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Mikeee

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Posts posted by Mikeee

  1. Discuss Here

    1979 dirty 30.

    Mildly tinkered 4k with 5 speed. Kings in front 2" blocks in rear, some sort of boy racer exhaust that's only just tolerable enough to stay on the car. Impul Hoshinos now with proper fitting 205s, came with stretched pizza cutter rubbish.

    Also came with free rust and bog.

    post-20822-0-27834400-1468243912_thumb.jpg

    All welded up ready to start making crappy bits shiny. Berroca piss yellow ain't gonna fly

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    Door frames and centre pillar will make a big difference in black so did that last night. Doors don't need to come off again now which is good because I'm sick of that.

    post-20822-0-26013700-1468244522_thumb.jpg

    • Like 5
  2. Nah in the uk its actually pretty competitive, well once you're older than 25...

    Just so many companies there desperate to grab your money and if you're happy to do some ringing about you can get really cheap deals.

     

    I majorly disagree. Insurance is a nazi scheme in the UK. Insuring a BMW Z4 was roughly $5000nz/year when I was there. One company even quoted £5000 which was the value of the car. I need to get temp insurance on it at the moment to get it to a garage for repair, and that's £200 for the week or £40 per day. The companies charge you per minute to call them which shows how much they need to compete for business.

    • Like 1
  3. Awesome adventure and write up! That shopping trolley looks intense! What's the plan for the next trip?

     

    I did a similar road battle last year in a 74 corvette. Memphis to St Louis to Denver to Vegas to LA then shipped it on to NZ. Going back next month in a '40 Dodge to stuff my face with BBQ in Jackson TN, will still be there in Sept if you're in the South for a burnout or 6?

    • Like 2
  4. Rust can eat 2-3mm a year I believe which is a noticeable amount. I have backlog resto cars stored outside that I've sprayed damaged areas and the rusty bits don't appear to be any worse a year or two later. It's at minimum enough to not make time a factor for increasing complexity of the repair

    • Like 1
  5. I've also sprayed it on to a rusted surface lazily without doing any other work to it. Seems to be effective enough to stop it getting any worse

  6. i have, it is a rust neutralizer that forms a skin on it.  Seems ok but i'd scrape the skin off with wire brush and put a protective coating on it.  The skin is not something i'd trust yet, don't think it lasts more than 6 months in weather.

     

    I've been using Brunox for years. Rust where steel replacement isn't necessary, grind or sand as much rust out as possible, coat in brunox leave for 24 hours or longer. 

     

    If it's a exterior panel requiring a quality finish, sand out as much of the brunox as possible before prepping. If it's an area you don't care too much about like under carpet, you don't need to sand it out before coating depending on your coating material. It says it converts to a primer, but this is not suitable for panel finishing. It has poor adhesion and may react with certain coatings.

     

    Where steel replacement is necessary, I spray on after the repair is complete. Again, leave for 24 hours before prepping further.

     

    Fish oil for surfaces that won't be painted

    • Like 1
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