Eatsrootsleaves

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On 11/02/2023 at 13:28, Goat said:

Final chapter of the brutally hard clutch saga. I replaced the clutch cable as this was the last part of the clutch system i haven't replaced.

Still hard as fuck. Yay.

I have replaced:

• Clutch basket
• Clutch plates
• Clutch release mechanism
• Clutch springs
• Clutch spring spacers
• Cable
• Lever and bracket

Still brutally stiff. I don't know. Looks exactly the same as my other one, which has a clutch as soft as butter. I don't know. What turds.

I remember installing a new main spring once the two one sits inside the other , and that new spring was too strong mad the clutch hard to pull in !

Nice Ironhead  did you solve the clutch issue ?, I can see that over the years its become a XLCH that started life as a XLH , and that clutch pressure plate is off an early model ? with the extra holes where small studs would of been , so you need to  check as their are three different spacer sleeve sizes for ironheads , make sure you have the correct length spacer tubes ? are the early pressure plates the same thickness? 

because seeing that early pressure plate on the 77 and reading about your clutch woes something is not adding up here , I have a 74 xlh with a  mustang tank like you brought your bike with , their not very common , quite hard to get , enjoyed your blog cheers

On 09/04/2023 at 15:28, Lord Gruntfuttock said:

Popped the cover to see what is happening in there, had a 3am think that maybe the tension on chain was too tight, or the loose cover meant the bush wasn't supported or something, plus the only change since it used to work was the new clutch spring setup...

Looks like oil is coming through transfer valve into primary, as designed. Not sure if it's too much until things are running...

Supporting the end of the shaft with my hand, I hit the starter button and the ring gear is definitely engaging properly...

So I removed the clutch innards and slackened off the tensioner in case anything was mechanically binding...

And with the case back on, the result was exactly the same, a solid clunk as the solenoid pulled in and ring engaged, but no rotation, even with another battery hooked up... 

Then  I put 12V straight on the starter terminal (another bike battery connected in parallel)...

The starter motor spun freely when not engaged, then when I tried with the starter button in and solenoid engaged, the engine spun over perfectly, which was a relief... 

So there's still an issue but at least I know things do work. Not sure if it's low voltage or a wiring issue, but at least I can put things back together after logically sorting the problem...

So if the oil bag level is still reducing after bike has been sitting and u have reseated the 3/8 ball bearing , what happens to the pre 77 (eskimo pie) style oil pumps is the bush on the drive wears and the gravity forces the oil up the shaft into the cam chest . To fix this is a pain as you have to remove the pump ! but once removed take the lid off it and get a groove machined into the top of the pump lid and press in a round rubber seal to seal the shaft . Unfortunate but it happens to all of these pre 77 bikes sooner or later , and if oil was filling up the primary just unscrew the mesh valve and replace with a new one , do not block it off , be sure that your starter motor mount is sealed well because they have a habit of leaking , and its impossible to see where the oil leak is coming from ! the P cams are a very good all round cam , nice bike and good luck .

On 09/04/2023 at 15:28, Lord Gruntfuttock said:

Popped the cover to see what is happening in there, had a 3am think that maybe the tension on chain was too tight, or the loose cover meant the bush wasn't supported or something, plus the only change since it used to work was the new clutch spring setup...

Looks like oil is coming through transfer valve into primary, as designed. Not sure if it's too much until things are running...

Supporting the end of the shaft with my hand, I hit the starter button and the ring gear is definitely engaging properly...

So I removed the clutch innards and slackened off the tensioner in case anything was mechanically binding...

And with the case back on, the result was exactly the same, a solid clunk as the solenoid pulled in and ring engaged, but no rotation, even with another battery hooked up... 

Then  I put 12V straight on the starter terminal (another bike battery connected in parallel)...

The starter motor spun freely when not engaged, then when I tried with the starter button in and solenoid engaged, the engine spun over perfectly, which was a relief... 

So there's still an issue but at least I know things do work. Not sure if it's low voltage or a wiring issue, but at least I can put things back together after logically sorting the problem...