HumberSS

So I just got an 01 Fielder as a daily, it's got the mighty 1zz-fe and manual box. It's at a spritely 282k, but I have noticed it's a bit jerky under hard acceleration and tbh I would have thought it would return better than 8l/100km. Thinking I will do plugs and air filter, but wondering if anyone has any insight into these and what might be causing the jerky? Maybe MAF, or coils??

Chur.

Always impressed with your metalworking skills, super tidy work.

21 hours ago, Bearded Baldy said:

I will just add. Flanges. Everywhere you can fit them. 

Good idea. It will be a cunt if I don't anyway.

On 22/04/2023 at 07:46, Roman said:

There's no point in a 4-2-1 on a V8, and a 4-1 doesn't achieve the same scavenging effect as a 4 cyl engine.

A 4 cyl motor has an evenly spaced 4-3-2-1 (or whatever) firing order.

But the v8 firing order means there isnt an even spacing. Which is what gives it that V8 sound rather than sounding like 2 4cyl motors. 
V8 is more like it fires in pairs quickly together, a gap, then pairs quickly together (shortly after each other) 

There's still benefit to having a tuned length runner though, you'll probably want them as long as is practical. 
One benefit of long primaries is that any difference in length between the pipes gets reduced as a % of overall pipe length.
 

Yeah I didn't really have much room to play with length wise so just couldn't get the runners as long as would be optimal, mostly owing to the engine set back.

4 hours ago, Tiger Tamer said:

I am no expert on exhaust design but have done a a few myself so I will just add my 2c worth.

I see you have already built your own 4 into 1 headers which is what i probably would have done . They are supposed to make the best overall power in a performance engine but I have read that 4 into 2 and then to one is better for torque. Of course the tube dia there is the most important. A large collector like you have done is good and I think going down to 2in would be ok to the mufflers. After the mufflers you can drop the dia of the exhaust down without hurting power as when the exhaust gases cool they don't need a large tail pipe, though adding another muffler in the tail pipe section is supposably restrictive. This mainly on what i have read and some of what i have done myself. 

When I restored my Tiger I replaced the 260 with a 5.0l (302) and increased the power output by about another 100hp. I made my own headers and to get it up and running used the old twin pipe exhaust that was on the car for the 260. I can't remember the size of the exhaust but I think it was about 1 1/2 in and had fairly normal mufflers on it, nothing loud. I bought some straight through glass pack 2in mufflers for it and redid the entire exhaust in 2in expecting a seat in the pants feel of extra power but didn't.  It does sound cool though. You are probably just wanting I nice V8 burble out the rear and no drone in the vehicle. Hopefully this is of some help.

Cheers TT

Thanks mate that's def helpful. Cool that you have a Tiger btw. I did consider a 4-2-1 design but wasn't sure on primary lengths etc and kinda just ended up going 4-1 for ease. Although not much is easy about building headers. I put a separate thread up in the tech section and kpr said glass pack straight throughs were also the jam. I am just after a nice burnle, definitely nothing offensive or loud. I think between what the two of you have said I'm getting a good picture of the direction I'll head. 

26 minutes ago, kpr said:

looking at your thread you have something like below.  and are thinking of dropping smaller after the 2.5" collector?

 

This is what i was meaning. angle straight down to 2" or so  where all 4 pipes collect.    The big straight through is key to making it work.  think of the exhaust ending after them.   what you do after isn't so important.  long as the pipe size is big enough not  restrict airflow.   merging into a single 2.5" probably fine in your case.   but you cant make it too big. just makes it harder to cut the noise down.   all the power is in the headers and the section before the first reso's

 

 

 

 

Cool so from your above description you are saying drop it down to 2" out of the collector then straight into some nice big resonators, then from there onwards I can proceed to merge into a 2.5" single and big chambered muffler at the back? That sounds like a pretty good plan. Should I run flexi joints after the headers/before the resonators?

13 hours ago, kpr said:

run the biggest glass pack straight through muffler /resos  you can fit for the  first mufflers.  put the chambered ones at the back

sizes yeh you can drop down smaller, but need to do it at the merge.   then go back out kinda like a megaphone setup.  if you do it right and place  said above mufflers in right place.  will gain  power off the bottom. 

 

Thanks mate, what do you mean by drop down smaller at the merge? My thinking is that this is essentially 2 x 1.7l n/a 100hp engines side by side, so thinking that 2.5" is a lot of pipe for that...

My worker is building up a 12a to sell, he has a few engines lying about and is a very capable engine builder... His 350hp s1 rx7 convinced me of that! Anyway can see what his plan is re timing to complete? 

So I am starting to work my way down the list on my V8 Dyna build, having now finished the headers I'm wanting to know thoughts on designing a good exhaust system for it. I've built the headers using 34mm or 1-3/8" tubing, which essentially matched the port sizes, and these go into a 2.5" collector. I chose the collector size as A) I had some bits of 2.5" pipe, and it felt about right in terms of cross-sectional area. 

