the garage somewhere. But there's simply nowhere to put the tank that it's not in the way or at risk off-road.

Also depends on the GT engine - iirc there are at least 2 different GT cams (an earlier and a later one), and I'm pretty sure I've found different valve sizes as well. I think the valves were the same in the production years between the 1600GT and 1300GT, but not sure on the cams sorry.

Sure there are behaviour problems with Chch's "boyracers". Ad sure, they need addressed.

But I'm fecked if I'll endorse laws that make people going about their otherwise lawful business into criminals as a method of dealing with those problems.

The "draws attention to the power or sound of the engine of the vehicle" clause is way way too subjective. Strictly speaking simply by driving a car normally you are drawing attention to the fact it has motive power or makes noise. So in effect this can be used to fine anyone the police basically don't like. Sure, 9 times out of 10 it'll probably be deserved when it's applied, but this will not be the case all of the time.

Make the actual anti-social behaviour that is creating the problems illegal (most of it already is afaia), and don't make new wide-sweeping laws that could be used to effect far more people than those causing the actual problems.

Aye, that's the image that inspired me. asically I'm planning on copying the Lancia set up as much as I can.

It all depends on how your set up, if for example you mounted your supercharger directly to the top site of your intake manifold, with the carburettor on top of that, petrol pooling problems wouldnt be too bad.

If you are remotey mounting the blower with pipework running to the engine i definatly do not recomend it.

That's handy to know, as I was planing a slightly remote instillation. Sadly the Lada manifold isn't siamesed so I can't copy RUNAMUCK's intake.

I could get an Lada injection manifold from overseas, but the time I've set all that up I might as well have simply dropped a decent 2l Jap motor in the car an be done with it (which is the other likely option if I don't SC).

Hmmmmm; I'll have to have a wee thinky about doing the manifold and essentially sitting the SC on top of the intake.

Do you think the SC12's going to be big enough?

I would've thought an SC14 would be a much better starting point

I haven't done the maths, but I assume that if an SC12 can feed a 1600AGE over 6000rpm it should have no problem feeding the 8valve Lada. Most likely the price of the unit will decide if I go SC12 or 14

Dont run to much boost, im not sure what size the crank pulley is on a 4agze but from memory its bigger than the SC pulley ? someone correct me.

If the 4agze SC is over driven from factory maybe run the SC at 1:1 ratio on your lada.

Too much boost will equal detonation which will equal dead engine.

Yeah, not planning on going crazy with boost. The Lada is already relatively low compression (8 or 8.5 to 1 iirc), but don't like a lot of boost from what I can make out from a few Euro turboed ones (though possibly those were older conversions and probably had shonky ignition set-ups for higher boosts). Too much boost not only stress the clutch, but the Lada 'box isn't the strongest feature of the Niva so not going silly with boost is essential.

I had though I'd probably try and use the factory pulleys off an 4AGE as the ratio should be the same for the Niva (also a 1600), assuming they don't run silly boost from the factory.

I don't know if there are any oldschool shops that can change the springs in your distributor to stronger ones so the timing comes in more slowly. Otherwise you could lock the distributor at 20 degrees or something like that will run like total shit at some revs/loads but may prevent it from blowing up under higher loads.

The Volmex dizzy is basically retarded and doesn't alter for boost, and I was simply going to copy that and hadn't though at all about the curve. And that is potentially quite an issue.

The spring weights on the Lada can be altered to change the curve, but that's beyond me to get as accurate as it probably needs to be.

I might be able to find out what the changes are on the curve on the Volmex and use that as a guide. Actually come to think of it the Volmex dizzy may be able to be adapted easily into the Niva engine (mind you the curve for a SCed sporty 2l dohc might still be arse for a 1600 sohc luger). Hmmmm. Some thing to be done on that as well.

Cheers greatly for the pointers.

Anyone know if SC12 and 14s are any good for suck through set-ups?

Had a wee Google, but couldn't find anything especially helpful.

The main thing that concerns me is that the Toyota SC isn't design for have fuel pass through it; ie can it handle the fuel mix?

And will there be fuel pooling issues if the hose between the SC and engine intake is a bit long and bendy?

And yes I know blow through is better, but I'm just looking at options for a cheap bolt on set up for the Lada loosely based on a Lancia Volmex set up, but using an easily available Toyota SC.

Honda.

Economical, more reliable than a Toyota on average, and most are fun to drive.