advokit

@maxted - cheers man. Build is taking way longer than I had anticipated but at least I've had the time to do it all right.Cant wait to hear what it sounds like with the trumpets, should be maximum doort for sure.

A bit more progress this week. LSD turned up a few weeks back but it had a broken shim, turns out the guy I purchased it off had two so he sent me the other one and I returned the original. The second one that turned up was a step up again, its still only a 1-way but its a full blown Cusco MZ version with some pretty awesome looking clutch plates. Searching around the web these are a pretty solid LSD so I am super stoked as I landed it for a fraction of the new RRP of close to $2000. 

So on arrival I stripped the LSD down and checked the condition of the clutch plates - they are pretty much brand new! I also checked the what the lockup was set to as the plates can be stacked in different configurations. Currently set to 100% lockup which I am assuming should be good for some Dorifto action. Next on the list is to send the LSD and my diff carrier up to Steely Gears and get him to set up with new bearings, solid pinion spacer etc. 

I have been looking out for velocity stacks for some time now. I looked pretty seriously at the SQ engineering ones as he is one of the few that do a solution longer than the standard 50-75mm long that are largely available. A couple of weeks ago I spotted a local company that does velocity stacks less the flange at 90mm long. I dropped in and had a looks, turns out they are correct diameter for the 20v and seeing as I am about to get a run of Ali laser cut why not add 4x 20v ITB flanges to the order. Good friend owes me a favour so ill get him to Tig the stacks onto the flanges and they will be good to go!

Test fit of trumpets. Looks pretty good to me.

Also while some mates were in Japan recently I got them to pick me up an HKB 25mm Boss kit spacer. Now my steering wheel wont be jamming me in the leg.

Great to see this went into good hands. It lived in my mates workshop for an extended period while Andrew was potentially looking at 1UZFE conversion.

Looking forward to seeing how it ends up.

Hey man, sorry for the late reply. I think you may be able to buy them new, I got mine from Motorfix in Japan 2nd hand. I looked at gutting the internals but not sure if that gives you the correct brake bias.

The other options I considered were an adjustable brake bias (wilwood or similar) in the engine bay or trying to find an aerly 90s Toyota (non ABS) that may fit in its place.

I would be interested to hear how you got on.

So its been a while, lack of funds due to having both kids in day care has not been helping. Luckily one goes off to school in a month so that should help the cause.

So I now have a SQ water line rear bypass for the 20v, I know just need to make up a front/top outlet to replace the feed that used to go from the head to the water pump.

Also removed the 20v oil filter riser (uses 4/7afe oil filter union) so that the oil filter has better clearance.

Ended up selling my first pair of extractors as I managed to pick up a set that had the correct flange for my exhaust.

Also sold my OEM LSD as an opportunity to pick up a Cusco on popped up. Cusco RS 1-Way, if I am lucky it may be one of the ones that you can change between 1 or 2 way. Fingers crossed.

Picking up a Flywheel next week, so that and the top outlet are the last two parts before engine goes in for wiring. Should be getting a bonus this month also so may be able to get diff bearings, etc sorted and start putting diff back together finally.

This thing has to at least be running summer, watch this space.

+1 on removing the TVIS, you will sacrifice low end and gain nothing from removing it.

Good to see some more progress man! Good luck with the Cert and would be awesome if you made it down this way sometime, not that there is much progress at my end but its slowly getting there.

So its summer and time to get stuck into this thing again finally. Motor is now at home so I can spend more time mocking up waterlines etc in my spare time.

Stripped the loom back ready to remove unnecessary wiring and then splice into the AE85 loom. A mate is going to mod the ECU for me so that it can trigger the COP as wasted spark which means I can do away with the dizzy cap/rotor to save space.

Removed front and rear water outlets and rear thermostat ready to figure out a waterline path. Im still not entirely decided on a solution but I am now leaning towards running a bypass block on the back of the head, blocked of back outlet and external thermostat + modified front water neck. I still want to run a heater and the external is not only cheap but also easy to access. Also I think this solution with less piping means less potential failure points too.

