L_Burmie

On another note, how does the ballast resistor determine when to allow full voltage through for cranking/starting, and determine when to only allow 6V through when running.

I would have assumed that there should be two wires feeding the ignition coil positive (one for crank, and one for run which goes via the ballast resistor).  So how does this system operate on only one wire feed from the ballast resistor and provide differing voltages?

So this is how I imagine the ignition loom is set up...

The car has run perfectly fine for 4 or so months in this configuration - i.e. with an external Ballast Resistor prior to the ignition coil, and a single wire to the positive terminal of the ignition coil.

The coil itself is a 6V ignition coil, and specifies that a resistor must be used with it.

Putting a multimeter onto the Ballast Resistor terminals and the ignition coil terminals, I get the following voltages:

• Ballast Resistor Postive : 10V when cranking, and 8V on run
• Ballast Resistor Negative: 10V when cranking, and 3.9V on run
• Ignition Coil: 10V when cranking, and 3.8V on run

Surely the ballast resistor positive should be receiving a constant 12V feed at all times.  And 3.8V on the ignition coil seems way too low.

I am getting spark off the HT Lead from the coil to the distributor.  Tried to bypass the ignition switch last night by removing the the ignition feed onto the coil, and running a cable directly from the battery positive but could not get the car to start.

Issue: Ford Escort Mk2 1600 kent crossflow will crank and fire, and run when the key is in position 3: Crank, but will die upon releasing of the key to position 2: run.

Have checked the system with a probe test light at the four points highlight, three of which light up when the key is sitting in position 2. The final point (coil negative) does not light up in Position 2, but flickers when in Position 3: Crank.

What else can it be, as it seems like the ignition switch operators correctly and the ballast resistor doesn't appear to be at fault (otherwise I shouldn't be able to get probe light indicators at both ends should i)? Could the coil be stuffed, even though the ohms seem okay? Or could it relate to rev counter/tacho?

Finally, should there not be an extra wire from the ignition switch which does directly onto the coil for cranking? It appears the only feed onto the coil is from the ballast resistor?

Yeah, I tried finding any old discussions but had no success, hence the new thread.

Does Poo Man work in that field? 

Am going through the process of rewiring the entire Cortina, and am contemplating installing a GPS Tracker now prior to running any of the new wires in the loom rather than cutting into the loom later down the track.  Preferably after a tracker which has a immobiliser which I can active remotely.

Looking for people's opinions/experiences with different trackers, or what brands and models you recommend.