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HumberSS

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Posts posted by HumberSS

  1. On 29/03/2023 at 15:48, flyingbrick said:

    yeah have been looking at one very similar on trademe, comes with bottle etc.

    both orange anyway... if that matters.

    How did you get on? Take a look at the hugong welders from Duroweld in NP, I've had a good run from my 180a DC and they were well priced. He might have a used machine too. Good place to buy consumables etc as well. 

    • Thanks 1
  2. 14 hours ago, ThePog said:

    Half an hour of limibashing will have the same effect

    Have done 3 weeks of that.. at least when it's on the limiter you can't hear the weird no oil noises.

    Just got new plugs, synthetic oil and air and oil filters. Here's hoping.h

    Fuck me half good oil has gotten expensive!!

  3. 58 minutes ago, ThePog said:

    Dunno, changed the plugs and it stopped using oil. Either typical toyota self healing behavior or our lord and saviour hast bestowed a miracle upon his unworthy servant or some shit.

    I read somewhere they gum up the rings and start chewing oil. Gonna try some of the snake oil from repco and see if it fixes it.

  4. Cool. How do.you fix it eating oil then?... Think I got tucked.

    39 minutes ago, ThePog said:

    Ha thats basically us, that wish has done 260k and was a bit missy and burned a bit of oil, new plugs and all of that has cleared up.

     

  5. On 31/03/2023 at 13:26, Geophy said:

    Dont know if this is right place to post this but does anyone know about Record no75 vices? Is the neighbours that I am restoring for him was his dads. Always thought records were blue but this seems to be red. Is that normal or is it had the dulux ovehaul at some point? Cheers.

    received_191830236927367.thumb.jpeg.f4945053a74e833db94682bb1b4a016e.jpeg

    received_229956382903970.thumb.jpeg.b9eb9e2ed40b405140d9180c8beaee96.jpeg

    Also last one I finished for @Dogwatch dad last week. Was his dads one so about 50 years old I understand. Dont have a before picture but was all seized up, went a bit hard on the paint so a bit too smooth looking but you live and learn.

    received_1164467054241738.thumb.jpeg.cb545e89d0c84385161a0f9b62174aca.jpeg

     

    I have a no.75 that I have restored too. Has the offset jaws, rotating base and pipe bender. It's my favourite vice by a long shot. I put alloy jaws in as the steels were gone. Very nice vice.

    • Like 3
  6. 8 hours ago, dmulally said:

    Technically too wide but there is a really nice space between cross members behind the cab it would be perfect for. 

    Which leads me to the next question...who signs off truck mod certs? 

    FG8.jpg

    Jamieson motors in Taranaki do both car and truck cert it would seem, as they are certing a friend's belts on a camper which is on cof. 

    • Thanks 1
  7. So I just got an 01 Fielder as a daily, it's got the mighty 1zz-fe and manual box. It's at a spritely 282k, but I have noticed it's a bit jerky under hard acceleration and tbh I would have thought it would return better than 8l/100km. Thinking I will do plugs and air filter, but wondering if anyone has any insight into these and what might be causing the jerky? Maybe MAF, or coils??

    Chur.

  8. On 22/04/2023 at 07:46, Roman said:

    There's no point in a 4-2-1 on a V8, and a 4-1 doesn't achieve the same scavenging effect as a 4 cyl engine.

    A 4 cyl motor has an evenly spaced 4-3-2-1 (or whatever) firing order.

    But the v8 firing order means there isnt an even spacing. Which is what gives it that V8 sound rather than sounding like 2 4cyl motors. 
    V8 is more like it fires in pairs quickly together, a gap, then pairs quickly together (shortly after each other) 

    There's still benefit to having a tuned length runner though, you'll probably want them as long as is practical. 
    One benefit of long primaries is that any difference in length between the pipes gets reduced as a % of overall pipe length.
     

    Yeah I didn't really have much room to play with length wise so just couldn't get the runners as long as would be optimal, mostly owing to the engine set back.

  9. 4 hours ago, Tiger Tamer said:

    I am no expert on exhaust design but have done a a few myself so I will just add my 2c worth.

    I see you have already built your own 4 into 1 headers which is what i probably would have done . They are supposed to make the best overall power in a performance engine but I have read that 4 into 2 and then to one is better for torque. Of course the tube dia there is the most important. A large collector like you have done is good and I think going down to 2in would be ok to the mufflers. After the mufflers you can drop the dia of the exhaust down without hurting power as when the exhaust gases cool they don't need a large tail pipe, though adding another muffler in the tail pipe section is supposably restrictive. This mainly on what i have read and some of what i have done myself. 

    When I restored my Tiger I replaced the 260 with a 5.0l (302) and increased the power output by about another 100hp. I made my own headers and to get it up and running used the old twin pipe exhaust that was on the car for the 260. I can't remember the size of the exhaust but I think it was about 1 1/2 in and had fairly normal mufflers on it, nothing loud. I bought some straight through glass pack 2in mufflers for it and redid the entire exhaust in 2in expecting a seat in the pants feel of extra power but didn't.  It does sound cool though. You are probably just wanting I nice V8 burble out the rear and no drone in the vehicle. Hopefully this is of some help.

    Cheers TT

    Thanks mate that's def helpful. Cool that you have a Tiger btw. I did consider a 4-2-1 design but wasn't sure on primary lengths etc and kinda just ended up going 4-1 for ease. Although not much is easy about building headers. I put a separate thread up in the tech section and kpr said glass pack straight throughs were also the jam. I am just after a nice burnle, definitely nothing offensive or loud. I think between what the two of you have said I'm getting a good picture of the direction I'll head. 

  10. 26 minutes ago, kpr said:

    looking at your thread you have something like below.  and are thinking of dropping smaller after the 2.5" collector?

    m1.png.7c27b779e53df1950620e21cca822c1e.png

     

    This is what i was meaning. angle straight down to 2" or so  where all 4 pipes collect.    The big straight through is key to making it work.  think of the exhaust ending after them.   what you do after isn't so important.  long as the pipe size is big enough not  restrict airflow.   merging into a single 2.5" probably fine in your case.   but you cant make it too big. just makes it harder to cut the noise down.   all the power is in the headers and the section before the first reso's m2.png.7b25320038af6b81de1e5e0ecedc7d24.png

     

     

     

     

    Cool so from your above description you are saying drop it down to 2" out of the collector then straight into some nice big resonators, then from there onwards I can proceed to merge into a 2.5" single and big chambered muffler at the back? That sounds like a pretty good plan. Should I run flexi joints after the headers/before the resonators?

  11. 13 hours ago, kpr said:

    run the biggest glass pack straight through muffler /resos  you can fit for the  first mufflers.  put the chambered ones at the back

    sizes yeh you can drop down smaller, but need to do it at the merge.   then go back out kinda like a megaphone setup.  if you do it right and place  said above mufflers in right place.  will gain  power off the bottom. 

     

    Thanks mate, what do you mean by drop down smaller at the merge? My thinking is that this is essentially 2 x 1.7l n/a 100hp engines side by side, so thinking that 2.5" is a lot of pipe for that...

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