Mocked up Thermostat and connection to back of water pump.

Also fitted up my extractors which are 16v ones so will require a couple of mods to make it bolt on, otherwise I am pretty happy with them. Might just give them a clean up and HPC coating?

Still figuring out how I am going to mount the COPs yet. Ideally id like to make something myself but may have to bite the bullet and buy a mounting plate..... I have seen a nut welded to the rocker cover but then again I have seen this kind of weld fail as well.

Havent had funds to sort out diff etc yet, so in the meantime I am working on what I can without spending any dollars. With some luck the engine should be in to start wiring it up in the next few weeks which is at least some good progress.

Looks good man! Ive got a white Notchback Trueno with Starsharks as well.

Managed to spend a bit more time downstairs over the last few weeks! More progress.

Got rid of the unknown brand rear strut brace and picked up a Cusco one that matches the front one. Mounted it all up.

Also picked up some flat bar and made some adapters for the Bride to mount up to the NZKW rails. Sits mint. Would be ideal if I could get it lower but then I would have sliders - will do for now. 

Was supposed to have this thing going for a track day this October........ My how the time flies. Will be ordering diff parts soon once that is done will ship it to my mates workshop so it can be on the hoist for the fiddly shit.

Not quite where I had hoped to be this time last year, but hey progress is progress none the less.

Finally picked up my BC Gold rear springs on Friday. 4.5Kg to go with the adjusters, fitted up pretty good and nice and captive with the Bilsteins.

Looks like ill be able to wind up and down about 20mm or so if required which is pretty much perfect.

Hey there, they look very similar to my Celica MA45 rear calipers. They could also be TE71 rear calipers. If you are interested in going a different way I could be keen on buying these off you.

Ok so long time no update..... With winter kicking in and being on one income due to our baby girl there hasnt been too much done on the build in the last couple of months.

So the front calipers are all done - I need to source some decent brake pads that fit both the MX73 fronts and the MA45 rears. Ideally a street/track pad if I can find one, any suggestions would be greatly appreciated. I do have some Bendix Metal ones for the rear but it looks like the dont make them anymore.

Anyway my Bride recliner finally arrived from Japan so I have currently mocked it up in place to get a feel for where it needs to sit.

The NZKW rails I scored dont line up so I need to track down the adapters or look at making up some steel that bolts the two together. Anyone had experience bolting Bride Brix or older Bride bolt pattern to the NZKW rails?

So now its saving the coin to get the following:

- Rear wheel bearings

- T3 Diff rebuild kit

- Diff bearings

- Pay someone to set backlash etc

Then I can fit the diff and move to getting the Engine and box in there for a test fit. Happy days.

Another minor update - managed to score another set of MX73 front struts, hubs and calipers for a trade of some parts.

So I sent the calipers away to my man and he has re-kitted them so they are like new. Ill keep the other set as spares along the the struts incase I manage to bend or brake one at some stage.

Hopefully can get the calipers back on over the weekend and then move the car around so the back end can get some love.

.

Awesome, Id be interested to hear from anyone that has bought calipers from these guys as that would be an ideal was to go.

Hey man, car looks awesome with the SSRs on it now. What tyres are you running on the 7s? Trying to find something Certable that doesn't look like it came from a tractor.

Not a huge update as I spent the weekend removing rust from the Mrs car. I did manage to get out the my mates workshop and go over some more plans for my motor.

Ill just leave this here.

oh yeh, i grabbed that.  kinda surprised it was there a month after car arrived.  doing similar thing, using ae86 kouki rear with ma45 brakes but into a ke74.  then shorten the ma45 rear for the ke26 with te71 brakes.

 

ma45 and ae86/te71 have the same 60mm diameter locator size.   not sure what you mean?

 

It would be more like a 1/2-1/2 way.  works in both directions but doesn't lock up like a ramping 2way.

It looks like T3 sell the www.weirperformance.com maxgrip lsd rebuild parts so you may like to check the original website out too.

