Toyota Levin AE111 Discussion

[chris r]

You probably already know but k24 have balance shafts in the oil pump and don't like revs as much as. Can swap to the k20 oil pump and loose some rotating mass and go to steel sump which may be easier to make work with gearbag and subframe etc. 

I'll dig some part numbers up for the pump 

[shrike]

21 minutes ago, chris r said:

You probably already know but k24 have balance shafts in the oil pump and don't like revs as much as. Can swap to the k20 oil pump and loose some rotating mass and go to steel sump which may be easier to make work with gearbag and subframe etc. 

I'll dig some part numbers up for the pump 

Yes fully aware of the K20 pump, need to use the baffle, chain and bolts etc and block a drain 

Oil pump needs notching as well

P/Ns are

Oil pump 15100-PRB-A01
Oil pump chain 13441-PCX-004
Oil Pump Chain Tensioner 13450-PNA-004
Oil pump chain guide 13460-PNC-004
Oil pump guide bolts 90004-PNA-000 (x2)
Oil pump bolts
1x 95701-080-7508
1x 95701-080-5008
1x 95701-060-2508
Baffle 11221-PNC-000
Baffle Bolts 95701-060-1408 (x6)
Oil return bolt 90004-PE2-005 or might be M8 x 1.25 1" bolt and washer

Good call out though  

[chris r]

Amayama probably the cheapest bet if they have everything in stock 

[shrike]

26 minutes ago, chris r said:

Amayama probably the cheapest bet if they have everything in stock 

Might have been where I got all the partnumbers :p 

[shrike]

Notes for me if I need to go for a Honda CRV gearbox, Honda Axles are big enough to shorten and respline to suit GT4 CV joints

Honda 5 speed

CRV Half shaft 44500-SCV-A00

CRV Front Left 44306-S9A-N00

CRV Front Right 44305-S9A-N00

Can all be brought new but id probably hit a wrecker up

Current rear diff is T series from what I can find I have 2 GT4 diffs and I may have an AE115 Rear diff in my spares as well

T = 6.7" te71/72, ae86, ae95, many rwd corona/celica/carina, 90's 4wd wagon, gt4

 

[Roman]

I've heard that the GT4 "T series" isnt quite same as any of the other T series things. 

Cant remember what was different, but the torsen center doesnt work in a regular T series rear for whatever reason. 

 

[shrike]

19 minutes ago, Roman said:

I've heard that the GT4 "T series" isnt quite same as any of the other T series things. 

Cant remember what was different, but the torsen center doesnt work in a regular T series rear for whatever reason. 

 

Yeah I think your right, its ok there isn't any off the shelf gearset that would be low enough so id be looking custom anyway

The CRV transfer case gear would probably be easier to machine so I think if I go down the CRV gearbox route thats what ill have to do, or change rear diffs

There is a C4 Corvette rear diff thats close to the idea ratio haha bu im not super keen to change diffs at this stage

[shrike]

Anyone want to help me math (Edit Jag X type X400 rear diff may be a close rear ratio)

If I swap to an auto Transfer case on the manual gearbox i could run a 35 sidewall front tyre and a 40 sidewall rear to align the difference in diff ratio?

Front would be 0.4km faster then the rear at 9000rpm and 0.2km at 8000rpm and 0.1km at 3000rpm

Auto Transfer
Final Drive	Transfer Gear	Transfer Ratio	Rear Diff Ratio		Difference
4.389	0.393	0.904	2.928	4.566	0.1766
4.562	0.393	0.904	2.928	4.746	0.1836
4.764	0.393	0.904	2.928	4.956	0.1917
5.062	0.393	0.904	2.928	5.266	0.2037

[bigfoot]

I did hear on a podcast recently about the jag diff being stronger and easier to find than whatever honda diff gets used

[shrike]

3 hours ago, bigfoot said:

I did hear on a podcast recently about the jag diff being stronger and easier to find than whatever honda diff gets used

Currently no factory LSD option for it and aftermarket is quite expensive but if the states start using them that may change (place in the states has plans to make/is making an LSD)

There is two in a local wrecker may go have a look when I get a chance as I want to grab a crv box and axles etc anyway (maybe spare transfer case)

Is a couple of these in Wreckers in NZ as well

Changing diff mounts isn't a big issue but not ideal, and im not sure about the rear shafts

Need to do research on if they can be modified to fit

Jag axles are

28spline CV into hub

24spline cv onto axles shaft

GT4 are 26spline

CRV are 23 Spline

The Honda guys are running them upside down

Im curious on what the axles shaft diameter is

[mjrstar]

I have no idea on the technical spec of that crv transfer case, and of course it's small as it minus the centre diff, and would just have a simple bevel gear (like an early evo vs an evo4+)but is there info on max torque those things can handle. As it looks like it'd be using tiny bearings.

