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fagoff

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Posts posted by fagoff

  1. Got all my bits back and fitted .I had a water jacket welded to bottom of the inlet manifold , ive teed hoses off heater through that .They made up some snazzy brackets to attache my accelerator and choke cables. When I checked my plugs prior to first time running engine, they were all black and carbed up. I think ive got it running pretty good now.I think the fuel mixture is not too far off ,the plugs are now much cleaner a light brown color.They gave me some extra jets ,so I might try them after a week or so and see if they are better or worse. I managed to reuse my air filter after a bit of alteration. I do notice that there is a sticky point when I first pump the pedal which is a bit annoying ,once past that point it accelerates smoothly, So I'm working on sorting that out. With cable removed the mechanism on carb turned freely by hand though a bit stiff. And the cable seems pretty free and no grabbing. Ill try and get some pics on later.Car starts up good now when cold ,and has some wicked power too.

  2. Ive got a leaking head gasket. I recently had a local garage take the  head off my 186 holden engine and ported it etc along with other bits and pieces he did .Not long after  I got it back I noticed green coolant leaking out .I took it back and he fixed it ,I think he just retorked the head bolts. Ive noticed its still seeping out coolant ,not as bad but its still leaking. My mechanic will look at it again on Thursday and said he will replace the head gasket. in January 2015 I had the engine fully reconditioned including machining the head. I remember a couple of weeks after that the head leaked and I took it back ,they fixed  it and no more leaks.  Is there any thing different or extra that needs doing when you put the head back on the engine ?. My mechanic said the head looks all strait etc.

  3. I'm not happy with the ADM 34 auto choke carb ive got so I'm going to change it for a new weber 38 DGMS manual choke which is the proper choice with all my mods. Engine has lots more power but really chews through the gas now.Im also having a water jacket attached to bottom of the manifold to stop petrol pooling in manifold.I guess I will need to replace my manifold gasket which was new on a month ago, ? Does anyone know where I can get a new one from ?.

  4. We have replaced the accelerator linkage with a cable setup which really made the carby and motor come alive both barrels on carb are working fully now. Only trouble ive got is the pedal has a sticky point about 1/5 of the way down which makes it tend to rev too fast when you push on pedal, past the sticky point. I think its something in new pedal setup as when I disconnect cable from carby and hand operate accelerator on carb it is all smooth. Will look at it again over the weekend.

  5. At Frosty 5.4.15. Turns out you were bang on m8.I recently had the head off to port it etc .redid valves and they were leaking. since its all gone back together no more fumes. I really didn't expect that after the motor was fully reconditioned top to bottom by a reputable reconditioner in CHCH.

  6. I'm getting the HQ linkage changed to a cable setup which will make carb work properly.I acquired a weber round air cleaner which had the round mounting  hole  ,so I managed to alter the opening to fit my weber carb.its the chromed type which looks good I think. engine has definitely got some more get up and go now.Ill try and put some pics on.

  7. Finally made progress with my HQs 186 motor.Ive had the head ported, put a weber manifold and a second hand ,34 ADM twin port weber carb on. had the cam machined, more lumpy ,fitted freeflow extractors ,removed the resonator muffler, so I can hear it all better and changed the tyres to 205 ,14s for better road handling. I really wanted a manual choke, but couldn't find one when I needed it, will need to fiddle with this ones auto choke to get it working better.

    We used the existing accelerator linkage  to run the carb which still needs a bit of work to get it working 100 %.

    Over all I am happy with progress just needs some tinkering to get it all working better. Sounds like a v6 when its idling now.

    There is more useable power now ,with a bit more to tap into.

    • Like 1
  8. Im building a pedal car fron scratch this time,mainly so I can get good at fabricating and welding for big boy cars.Welding 3 mm steel is definitely much easier than 0.8 mm steel .The steering rack and column look good and work great the rear axle was difficult to heat and bend up ive only got a gutless torch at present so will need a bigger one if I keep on this track.

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    • Like 6
  9. Ive done up a few cars over the years ,but was always limited to mostly cosmetic work as I didn't know how to weld or fabricate metal.

    Late last year after loads of research  I decided to learn mig welding and metal fabrication.I tried to find courses in my area (thames) but nothing going.So after hours on the interweb I bought myself a home mig welder, 140 amp with gas, co2..Then off to wreckers for some old car panels. I have eventually cut out and replaced most of the original metal in them then I practiced bogging and painting them.

    Then I bought a fantastic how to manual on everything from welding to complex metal fabrication techniques.My new addiction is buying fabrication tools.Various hammers, dollies angle grinder a combined metal cutter bender and tube bender tool.My latest acquisition is a shrinker /stretcher tool, love it.

    My first practice project was a pedal car body.I found an broken pedal car frame at the dump.And fixed it up then built a body for it out of 0.08 mm sheetmetal. Its pretty  basic but the lessons I learnt were great.

    I have sold that one. I bought a pedal car frame on trademe to build the Mk2 and have just finished  the mk2 model which is a b it more complex and interesting  think. Very satisfying

    My next project will be a bit more hotroddish  which I am going to build from the ground up. I have  now acquired four matching wheels so will start on that soon.

    My aim is to become competent enough to replace and fabricate car panels starting with my HQ which has a few rust issues.I will try to load some pics on to the site

    My next project is going to be a hotrod type of car and I am going to build it from the ground up

    First two are mk1 second two are mk2

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    • Like 3
  10. Was hoping to get hq back today with mods all done but held up waiting for cam to come from chch. Ive got Craig the webber guy from Tauranga rebuilding a webber for me and he thinks he may have found a good manifold as well. Im replacing my crappy tyres with some 205 14s so that should improve handling a bit too, no power steering so hopefully it still steers ok. Even with my stock manifold I should notice some extra get up and go.

  11. Been talking to my mechanic he suggested sticking with a  carb setup. We are going to machine the mild cam, port the heads, fit extractors and a double barrel carb, he has a harris carb he reckons will go well.  we are not having any luck finding a better intake manifold anywhere in NZ. So will stick with factory manifold until we can find a better one . ive given up on the idea of EFI on this car .Next old car I get will have it already fitted. My car always starts pretty easily even when cold or if I havnt used it for a couple of weeks its just pretty hohum power wise . I mostly plod around driving it but it will be cool to put my foot down and feel some g forces  all within the speed limit of course, :badgrin:

    • Like 1
  12. my previous ride was an EJ with a 186 ,had extractors and holley 350 carb with auto choke could never get it to run right even after two os mechanics tuned it .I would never have  another holley. I did have a webber on a mk3 Cortina 1600 that was pretty good.

  13. its got a fairly standard Stromberg carb.

    engine was reborred slightly larger, new pistons, rings, bearings etc  a total recon.it all runs fine I just want to know if I can improve it with efi  as its a daily driver and what that entails etc

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