hmmmnz

this was mine

earlier model 89 i think,

machined speed triple swing arm, and later zxr usd's on the front, and koso clocks,  a gilera dna headlight, zx6 radiator,

custom made stainless exhaust and a titanium fmf can,  was pretty fun to ride,

i had an old zxr750 that i street fightered,

i dubbed it the mobile torture rack, 

the 7's had the hashest rides,  handled awesomely but was too rough for me,

why not share said pro info??

i'd be interested to see if it matches up with what i know

you could try a burgman 125 manual/wiring diagram, the engines are neigh on identical, hopefully the wiring isnt too different either,

generally suzuki is quite good at keeping things similar

right front end done,
surprisingly easy,
im using an aprilia pegaso 650 complete front end,
and using the bmw master for the breaks, and the aprilia head race bearings,
funnily enough i had all the bearings to hand (i have a pegaso as well)
which was part of the reason i went for this usd set up,
all the mods i had to do was shorten the stem on the pegaso triples,
make a new set of head lamp brackets, and widen the headrace bearing cover over to fit the pegaso bearings, and make a new mount for the clocks,
by far and away the easiest usd conversion ive done,

any way pics









my headlight brackets are just 2 exhaust clamps per side and a steel plate


clocks, almost the same outlook



next is either seat and rear subframe or rear wheel
 

they would have to take you to court, they can't instantly ban you especially if you have a motorcycle licence of some description,

it would be on them then to prove that the bike was over 2kw, and more than 49cc, i dont think you would lose your licence even then,

as its more a certification/unregistered issue than doing double the speed limit

right long time no reply,

well havn't done a huge amount,

rear wheel has been machined then un-machined, then left,

i'll get round to it at some stage,

i did the exhaust, im not entirely happy with it so will probably change it at some point to bring it closer to the frame, and have a more level run,  but i am happy with the noise, its quiet at idle but makes an awesome noise at full whack,

any way pics:

video

yeah, thats all for now, front end next

who has a ldv in new zealand??  they are a dime a dozen over here in the uk, but i never saw one in nz,

project is coming along nicely,

So much goodness

One of my faves was a 'six stroke' engine that some clever chappy built

 

It's basically a four stroke engine that has had it's head replaced with an upside down two stroke so instead of valves it has a short stroke piston that opens and closes intake and exhaust ports.

 

 

 

Some cool vids here

http://www.sixstroke.com/sr500_burnout.htm

 

I like how he does a burnout to demonstrate the extra torque the engine makes

good to see he's back at it, i had a couple of his vids on youtube, and the guys who were trying to steal the design were, threatening me with legal action for naming beare as the inventor and refusing to take down the videos, they managed to convince youtube to remove a couple of vids, but i just kept uploading them

yeah i had a pair on my vf1000

they were awesooooome,  best cheapest cans ive ever bought,  emgo i think they were,

fuck ill say, that was just a ridiculous way of doing it,

doesnt have to be carb cleaner, wd40 or braklean, or any other areosol,

if there is a leak on one of the seals the revs will change,

if i remember these little beggers have reed valves,  might want to check the state of those,

if one of the reeds petals is cracked that might almost give you the symptoms your describing,

might be worth ordering a set just as a matter of course,

by counter shaft are you meaning output shaft??  the one the front sprocket is attached to,

i think the americans like to call them countershafts,

any way if its leaked, it'll continue to do so, especially a 2 stroke, the gear box isnt under pressure,

so if its leaking, the seal is poked,

nothing to do with you over filling the bike

hopefully its not like a hayabusa, i had to split the crank cases to change one, (it wont be, having vertically split cases, as opposed to a 4 stroke horizontal ones)

depending on where its leaking from, it may just be the oring that has failed

when you have the seal out, check that the shaft spacer hasnt caused it to leak and that the little o-ring is replaced as well, (sits behind the spacer)

notorious for falling out of sync,

got a set of balancers??synrocnizers or what ever people are calling them,

i used to find with my little fzr id have to do it atleast once a month,

also, valve clearances, no one ever fucken does them on bikes, fuck knows why, its such an important job especially on little

high revving 250's and 400's  when you are revving through to 20krpm before hitting the limiter you want to make sure every thing is

running nice,

also its a cunt of a design, its shim under bucket, so you have to take the measurements on all the valves

record them down, then whip out the cams, remove the buckets, then read/measure the shims and replace them with new ones the right size,

etc etc, and then put it all back together, re-measure because, 9 times out of 10 there will be a valve with no clearance and you'll have to guess the size of the replacement shim,

but worth doing,  and almost worth pulling out the engine to do it,

which means its nice and easy to replace the plugs and do the oil, clean the carbs, and sync them by eye (1mm drill bit is handy)

and copper grease all the bolts

but im sure you dont really want to be doing all that shit while the suns out

hmmm i had a similar carb on my kh125, and that would piss fuel out randomly,

whats the state of the float needle and its seat??

some times you just suck a bit of shit into the bowl and it gets stuck on the seat,

not letting the float needle to fully close off, bowl over fills, and out she comes,

if your needle has a wee seat line it might cause the same problem

^^^^  like the britten motorbike,  every part with atleast 2 uses

awesome stuff

its been done before as well, but the problem being is the angle of the spokes from the hub, when you lace them to the center it ends up bending the spokes, because the amount of spoke that is set into the hub part,

ill drop off my hub to be "un-machined" which will impress my machinist no end

ive tryed before just to re-lace one, and failed badly, they just dont lace the same, even got a couple of bike shops in taupo to try and they couldnt do it, ended sending it over to a guy in the uk to do, (bmw dont fix, they try and get you to buy a new complete wheel)

ive tryed to get him to do this rim, but he won't do it with an off set,

best option/cheapest, is just to get the hub back to standard, and then make a spacer for the brake shoes to fit the hub and then fill the 20mm gap that it will leave,

shouldnt be too hard,

and if i ever dent or fuck the rim, i wont have to pay again for it to be laced offset

bmw uses cross laced rims,  basically the spokes go to the outside of the rim, not the center like a traditional rim, is so you can have a tubeless tire on,

bmw x lace rims

traditionaly laced rim

the bmw rims are notoriously hard to even lace as standard, let alone with an off set,  no one in the uk was willing to try it, and i only found 2 guys who would lace a bmw xlace rim

ok a bit of a pictureless update,

well got the wheel machined,  sweet i think,....

nope, just because its been done before doesnt mean its the best way 

basically the hub fits perfectly, but the side effect to that is that the rim hits the swingarm,

what i didnt read is that the rim has to be laced with an off set, and there is basically only 1 place in the world that is willing to and has success of doing this with bmw cross laced rims,  woodys wheel works in the states, which would mean sending the wheel over

50 quid,  getting them to do the work 250 quid,  new spokes 50 quid, postage back 50 quid,  and if i wanted a 18" rim on instead of te 17" thats another 100 quid

so 500 quid total!!!!   hmmmm thats almost the price i paid for the bike, so just isnt going to happen,

my new plan is space the shoes out and make a filler for the gap, 

im not sure why this hasnt been done before,??

i cant really see a problem with it,   i guess people just follow some one elses example and go from there,

im just pissed that i machined the hub, with out fully thinking things through,   atleast i can machine a spacer to bring it back to standard so not all is lost

have you tryed a bit of bike tube and some glue to repair your old ones??  used to be the oldschool method,  might do until your new ones turn up

funny stuff, ive spoken to him numerous times at the urenui pub   (worked on a mates 63 falcon down there, so ended up at the end of each day)  pretty interesting dude, some really cool old guys in urenui, there is a guy who hand beats panels for old american cars and trucks as well, 

yeah because we bikers dont have enough to watch out for,

i wouldnt even put the stupid thing on my head

couldnt tell ya, the guy who was there couldnt speak a word of english and my bulgarian is on the rusty side of non-existant

i would assume if you turned up with a sack of money you could do what ever you wanted,  some of the trucks looked in pretty good nick, and i dare say with out too much effort you could get one running,  plenty of spares around

found this cool place when i was cruising around bulgaria,  full of ex-soviet military trucks 

never hurts puling the head on a 2 stroke, that way you get to see the condition of the piston, rings and barrel,

you'll be able to re-use all the gaskets