samsnz

ive re done the earth and im pretty positive (ha) its not the battery as its less than 3 months old. and its pretty big for the job it does. ill look into main power and switch/signal next. i just dont get why it turns over first pop when its dead cold, but as soon as the engine is warm starter says no.

i think i can hear it trying to click on and off with the key but cant tell if its engaging correctly or if its stuck or what

my old corona running 3t wont turn over after the engine is hot. it starts first pop from cold but once the engine has been running the car wont turn over again.

i recently got the starter motor fully refit professionally but before long the problem began to occur again.

i have checked and cleaned all the terminals for the starter and wired a bigger earth for my battery in case the draw is higher now also but to no avail.

the dash lights dim when the key is turned so i think my ignition is working ok

i also have an after market immobilizer installed which seems to cut and restore the ignition ok but i cant be sure really.

i am leaning towards the immobilzer side of things as its the only variable i cant really be sure is working correctly.

any ideas?

i thought that was rising rate. as opposed to fixed but i think i get what u mean

maybe i got my terms wrong. website says it rises at 1:1 ratio

guess  what arrive right as i posted.

this.


//oldschool.co.nz/index.php?/topic/46777-sams-ae70-project-4age-16v/

had my fujitsubo manifold arrive today. will need some love at some stage but it will definitely do the trick for now. picked up and aeromotive rising rate pressure reg for the walbro external pump that i am still waiting for but should arrive soon!

hopefully have an ecu and loom coming my way from you lovely oldschoolers. got a full set of gaskets the other day too just to freshen things up a bit.





//oldschool.co.nz/index.php?/topic/46777-sams-ae70-project-4age-16v/ get at me!

nice! ill give it a jam.


when no ones watching....

yea for sure man. is there any way to check its function while its off th car?

yea general consensus on here and the google reccommends keeping it so itll stay on

after a decent google i think ima keep it. is there a way to know if it will function or not? i pulled it off and when depressed the diaphragm seems to hold vaccuum fine but beyond giving it a clean up i have no idea if it will work or not?

o right all good then ha hoping they do the trick

noooooooo did i snipe them from u?

i had no real opinion about it either way ive just heard a lot of bagging on it. but in equal measure the stuff that i have read and dyno graphs ive seen on standard 4age with T-VIS it definately seems to help

discussion thread for my project ae70 4age drop.

fire away

I've already sourced my 16v. goin mainly for an easy swap and because im using all the standard ae70 drivetrain.

also can you remove T-VIS using standard ecu without problems?

discussion thread //oldschool.co.nz/index.php?/topic/46777-sams-ae70-project-4age-16v/

got some pics of the engine and what not. picked upa rear drive 16v big port from trademe, new rings, new big ends, new steel head gasket and new cambelt.

few things missing but overall is clean AF and so far not having a lot of trouble sourcing parts.









also some fujistsubos that are yet to arrive


 

ok here we go,

1982 flat front AE70 currently running 3a-u with webers and lumpy cam. rings have pretty well gone so its time for a 4age.

here is the car as is currently:




link to discussion thread here: //oldschool.co.nz/index.php?/topic/46777-sams-ae70-project-4age-16v/

 

ok off it comes it would seem

does anyone know if there is any real advantage/disadvantage to having or removing T-VIS? i know about the air velocity thing at low RPM but does it really make any huge difference?

sweet bro thanks for that!

does anyone know if 3a engine mounts will fit to 4Age?

sry i used a50 just to illustrate i had an a series bellhousing.

i hadnt thought about the FWD vs RWD tax actually thats a really good point