fagoff

73 HQ Belmont

186 carbureted, reconditioned engine.

5 speed Toyota box..

I have been wondering about wether its worth converting my 186 to fuel injection.I like the idea of easier cold starting, more responsive power and more fuel efficient. Ive spent too much already so I'm not changing engines,But I'm not sure of whats involved ,how easy  is it to get the parts and cost .I have basic mechanical skills but would probably need help to do it or get it done .I'm interested in your thoughts input etc.

I know it will never be a race car but it would be nice to have a bit more get up and go especially when I want to pass some slower than me duffer. Would the overall cost etc be worth the effort.

Fagoff

73

HQ

Hi  I havnt been on for a while I moved to Thames from Chch over a year ago and drove my HQ up  went like a dream.

I repainted it not long before I moved didn't have much time so I just treated the rusty bits, bogged and painted it .

Now im settled in my plan is to cut out rusty bits and repaint the old girl. I recently bought a home handyman mig welder with co2 and lately a 3in 1 sheet metal tool it cuts bends and makes curves up to 300 mls wide in 1mm or thinner metal.I figure that should do for anything I need and can always join for wider pieces.

I picked up an old car door from the wreckers and have been cutting it up and welding in new patches also practicing bogging and painting  it. Im getting more ambitious at welding patches on my door including corners with fold over seams .

One question ,is it necessary to do a continuous weld on a car panel eg a door panel  or is it ok to just tack weld at say 5/10 mm apart all round and fill gaps later with bog. ?

The more I weld the metal the more potential for distorting the metal im working on.

If you havnt crossed some wires somewhere it will be a crappy earth somewhere both my holdens have done similar crap at times ,I had to pretty much pull every part of all  lights apart clean them up and make sure everythings getting a good earth.where they were in bumpers etc I also had to take bumpers off and make sure they were making a good earth with the body. the fun and games of 40 plus year old cars eh.

I've replaced boot seal got it through rare spares ,cheaper than basics ,for a change found the old one was fitted the wrong way also found all door seals have been replaced and also put on wrong way round I've refitted front two made a big difference to the loud wind noise it's always made.still fumes in car when decelerating ,but I've discovered it only does it when front windows are open ,,which is OK in winter ,but a bugger in summer when you need them open a bit.used to leak water badly through front doors when it rains hopefully that's fixed now too.

Extended exhaust pipe past end of car made a difference doesn't do it as much but still does occasionally

Good choice of car m8 I've also got an hq I think wofs only care about road worthy Ness. If you need to get a car re rego ed ,dead plates etc then any change from original needs to be certified.non original motor, gearbox, wheels, steering wheel pretty much anything really. I know cause I've had to redo three older cars in the last few years including my current one.low volume cert costs 500.they attache a metal plate around engine bay

Some good ideas there Thanks.the exhaust has got a chrome pipe on the end I've extended that out another 4 inches and sealed around the bit where it tightens up so now pipe is well past end of car will see how that goes.next thing mite be replace boot seal it's OK but probably not as good a seal as when new.I don't suppose the fumes could be getting sucked in driver or passenger doors the door seals are pretty poked really.had new air filter a month ago.valve seals really I know I was charged for new ones the reconditioner is pretty good .

I have an hq with a 186 engine with pretty much factory setup. Ever since I bought it It,it fumes in the car,smells like exhaust fumes not oil burning smell. .recently had motor   reconditioned,rings rebore bearings etc.

No difference with the fumes in car though. It doesn't fume around town below 70 km, mainly on open road when I put my foot down for a burst and usually when its decelerating almost always when im coming downhill and not accelerating. damned annoying.Things ive tried two mechanics cant figure out why it does it.had a recent tune up, timing was a bit off and was running a bit rich ,better now hopefully.checked exhaust and manifold for leaks, sealed up manifold joint with exhaust cement.check theres good suction at inlet hose off rocker cover. replaced PCB valve.made sure oil filler cap breather is clear,it does only have two small holes to breath through. made sure exhaust pipe sticks out past end of car.I sealed up all holes I could find in engine bay and boot,There are gaps at bottom of driver and passenger front doors. I can see light between bottom of doors and car body,door seals are a bit stuffed which causes a bit of wind noise.I recently noticed oil was spitting out of dipstick  and running down over oil filter ,I got a rubber tap washer onto it and no more leaks. Don't know what else to do any ideas or had same experience .

