nobangmycar

 

What do you mean by the master switch? Is that some kind of button that locks out all the electric windows so your kids don't commit suicide?

You can't have a situation where you've got voltage on one side of the closed switch, a good connection through the switch and yet no voltage on the other side.

That's right.  It is the switch.  To be clear the switch consists of silicone pad on a PCB....  There is no connection through any of the switches.  It's not the wiring through the door, there is always power at the switch.  By master I mean the drivers door switch that has all doors on it, that's what we called them at PartsWorld and partmaster where I used to work.  Old switches don't work at all once they stop.

FE3 in an Escort? Shit yeah!

Ha! I have just spent half an hour reading your thread on your alfas! How funny is that?! Fantasically frustrating reading!

I have tested the voltage. What happens is: one day everything is operating fine, next day you push the switch and nothing happens. No relay flick, no motor trying to work, nothing. All of a sudden there is power to switch, but no power to motor on other side of switch or to any other door. Replace switch and problem goes away. No other door switch works until you replace the master. Windows that don't work goes awesome with a heater permanently on hot!!

Maybe I should put an alfa badge on the front?

Correct. Climate control is all electronic and part of heater box. No tap and cable here! Will try exterior sensor and see how I go. It is plugged in, but could be faulty. As for windows, will try lubing to reduce load required to move them. I have stripped switches and everything is fine. Nothing damaged and continuity where there needs to be. Got me stuffed!

My old '78 Subaru doesn't have these issues!

Ha! Yeah no worries. The blower resistors were poked as well, but that was the easy part!

Not really old school, but I'm at the end of my rope! My 1990 N14 pulsar keeps going through master window switches. 3 in 3 weeks! They just fail completely, stick new one in and good for a week, then nothing again! On closer inspection nothing is toasted on the inside of the switch, but nothing will operate. Power is good, earth is good.

Also heater (climate control) only works on full hot and won't adjust. I have replaced heater control unit, but not interior or exterior sensor.

Anyone got ideas? Call for an exorcism of this horrible little cheaply built rubbish?!

The old Mt. Cargill road from North East Valley over to Waitati in Dunedin.  Only takes like 15 minutes, but is tarmac, twisty, a little steep in places, and quite testing.  Lots of locked fronts, opposite lock, and unbalanced exits.  Primo if you like a challenge. 

Have we all forgotten the best car ever made?!  Isuzu Piazza!!

I will be about, and I don't work Sunday!  Perfect.  Will only be in the old 'lux, the Subaru is still in the many of pieces.

Very bloody cool.  You make me want to keep mine!

I've been following your build for a while now, and have just read through the entire thing again.  I am amazed at your build quality and your use of all the custom parts you have made up with the CNC machines and mills and things, this is seriously cool.  I wish I could replicate the skill and quality of your build in my Subaru, but I just don't have the funds, contacts, or experience.

Freakin' top build Matt, once in a lifetime type shit! Awesome.

TOW OLDSCHOOL WITH OLDSCHOOL!  That's what I do!  (Also for sale!)

I can also help if you need

Piss.  I'm off to pick up the DL on the 19th, and Fire Service Honours Night also.  With any luck it will bucket down and I'll be back at a reasonable time on Sunday...

Cheers for your help fellas.  I think I will just spend the not much dollars and get a genuine thermostat.  Thanks for your help styles, I am constantly frustrated by not being in the parts game any more with access to all the catalogues!!!

Good idea, could do one Sunday soon?  My Subie is off the road, but my old lux is still truckin'!

My Hilux runs a little colder than I would like on the gauge, so I took a look at the thermostat on Monday and it has a brand new aftermarket 82deg one in there.  TT240-180.  I never trust aftermarket thermostats in Toyotas, and I have had a bad run with aftermarket thermostats in the past in all sorts of applications.  The genuine thermostat listed @ Toyota is apparently 82/95... does this refer to 2 temperatures?  I worked @ Partmaster for years and understand part numbers, but never struck this in a thermostat.  Some sort of dual stage thermo?  Anyone else had this problem?

Put in two seals when you do it, and you can get a neat rubber boot kit from Swift Automotive in Christchurch.  Ring Larry, he's the man!

Let me know what you think...   any help and opinions would be greatly appreciated.  I want to end up with whitewall flappers, low, roof rack, bit of primer... that kind of thing. Can anyone photoshop me something?

Now that I have driven my Subaru round for a month or two it needs some attention.  I repowered it 6 months ago with a dry sleeve EA71 after the original was so stuffed it would barely run.  When I did this I slapped it together well enough to drive it and get a WOF, but now I am going to strip it down and put it together with a little more care... Here goes...

This car was bought new in Invercargill by my great uncle and aunty in 1978, and through a series of careful family members with dry storage I have the car 36 years later.  It has 108,000 original kilometres on the clock and this definitely shows.

The other night I drove it home out of the storage shed:

Everything went well, started on half a crank...  About a month ago I welded in a new piece on the A pillar after it was falling apart with rust:

Also the front valance is a few bit rough:

In the next week or two, the engine will come out and I will clean up rust around battery box, and replace clutch with one that isn't 40 years old.  Have a few wee other issues to fix too...  Put a new set of rockers on a wee while ago and now I have one real tight valve, so need to see what I have done there.  Will do all this with engine on the floor.  Aiming to have it done and at nats next year.  Seems achieveable.  Just don't get much time between 2 kids in the house, work, and being a volunteer fire fighter, but will have to MAKE time now I think.

Oh, and while it is out...   NEW WEBER!

I have had 5 of these... LOVING what you have done with it.  I am normally a hater of painted brightwork on English cars, but with those hubcaps black and the roof rack, this is seriously cool.  Really impressed with the overall look man, loving the damage on the guard with the black bumpers and yet somehow it still looks tidy.   Thumbs up, hope to see it in the flesh at nats sometime!

Fantastic!  Looks great!  I love those not quite perfect cars that surface every now and then that have obviously been loved by someone for the last 30+ years.  Very cool, can't wait to see what you do with it.  IMO these have the coolest interiors of all time!

My vote is English... Minor, or 1100.  Something like that.  I have recently been impressed by 80's Civic/CRX engines, EW5 and ZC.  Easy to come by and cheap. I have a complete AT Civic Si with Twin Cam EFI ZC and gearbox that owes me very little, and at 125ish hp I am sure it would push an 1100 or Maxi etc along quite nicely.

Freakin' awesome example mate!  I have an AF CR-X that I am building while keeping it driving.  I also have an AT Si parts car if you need anything...  Not an F1, but does have the Twin Cam ZC.  Still runs mint, I still use it for paddock days.

Hey Fellas,

SSCC are running a public track day out at Teretonga on the 25th of this month (only a week or two away) and I thought a few of you might be interested?  I am thinking of taking the CR-X for a skid, but don't want to be the loser kid there by himself.  Who's keen?

Also Crank-Up weekend in Edendale that same weekend if anyone likes vintage machinery and motors...

Sign in is from 11.30am onwards Saturday 25th January 2014.  You need usual fire extinguisher, overalls, and helmet.  $60 per driver.