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legendlives

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Posts posted by legendlives

  1. Since July I've done quite a bit. All of it documented on the facebook page, but in a nutshell:

    After seeing the car out in the open, it needed to be lowered. As the wheel to arch fit was perfect, the only option was to move the arch up the bodywork by 2".

    22196475_763633613823346_5403792326601622773_n.jpg.06d74a0afd0c099717e751f5008ce9c3.jpg

    Then added exhaust 'holes' to the front of the arches. :)

    22449639_767549733431734_8205829165393269847_n.jpg.ee58eeb4762253a3a2738e422cefd616.jpg

    The boot has now got the returns and drip rails:

    26169208_801697490016958_1764107873226223400_n.jpg.01c06aa209cce0184559d8cb20d81ae8.jpg

    The rear lights are in:

    26733929_803317456521628_2490513057730540743_n.jpg.67b256e3a4bd041b9256070a18adade5.jpg

    And the roof panel is welded in:

    26219835_800027540183953_1183269944028483271_n.jpg.eed4ae3048a3da0236ff0d08df261acf.jpg

    A few small rust repairs to do, then the body can come off to finish/paint the chassis.

    :D

     

     

    IMG_1741.JPG

    • Like 8
  2. This arrived today:

     

    26322576506ccf09fe.jpg
     

    It's a Getrag six speed from a 2012 Mustang which will live nicely behind the quad cam and give my right hand something to play with.


    Also arrived was this:


    26322576507162cc82.jpg
     

    Which is a sprint car chassis. It's damaged, but I want it to cut up so I can use the tubework and brackets etc. Cost was $34.99NZ, a fraction of what the Dzus brackets would have cost new.

    • Like 2
  3. So planned out the brackets (this stuff is all planned you know!):

    263225752512e04ff6.jpg
     
    Cut and drilled the bracket material (this is 8mm mild steel plate). The four mount brackets are already tapped m10 thread in this pic:

    263225752508354f77.jpg

    Trial fit before going any further. The mount bolts are M10 12.9 countersunk allen head bolts.

    26322575250996f5a5.jpg

    Then weld on the correct spacers. These were through-drilled the correct diameter and then tapped m12 after welding:

    26322575250c67e582.jpg
     
    and bolt it all together. The uprights will be countersunk more to allow the bolts to be flush, and the caliper bolts are only there for trial fit:

    26322575250e1aff17.jpg
     
    26322575251143248c.jpg
     
    There will need to be very thin shims between the calipers and mounts, but at least I know it will all works.

    • Like 1
  4. "At last" I hear you say "Something different to that bloody bootlid"

    The drop-tube front axle came with vented (Holden) discs, but no calipers.
    I found these on a local auction site. They are JFZ aluminium 4-pot calipers (same as Willwood). I paid a lot (for me). $101NZ, but they did come with 3 sets of pads, a master cylinder to suit and some flexible brake hoses.
    Cleaned up on right, as bought on left:

    2632257493bdb9b5d9.jpg

    Although I didn't know it when I bought them, they are the perfect size for the discs I have. Just need to make up mounting brackets and they'll be fitted:

    2632257493bf6da343.jpg
     
    2632257493c1031434.jpg
     
     They have a nice old-school feel about them, but will undoubtedly stop the old Ford like an anchor has been thrown out the back!

    • Like 2
  5. Any more progress? Keen to follow the build.

     

    Cheers

     

    Yes, more progress posted!

    I try to do an hour a day on anything I can. Bootlid is more-or-less done now, body is sat on chassis, new front calipers arrived today (yay!) and will need mounting brackets made. More pics soon.

  6. Whilst the bootlid is ongoing at work, I thought I'd attack the front end at home.
    2632257382e049f7eb.jpg
     
    2632257382ea442f1e.jpg
     
    2632257382e5d71e00.jpg
     
    In it's past, someone had bonded in original steel grille and side-vents. These have to go as I'm looking for the smooth look like Blair's car.
    Fortunately the rust had loosened all of the filler, and within an hour it looked like this:

    2632257382ee0451e2.jpg
     
    2632257382f25629dc.jpg
     
    2632257382f689e5d2.jpg
     
    2632257382dcc1c455.jpg
     
    Next job will be fill the holes. I already have a plan!

    • Like 4
  7. Bootlid - the final (ish) chapter.
    All that was left to do was fabricate the inner drip/seal section.
    This started life as part of an old fire surround (upcycling is good, yes?):

    26322574390fa3e0f8.jpg

    from which I sliced a 90 degree angle section:

    2632257439103bfe79.jpg

    And curved it the old fashoined way by using hammer and dolly:

    263225743910edef8e.jpg

    Then edge-welded it to the skin:

    263225743911b2dc78.jpg
     
    26322574391259ae5e.jpg

    Once it was all made and welded into place:

    263225746121908899.jpg
     
    I made up this little tool.

    2632257461222c6554.jpg
     
    to bend the inner return. This is done very slowly by easing it down in gentle angles until it reached 90 degrees

    263225746122d2f17b.jpg
     
    Once that was done, all there was to do was make up a couple of small closing panels for the bottom:

    263225746abb9d70fb.jpg
     
    And welding the top section to the 'C' section that will be the support member for the lock.

    263225746ac0281a72.jpg
     
    The return is there so I can rivet an aluminium panel to it which will clean up the look of the inside.

    263225746ab97610e1.jpg

    I've left the bottom corners of the drip/seal rail unwelded as I may need to reshape them slightly when the lid is in place.
    That's about it until the hinge panel is welded to the body. Stay tuned!

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