Ive had it all done .reborred and reconditioned my 186 ,and had the 5 speed W50 box fitted. drove it up to thames where im living working now . It goes really nice now a different car really to drive ,no more jamming gears between first/second and has better power for hills and passing .might look at what I can do to up the power output more in future ,its all pretty standard at the mo carby wise ,what do people recommend as relatively easy power upgrades for a 186 ?

connect cable at gearbox, lift rear of car and turn wheels while in gear check speedo end of cable is it turning, ?

It sounds  like moisture .Ive had that excess moisture can get into the compressor and go on car when being painted .even with a filter and regular draining ive occasionally had that happen ,you just need to sand back that area and repaint. though yours sounds like that rust convertor crap, I always wash it off after treating rust regardless off what they say. 

booked my HQ in to have the gearbox changed over next week .Threeonthetree, If your interested in my 3 spd gearbox send me an email as I will put it on trademe if no interest, brentmason@clear.net.nz

Ive had my 186 fully reconditioned it hums along nicely  now, so this week gota find someone to convert my gearbox to the W50, ive got all the rite bits apart from the crossmember. So making progress . Im off to Thames for a new job early march so need it all done before that.

Yea that would be great ta.

Is it possible to have a plate/bracket made up to fit my HQ crossmember  and the new w50 gearbox. According to my research so far the w50 mounts about 40 mm lower and slightly forward of the holden gearbox.Also does anyone have a w50 bracket ,the bit that bolts underneath gearbox and bolts onto crossmember bracket .

Id be interested if someone has one.

Took my hq to a reconditioner here ive used before,hes gonna do over next 2 weeks. I may be moving to the north island in near future so I have TO GET ONTO IT ASAP . oNCE ENGINES DONE IF I HAVE TIME ILL TRY AND CONVERT GEARBOX MYSELF .im not angry just pushed wrong button. (-:

Will the w50 gearbox fit with the HQ crossmember which currently supports my 3 speed box ?. Just trying to think ahead about what I will need to do or get .

had two estimates to do complete recondition of my 186 so far $ 3500 and $ 5000.Im picking up my gearbox tomoro and hopefully the conversion kit is here next week, so feels like progress

Thanx for feedback, I think ill check round town and see about getting my own 186 done up and fit the gearbox ive bought to it as well.

Its got a tired 186 now .I was thinking a 173 for better fuel economy around town.I found a 179 on trademe in chch ,but im not sure what the best option .Its daily driver around town and I want to be able to go for road trips and have enough power to overtake slow buggers ,but im mostly a cruising type ,ocassionally like to put my foot down for a blast.

Thanx guys, I have bought the w50 and conversion kit just need to find a 173 now .I had a 5 speed in my old EJ with a 186 it was great to drive for an oldy ,had loads of get up and go.I appreciate your help ,will be back for advice once I get it all. (-:

I do have basic skills not welding or fabricating though.I have thawt if I can get a 173 and matching gearbox ,I could get the motor reconditioned and then I should be able to manage fitting it all back into my car ,but havnt had  much luck finding these so far.How do you put pics onto here I want to show off my new paint job but havnt been able to work out how to get them on here.

Not having any luck getting someone tto replace my motor and gearbox. bit frustrated really.wondering if I should just get my 186 reconditioned. got an estimate of up to $ 3500 plus removal and refitting and about $ 4000 for a new Toyota box and conversion kit and fitting how does that sound ? .

Im still keen 4AG.  (-:

They never had those when I bought my Makita years ago ,id get the first one ,they do take a bit of getting used to the rite technique but can be used for heavy or light cuts .ive just flat and polished my HQs new paintwork ,2k clear over basecoat and used Megiars no 2 compound was really impressed with the megiars and I only cut through the paint in one spot bummer but not too bad .Ive always used lacquer clears and paint before and was regularly cutting through paint . always let the machine do the work don't get impatient like me and start putting more pressure on pad. (-: