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Posted

Have had a x force stainless exhaust on my land cruiser for 7 years now,3 months in was a slight leak at mid pipe flange,re tightening bolts sorted it.

Welds and quality good especially for price

 

 

 

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Posted
1 hour ago, jessemk2 said:

Have had a x force stainless exhaust on my land cruiser for 7 years now,3 months in was a slight leak at mid pipe flange,re tightening bolts sorted it.

Welds and quality good especially for price

 

 

 

That's good to hear, as I ordered the exhaust yesterday, lols.

I have a trade account with Autobend, so can get SS resonators fairly cheap to add in if needs be. I can also make up some tip inserts for stealth morning departures if I have too I guess, twin 100mm tips will probably be quite rowdy.

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Posted

My dad has one of these, he had it reflashed by some mobile tuner guy. I think he used Prestige/Llama facilities when he was in Wellington. Something around $1k from memory.

Everything was stock and apparently a pretty big jump in power, I drove it and really liked it. I can ask for more details if needed.

Main thing I don't get is how its all over by around 5500-6k rpm, really feels like it should be a more rev happy car. Not sure if it's a limitation of the turbo size, or choked by factory intake/exhaust?

Posted
21 minutes ago, ~Slideways~ said:

My dad has one of these, he had it reflashed by some mobile tuner guy. I think he used Prestige/Llama facilities when he was in Wellington. Something around $1k from memory.

Everything was stock and apparently a pretty big jump in power, I drove it and really liked it. I can ask for more details if needed.

Main thing I don't get is how its all over by around 5500-6k rpm, really feels like it should be a more rev happy car. Not sure if it's a limitation of the turbo size, or choked by factory intake/exhaust?

Yeh I need to start looking into where to get it tuned, I assume dyno tuning is still preferable to generic re-flashing? I really don't know much about diddling with factory ECUs. 

The being torquey really low down and not revving is a bit odd for such a small motor, but the turbos are tiny so assume that's the reason. Its sort of like driving a sporty diesel, pulls harder in higher gears/more load = more boost kinda thing. The factory intake/exhausts on the sport don't seem to be overly restrictive, seem to be quite a few people making 170-180hp with factory gear and just a re-tune. Somehow I didn't discover this until after I had ordered the intake/exhaust, lols.

 

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Posted
38 minutes ago, Vintage Grumble said:

While removing the old system I had to LOL at the end of the cat, the outside of this bit of pipe was only around 40mm so the ID must be fucking tiny, which makes the 65mm exhaust behind it with twin 100mm tips even more ridiculous, ha.

Cat delete time?

Posted
10 minutes ago, xsspeed said:

or if you need cat - https://www.hks-power.co.jp/en/product_db/exhaust/db/20356

edit: ah looks like cat is in downpipe and theres a load of straight downpipes available

Also with all this capacity its obviously time for bigger turbo

From memory the HKS cat is like $2k, a little too spicy for me. I was thinking about this one at less than half the price, but still a bit spicy: https://www.redlineperformance.co.nz/product/xforce-suzuki-swift-sport-zc33-14l-2017-down-pipe/?srsltid=AfmBOoq1AcVkkw0rUYTPH2Mxq2fLOMMaEKfcJvsMXdikBleyrD1rnp8O

Changing the end of the factory cat wouldn't be overly hard TBH, making the pipe bit after it would probably be harder. 

  • 3 weeks later...
  • 2 weeks later...
Posted

Got a bit of time to fit parts.

Ripped the front off,

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HKS CHONK VS OEM intercooler,

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CHONK in place,

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Trim this thing to fit the CHONK,

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Reason for weirdly shaped CHONK, my car has the "safety" package, and the radar mount rudely intrudes on intercooler room. HKS using every available MM,

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All ready for the bumper to go back on,

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The sales blurb said "some processing of the bumper is required" and the instructions are quite vague, but what they meant is cut fucken heaps out of the bottom of the bumper until it fits. Its very tight in a couple of spots.

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I couldn't help myself, and went full homo, and used the stencil. I even raised the number plate up 25mm to get full air flow through the CHONK, lolololols.

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Then I got stuck into the CAT/down pipe install. The CAT part is much smaller, but has way bigger holes in the CAT stuff, so probably does less CAT'ing, but must flow better. The inlet and outlet looks like it should flow way better.

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I gave the inlet a bit of a match port, the OEM one is actually larger than the flange on the turbo, but the new one was slightly smaller, so matched that up.

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I did my first ever purge weld to finish off adding in the extra resonator, also if I'm honest it was the first time I've ever actually used filler rod, ha. Came out OK, learned a lot.

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Now the new CAT/down pipe makes the car even louder (I had read online that this happens so was expecting it) but the extra resonator must have brought it back to about where it was pre CAT install which is a bit too loud still, so I will add in another resonator in the first section of straight pipe (in the pic above, its the bit after the cross member and before the first flange) and see how it sounds then.

I went for a hoon with the 4" tips taken off and it made no noticeable difference to loudness.

On my 3rd hoon after changing everything, I got an engine check light and a big flashing warning saying the cruise control system needs checking (probably because I had taken the sensor off to cut the cross brace) so I slapped a china OBD2 dongle on the car, strangely it had no code for the cruise sensor, but did have a couple for oxy sensors which I was expecting due to cat change. I cleared the codes and it fixed all the lights and warning, so I'll see how that goes. 

I've been sending the intake air temp to my phone, and its never been more than 3 deg over ambient, so the CHONK seems to be working well.

Time to start looking for a tuner I guess.

Regards, VG. 

 

 

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Posted
17 minutes ago, johnnyfive said:

I need to come check this thing out some time. 

What is this cruise sensor?

The little box in the bumper is called a "millimeter wave radar" or something silly and helps with the auto brake and adaptive cruse control, but it also has a few cameras or some such up in the windscreen that do something similar, it also has auto high beams so guess the cameras help with that. It loves to beep at me when I zoom up behind cars turning off roundabouts, but hasn't put the brakes on by itself yet.

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