Yeah, I was optimistic that the diff would be there. I actually hoping it may have been an MA46 but no luck.... an F series would have been mint. The MA45 rear brake conversion is meant to be really good, Steve Wilcock uses it in his Rally car and reckons that his Wilwood upgrade was better but not $$$ wise compared.

Im starting to think the rotors I have are S14 Silvia non turbo ones. From what I can see they are exactly the same size so that would explain the centre bore issue. Genuine rotors are rare as rocking horse shit new so I think ill buy a pair of S14ones for $80 and make an adapter/locator.

Ok cool. It seems they lock up-ish ok as there are guys drifting with them after shimming them. I did see the weir ones and wondered if it was the same. Maybe one day when I have more $$$ I can grab a TRD LSD.

ah thats where the ma45 shaft went!  was searching all the cars around it hoping it'd been put out of the way heh.

Re ma45 rear disks..  are you making adaptors to space the 86 calipers out and sideways?  im curious how that goes aye.

Also the oem lsd aren't 1 or 1.5way. That only applies to the ramping style lsd. The oem lsd with spring loaded clutch are at a fixed load and don't lock up once they start slipping. I'd suggest to check the break away torque and constant torque to see if it's in working condition. ie put the axles in it, clamp one still and rig something up on the other axle to turn it with a torque wrench.

Yeah I grabbed it as the front half will mate up to the AE86 Rear half I have. The back half is potentially available though. I actually went looking for the diff but I was way too late.

No I have MA45 Backing plates, Calipers and Discs which all bolt on just the disc needs a locator made up. I do also have a set of AE86 calipers and Silvia discs up for sale that are similar to what you described but I decided to run with the larger rear caliper.

Oh ok as far as I was aware they were essentially a 1 way which locked under accel but very partially under deccel so more like a 1.25 way. My plan is to get a clutch kit out of T3 to rebuild it and shim it out to be more agressive.

Good luck with the Cert man. I reckon if that guy wont Cert it then take it elsewhere, I have seen many AE86/85 with Cert that have not had brake lines moved so it has to be his opinion.

Im looking forward to meeting up when my one is going and getting some dual skid action going haha.

RCAs finally arrived. So spent Friday night putting all the front suspension back in and finally got the car back down onto the ground.

Finally rolled the car out for the afternoon and cleaned out the shed to prepare for the next stage.

Just have to sell off a few spare bits now so I can afford to buy my rear bearing kit.

So next on the list:

- Buy Rear Bearings

- Re-assemble Diff, Axles etc.

- Make Hub spacers for MA45 Rotors

- Get all Callipers Re-built

- Fit Brakes

- Fit Diff to Car

After that I can start focussing on Driveline. Happy days.

All good man. The whole build is a little unconventional as its all about being on a pretty small budget.

Hit me if you need info, always happy to help.

@hachirokuGTV - Hey man. No special tricks involved as far as fitting goes, the KE70 booster bolts straight in and the the AE101/111 master bolts straight up. (just make sure its non ABS). I actually think mine was AE101 from memory.

You will need to make up some new brake lines though, I just grabbed some long ones from pick a part and bent them up. I then took cut the end off and got a brake place to reflare the end. (they didnt even charge me).

The KE70 booster is quite a bit smaller, apparently guys run them when they do 1UZ conversions to gain more space. Im in the same line of thinking as you, I want longer trumpets as 75mm isnt the ideal length - ive heard 100-110mm is the sweet spot. 

I cant tell you which KE70 it was from but im guessing an early one? I bought mine off Trademe.

Let me know if you need anymore info.

Picture-less update. I could finally get access to the container that had my engine in it today!!!

One was mine and one was a mates but its been so long we had to spend a bit of time working out which was which. Finally got it out and onto and engine stand for a clean up.  I really wanted to get the 1NZ coils in place so I spent the afternoon filing and sanding them down so that they would fit the 20v spark plug tubes.

Also spent some time pulling off unnecessary crap like dizzy cap, rear thermostat housing etc. Its currently sitting in my mates workshop but I think I may bring it home next weekend so I can test fit it in the car.