 

Also is there much dimensional difference of axle centre line vs crank centre line, the angle makes it look like you'd mount the engine further back using the honda arrangement,  but this might just be an optical illusion.

[shrike]

12 minutes ago, mjrstar said:

I have no idea on the technical spec of that crv transfer case, and of course it's small as it minus the centre diff, and would just have a simple bevel gear (like an early evo vs an evo4+)but is there info on max torque those things can handle. As it looks like it'd be using tiny bearings.

 

Also is there much dimensional difference of axle centre line vs crank centre line, the angle makes it look like you'd mount the engine further back using the honda arrangement,  but this might just be an optical illusion.

I was emailing the guys at Drag cartel April last year  

"T case 500-600 HP range need to start upgrading internals and outer case"

https://dragcartel.com/collections/all-wheel-drive/products/awd-k-series-gear-combo-and-case

https://dragcartel.com/collections/all-wheel-drive/products/awd-k-series-combo-special

Not a cheap exercise however, think there is a couple of other options as well

TBH id probably have a spare and if I break one id dial down the power until I could save up for a fully built setup

Id really like to stick with the Eseries box if I can (wonders if I should try track down a 2arfe again lol)

This is what you need to convert a normal honda K series 5 or 6 speed to AWD

[nobody]

I tried to fit a k20/24 to an evo 4-6 gearbox but the transfer majorly hit the block, even with some selective grinding to the block it would never actually be able to be put together with a clutch etc, and from playing with the GT4 and evo gearbox conversions in Mazda's the evo transfer is a lot more offset than the GT4 transfer giving more room for the engine

[Roman]

Get with the times @fuel, current oldschool projects on this forum:
Restoring JZX100s 
Showing off Barn Find Kanye West CDs

[shrike]

3 hours ago, nobody said:

I tried to fit a k20/24 to an evo 4-6 gearbox but the transfer majorly hit the block, even with some selective grinding to the block it would never actually be able to be put together with a clutch etc, and from playing with the GT4 and evo gearbox conversions in Mazda's the evo transfer is a lot more offset than the GT4 transfer giving more room for the engine

Looks like my options then are (in no particular order)

• 7afe to get it moving and use my existing parts to get some seat time (can turbo/4a head etc as I go)
• Covert the Celica gearbox to Fwd and give up on AWD (off the shelf adapter kit available for E series boxes to K24)
• CRV gearbox plus the extra bits to use K24
• 2ARFE?
• See what options I have to go back to close to stock
• Part out
• Burn it with fire 🔥

[shrike]

  

3 hours ago, fuel said:

Do you plan on street driving it at all, or just wanting to turn around in a car park without it hopping and skipping away? You really need some kind of differential or slip between the front and rear axles and locking it to be full time AWD will definitely introduce some drivability issues. 

 

*edit * just realised I've been responding within a build thread post whoops - though figured this should be in other projects section given its (lack of) age?

Street driving in NZ may be possible depending on where it ends up modification wise and if I can get it certed etc

Street driving in Australia is a no go as ill never be able to get it registered here with a cage and I'd need it stock to get it complied

Rego is on hold but im pretty much consigned to it being track only I am also more keen on just competing with myself then being super competitive against other people

I can always use the K24 on something else long term or onsell/hold it etc and I haven't brought too many K24 specific parts

So I still have options

Edit: its also incredibly hard not being there to do things or work on the car/ see progress, if I was to do this again I think getting the AE115 I got as spares id just have kept my original 4age made the car AWD and look as stock as possible for that. 

Enjoyed the car and then done mods as I went along, id very much like to be in a state I can enjoy the car again

[Rhyscar]

2GR bolts up to (roughly speaking, minor mods needed) E-series GT4 box. Guys in jamaca have a lot of fun with them. Not necessarily the 4cyl screamer you might be hoping for, but cheap, easy to do and an easy 300+ hp before you boost it. 

 

 

 

[Stu]

2GR with 4-71 or 6-71 blower on top!

... I'll see myself out

[Rhyscar]

49 minutes ago, Stu said:

2GR with 4-71 or 6-71 blower on top!

... I'll see myself out

Not the silliest idea ever @Stu. Lotus Evora with the 2gr V6 came factory with a Eaton M120 looking supercharger.. no doubt it was too small for any serious performance, but would be an easy upgrade (if you could fit it under the bonnet). 

 

Looks like around 400hp is possible with a simple supercharger install. More than enough for a small car. 

[Honda Ass Dragger]

Toyota G16E and box your sorted - else just just build ya 4age 200kw will be plenty fast