Petes mk2

Now to start on removing everything connected to the engine before removal. Had to cut of exhaust off manifold as whole system was just welded together. Drain coolant from radiator and block, then remove radiator and fan. Unplug wires to water temp and oil pressure sensors. Disconnect starter motor cable. Next remove accelorator cable assembly and remove carb. Tag on carb reads (Weber 771F AA A 6J 2 ) will look up to see if this is what I need for motor I'm putting back in car. Remove heater and vacuum hoses. Disconnect speedo and clutch cables. Remove both intake and exhaust manifolds. Out with distributor. Unbolt gearbox support cross member which looks a bit the worst for ware. Almost forgot to take outgear lever. Next out with the motor slowly slowly. Please I got the tilting attactment for crane as you have to apply a lot of tilt to clear front of car. Looks like we have got a 1300 motor. Hadn't checked numbers before I took out motor and was under the impression it was a 1600. https://oldschool.co.nz/index.php?/topic/84912-petes-mk2-escort-1600-sports/

Its been a while since I last posted so have managged to get a few things done. Have removed tail lights and number plate lights and labeled all wires. Also taken pictures to help me put back together. Next remove that part of the loom up to where it conects with main loom. Also removed all the remaining glass without breaking any. Rubbers for side windows look to be in good shape but the front and back ones will need to be replaced. Found a few rust spots around the window edges. Hopefully not to hard to repair.

Thanks Marty for all the information about the diff. Sounds like I just need some silicone when I put it back together and see how it performs. With regards to the 8"-9" drum brakes, I found some old receipts that said the car had a new 1600 engine fitted when its speedo was 15168. I also have the New Vehicle Invoice which states model is, 1977 Ford Escort and the body is Sport. Cost $5955 new. No mention of motor size but could it have been a 1300. That would explain the 8' drum brakes. Cheers

Thanks for advice once again. Have removed drive shaft from diff flange and noticed a small amount of oil seep out. Has not continued but is this normal or do I need to replace seal. It is a Timkin type diff. Also how much play should there be when you turn flange by hand. When I turned it, it moved about 20 mm before load came on. Regards removing the engine should I drain the oil out of it. The motor is not going back into this car and maybe sitting around for a while. Are there any other thing I should do before storage. cheers Peter Link to project build https://oldschool.co.nz/index.php?/topic/83961-petes-mk2-escort-1600-sports/#comment-2501579

Firstly, Thanks for the helpfull advice given in the Project Discussion section. Went to Safr R Brakes who were very helpfull and put me on the right track. Have had brake shoes relined and collected new wheel cylinders. Have fitted these now and bleed the system. Everything seems all good. Next step is to start working on getting the engine and gearbox out. Started by removing drive shaft. While unbolting rear flange I notice a small amount of oil come out. Not sure if there is a seal that needs replaceing. will look into this. Have left a couple of question about motor removal in Project Discussion https://oldschool.co.nz/index.php?/topic/84912-petes-mk2-escort-1600-sports/

Link to project build https://oldschool.co.nz/index.php?/topic/83961-petes-mk2-escort-1600-sports/#comment-2501579

Not sure how to link this with Project Discussion so hope this works https://oldschool.co.nz/index.php?/topic/84912-petes-mk2-escort-1600-sports/

Hi everyone. Since starting work on my car I have a few questions that you may be able to help me with. First Do you need to have seat belts for the back seats of a car this old. The car has only 8 inch brake drums on the back. Would an upgrade to 9 inch drums be of any benefit as motor is being rebuilt so will produce more hp. I understand it is not that hard to do The doors have quite a bit of rust on the inside at the bottom. What is the best way to treat this. Cheers Peter

Finally back on the job. Took out weather strips and retaining clips from doors Removed divider channel for glass followed by glass which seems to be in good shape. Next took out quarter windows. After cleaning they looked really good. Glass had a sort of lime scale around the edges which was quite hard to remove. Next took out the regulators, cleaned them up , ready for putting back in later. Found quite a bit a bit of rust in the bottom of the doors and some of the drain hole were blocked up. Not sure how to deal with this. Will attempt to start a Project Discussion page as have a few question that someone might be able to help me with. Cheers

Finally got round to removing all the seats, carpet, door cards, kick panels etc and are now $3.25 richer. Only found three more areas of rust that will need to be repaired. Two in the floor pan in front of back seat. Not a big area and should be easy to replace. The other area is in the side wall of the passenger foot well. This might be a bit harder to fix. Most of the floor pan is covered in sound proofing which looks to be in good order. Have cut this back around areas of rust and it looks like new underneath. Some surface rust which just needs to be treated with rust converter. Also decided to take overriders of bumpers which proved to be harder than expected. Two screws shared off and had to be drilled out and tapped. The others took a lot of patience. Bumper are matt black and will need to be refinished. Not sure if painting or some other finish is needed.

Finally made some space in shed and have a work surface and cupboards for storing parts in. Car is going to be repainted so plan is to get it to rolling shell state. Time to start removing fittings and find out what is hiding underneath. Quarter bumpers off, indicator lights out, Grill removed which is in good shape just a bit faded. Headlight buckets out which brings to light the first major case of rust. Lucky it is just on the right side. Started work on the back and removed rear bumper, tow bar and cleaned out boot. Spare tire well has a load of bog which once removed shows more rot. Going to need a panel beater I think. I'm sure there is more as have seen signs of other bogged areas

Have decided to start work on the original motor. A Friend of a friend works for a motor reconditioner and has kindly offered to help. So packed up all the bits and pieces and off to his place to access what is needed to be done. After pulling apart and cleaning we have a list of things to do and parts to buy. Block looks good but needs to be bored out, Crank just needs a polish. Had two old pistons and two new ones in it so don't know what was going on. To buy, set of pistons,rings, oil pump,water pump, clutch kit, timing chain and a few other bits and pieces. Fly wheel is going to be lightened. Cam is getting reground to a mild sport profile. Head is in a bit of a sorry state with all exhaust valves badly burnt so four new valves and hardened seats put in. Also going to port head for some extra power.Time to start spending some money.

Bought this car 15 years ago after helping my son restore a 1971 Escort XL. Was being used as a farm run about. Got it home and used until Rego expired, then parked it up in shed and put rego on hold. Previous owner had replaced engine with 1600 Cortina motor which was a good runner. The old motor came with car so hope to put back in once reconditioned. Over the last 15yrs, have had numerous people call in wanting to buy after seeing parked in shed. First job was to see if we can get motor running. Fuel tank out, drained and cleaned. Tank put back in, plugs out and spanner on pulley but couldn't turn motor over. After applying more pressure got some movement and finally turning over. Put in new battery, replaced spark plugs and hit key. Oil light went out and fuel made it to carb but no spark. Another hour and decide that we need to replace the condenser. Another try and she starts up straight away. Sounds pretty good considering she has been sitting for so long. Time to make some space in shed and start the big job of restoration back to how it was new.