The thing to keep in mind is, although physically the largest engine on the planet, is cubic capacity is way small at 3.4L. it will likely not exceed about 150kw/200hp ish either. Im neither want a droning/raspy POS nor do I want to oversize and lose power. I actually want it fairly quite, but want to maximize the ponies available..

My thinking at this stage is in order to maintain exhaust velocity I need to drop the diameter down to 1.75-2" right out of the collector. My next thought, is owing to space, I'd like to go straight into a (reasonably large) offset in/out chambered muffler on each bank right away. I'm not really sure if that's a good idea though? Often mufflers are further back but I wonder if that's to improve muffling rather than exhaust velocity?? I'm also wondering if pipe diameter is still a bit large? Anyway, I'd then like to come out the back of the mufflers and merge into a single 2.25-2.5" pipe and continue out the back to another muffler at the back with a droopy tip to reduce projected sound. I don't want it whisper quite, but very 'mild mannered'. Think something like a factory poverty spec v8 ss commy. I had actually considered getting a factory system off something and chopping it up to suit, but think that would be a headache..

Love to understand people's thoughts here. 

Churr.

On 16/04/2023 at 12:40, Arelde said:

Yep ... probably paid too much but it will hold it's price once it looks pretty again.

I would have brought it back if I had the cash and shed space. It was a very easy old car to live with, I probably put 20thou km on it in the 5 or so years I owned it. Surprisingly good on gas too.

Can people jump on my discussion thread with thoughts re exhausts. It's not on the immediate list but I at least want to start planning. Baring in mind this is a 3.4l v8. So 1.7l per bank, my thinking is anything that made a warm 1600 breath would be about right. My preference would be a 2 into 1 system as I don't want it loud or raspy.

My thoughts at this stage is to drop down to 2" out of the collector then go into a big chambered muffler on each bank, then merge into a single 2.5" and another muffler at the back.  I do wonder if my pipe diameters are still a bit too large though? Could go 1-3/4 into 2-1/4?

Anyone who's got an opinion here would be greatly appreciated.

12 hours ago, kicker said:

It's clever marketing and technically true, the vehicle does not emit anything. If it said Zero Emissions then they'd be heading into VW territory.

Still no ragrets owning mine, can buy a lot of 2t oil with the savings.

Yeah same. No one is kidding themselves but once you have experienced the cost savings, and not stopping at the gas station, it's very hard to go back. I also like paying for my 'fuel' monthly.. They make sense purely from an economic perspective, I am certainly not virtue signalling and waxing about the environmental factor, it's just nice having a giggle at dumb cunts wasting money on gassing up some shitty daily that no one cares about, defending combustion at all costs driving some slow, soulless POS when the leaf is a way nicer drive and much quicker than anything equivalent too... and still a kind of soulless POS.... You learn to love them for what they are. BuTwAtDoYoUdOwitHtHeBatTeRies???

15 hours ago, Arelde said:

The old girl is heading to the Very Far North.   Hopefully I will be taking her out to some of the classic car shows after a coat of paint and a bit of TLC.

Nice! You brought?

8 hours ago, cubastreet said:

Would much prefer a van. What's the price and battery %?

https://www.trademe.co.nz/a/motors/cars/nissan/listing/4054530350 open to negotiation of course

On 24/03/2023 at 16:50, cubastreet said:

$2k + shipping.

I got a shipping quote last year Yokohama to wellington and that was about $1600. All the inspection fees are meant to add up to about $1k so auto hub doesn't sound bad.

Looking for an EV so it'll be new. Hopefully the 3.5k used EV rebate will cover most of the import costs, except GST of course.

Just buy my leaf it's for sale. Job done

I love this build on YouTube, really simple

+1 for the ts3, man those are one phenomenal engine.

Sorry to post in your build thread, but no discussion thread... What engine is in this? I might have a suitable rad I've pulled from my dyna you could have..

4 hours ago, cletus said:

That's a miniscule plug gap, is that what it's meant to be?

 

 

I agree. Smash those plug gaps open to get it sparking properly...

Throw some nice big rads on the bottom of inlet runners where it meets the base flanges for your final print, just to reduce the stress razors there.

This is such a cool build, one of my favourite cars too. 

13 minutes ago, MRWEST said:

EZ30R with boost aint that reliable in factory form the rods are tiny, mate had one about 250-260kw atw and bent a rod ended up building a built bottom end,

Another mates got a 500kw one might be a bit much for a leone though 

Even in N/A form though they sound epic and can get not bad kw atw with an exhaust and headers and a ecu especially in a small car like that, and in n/a reliable as!

+1 for the na, it will be heaps in this thing and sound rad

1 hour ago, Leone said:

Its also about the width as well, but ill certainly look into it  

Would say width similar to an ej, check skid factory vid is a good overview

The EZ30 will also run to 400hp on boost without mods, is pretty cheap and has a 6 speed box. Also has the right badge... Ticking some boxes? It's also only about 40mm longer than the 4cylinder motor.