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Posted
11 hours ago, sheepers said:

 boost controller (it now has nothing, just inlet pressure plumbed straight to the gates) and the BOVs vent to atmosphere rather than being plumbed back and both the recerc holes in the intake have been welded up. 

 

Is the boost controller you removed a standalone unit, rather than integrated with the ecu.

https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/81684-no-boost-signal-at-power-fc/

 

I don't think any leak post throttle body would be an issue without causing major idle dramas, even a tiny amount of air will send revs to the moon with an engine with no load.

I still think you're on the right path with the engine not getting all the info with regards to airflow. 

Have you got and indication on how rich it is at idle and how lean on boost?

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Posted
8 hours ago, shrike said:

Yes but if its a Map based power FC you have to modify the wiring to the Mafs to the Map sensors. If this was done in the original cars loom and youve replaced that loom with a factory loom that change may not have occurred 

but if youve already checked that wiring then that maybe I am on the wrong track 

If its a Maf based power FC then its probably fine and rules that out, im assuming exhaust/intake is all the same as well? 

Sorry if im not making sense or giving you a red herring, honesty keen to see this running mint for you :)

Its odd if everything is pretty much the same, not something stupid like dodgy fuel filter or some shits been picked up from the tank and the injectors need a clean 

Could be a couple of different things ie mafs are making it rich at idle and the injectors/fuel filter being dirty making it lean on boost 

Hes running the MAF power FC that came off the running engine. I though it was the original PFC from the black car which had the map sensors.

 

Maybe its something simple like the bov's partially open at idle and letting out a heap of metered air. Can you take the vac lines off them and give it a run?

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Posted
17 minutes ago, sheepers said:

so,

were im at now is thusly,

i dont have the parts to plumb back the waste gates in to the intake, and the MAFs dont like this one bit.

it keeps randomly changing , like i got it to idle by using the throttle cable adjustment as a idle adjustment. it would idle nicely and drive, just. but then by the time id driven 200m or so it then wouldnt idle again and was missing like fuck.

in an unrelated incident the injectors stopped firing, then once id jiggled the loom around they came back to life. 

yes, your're right.

its time to throw the MAFs in the bin and rewire the engine and buy a link to run it properly. 

so thats what im going to do. i still have to figure out what link im going to use. im going to have idle speed control, boost control and some other shit like boost by gear and whatever else crap i haven't thought of yet. 

oh, and most importantly its going to run off MAP.

who wants to buy two 300ZX MAFs? only slightly yelled at, HMU.

As annoy as it is at least once the links in it'll all be done right and you wont have any issues touch wood

I mentioned in a previous post about the factory IAT sensor in the plenum not being the best for a variety of reasons.

May be worth putting a better IAT sensor in somewhere that makes more sense :) if your going to the effort of rewiring and a link 

Any plans to run DBW long term? 

I feel your frustration

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Posted
1 hour ago, sheepers said:

 

i dont have the parts to plumb back the waste gates in to the intake, and the MAFs dont like this one bit.

I didn't know rb26 had egr. You learn something every day.

 

If you are concerned with leaking bov's you can of course blank them off for testing purposes.

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Posted

When I was young and still stupid I had a GTST and instead of spunking for a proper blow off valve I made a little flap contraption that blocked the factory valve under vacuum to allow it to idle.

It made very great whooshing noises and brought all the bitches. 

I'm pretty sure removing it directly affected how much pussy I now get. 

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Posted
5 hours ago, sheepers said:

Fuck MAF sensors and fuck power FCs.

20250725_120814.jpg

#IN THE BIN

Hopefully new wiring isn't too tedious 

Posted

PowerFC is cool for period correctness for a GTR.

It was always such a flex to have the hand controller mounted in the car. 

But booooyyyyy can they be a pain in the arse hahaha

Posted

yea, ive got a bunch of new letrical stuff for it and im about half way through re-wiring the bastard thing. 

when i get back from swapmeat ill post an update.

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Posted
1 hour ago, sheepers said:

i haven't put it in yet, but its going to go somewhere in the vicinity of the old one.

One of the comments that comes up is the ITB plenum IAT sensor gets bad heat soak 

Advice is having the sensor on the intercooler pipe going into the plenum is a better location for a more accurate measurement.

Though tbh a faster reading sensor will be better then factory as well 

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