Popular Post MRT1TRD Posted January 19 Author Popular Post Posted January 19 Found this at the VCC parts shed on Sunday 5 points to whoever guesses it’s origin so take a perfectly good two piece plastic spoiler, remove 100mm here and there, solder it back together then apply to vehicle with some bolts. An easy small project These should of had such a thing when they went to rubber bumpers, RBs may have been more desirable and not just the ugly sister 11 Quote
MRT1TRD Posted February 4 Author Posted February 4 I don’t recommend the spax kit. I now understand why it was “new only test fitted” shocks knock on upwards movement (I spent hours diagnosing, it is in the shock) the upper mount plate placed the shock just touching the floor (thick under seal but still) once the rubber bush sagged a little it will be hard up reshaping the rear passengers ass then the lower mount was just a nut and bolt which if it got slightly loose it would work the spring base a new one I replaced the lower mount with a correct pair of mounts I had lying around driving it seemed much the same possibly a little harder than the good cond lever action shocks, the noise would be annoying if I did lots of city driving, but engine noise quickly overwhelmed it 2 1 Quote
MRT1TRD Posted February 6 Author Posted February 6 So for its 6mth anniversary it received a new distributor and valve on top of booster the valve caused a too lean issue with the carbs (still is abit lean) but have been readjusted since I got rid of my brake whistle the distributor was 1/5th of the price of the car but you get that, hopefully is reliable. So far I have it tuned to 3deg at idle and 38 at 5k+ and it seems more happy to rev to 5k than before will need a better cam and some head lightening to get some more rpm out of it, is there any recommendations for camshafts? I have heard mixed reviews about Kelford 6 Quote
MRT1TRD Posted February 7 Author Posted February 7 I have been struggling to get this fitted for months, glad I went with a regular size seat not the next size up as it’s a tight fit, now I’m not looking forward to have to take it in a out many times to fit the next lot of things 6 Quote
MRT1TRD Posted February 8 Author Posted February 8 Pick a part find overflow tank, drilled a hole to fit the grommet for the lower mount a clamp for the top, and it fits just right, nope I had to remove 5mm off each fan blade but hopefully it is more efficient with the bottle acting as a cowl (temp is fine) But with radiator now full to the top it now leaks from the rad cap slightly ( change one thing require another car life) 4 Quote
MRT1TRD Posted February 10 Author Posted February 10 Best thing to do two days before a big trip is to pull the front end apart to replace pads, rotors, seals, pistons, bearings. I still want to upgrade the front brakes but they needed love for now, might go faster if the pads aren’t dragging 8 Quote
MRT1TRD Posted February 13 Author Posted February 13 Made it to Timaru, I have two spare weekend tickets for southern classic for someone who pretends to be my crew, no issues for the first day though went to SCA for a new rad cap and fuel cap and windshield cleaner . I am officially the slowest car out there 8 Quote
Popular Post MRT1TRD Posted February 16 Author Popular Post Posted February 16 What a great weekend, just to hang out at the southern classic let alone to get to join in and drive such a nice track, the new series “regularity trial” with the goal of getting some classic road cars, or work in progress racing cars or things too valuable to scratch out on the track to be enjoyed in a timed trial. I left Chch early Friday morning with the car full of supplies, got to Timaru around 9am to fill the fuel (lasted all weekend) got two practice runs in before the heavy rains, we had two rounds each sat and sun, I was the slowest out there averaging 1.40/39 but by the third round I went 1.34 and I think I went faster on round 4 so I didn’t do that well keeping my dial time so I came 5th overall out of 10 with four dnf. I need more fuel from the carbs to get more performance so maybe a Weber is required to get more tune ability 11 Quote
MRT1TRD Posted February 22 Author Posted February 22 If you dig a hole eventually you’ll find water, if you remove enough parts off a classic car you’ll find rust. The floors has had some repairs that I knew about and they were nicely painted rustkill grey on top and under seal black below. But after removing most of the interior I found that I needed to remove some of the factory sound deadening on the passenger side and all on the driver side (some of the passenger side was blistering above the exhaust for some reason) Passenger side attacked and treated and also inside the C pillars but I’m still working on drivers side which will need some metal repairs 8 Quote
MRT1TRD Posted March 1 Author Posted March 1 Removed the seat and more sound deadening to reveal some more rust to work on, there is some more hideous areas in the front that I’m trying to ignore that have been patched from below but left the rust on top but the rust kill did hinder further growth, I did consider importing a new floor pan but maybe at A later date 6 Quote
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