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Posted
19 minutes ago, Lord Gruntfuttock said:

Not even sure what that is, or what trans you have, C6, FMX?
Just as long as it's suitable... 

 

 

dexron III   normal tranny fluid for old trans. 

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Posted

Yeah its a big ol C6.

I have been quite surprised at how easy it is to service, having never opened one up before. I even managed to catch most of the oil in a container, with the remainder going up my sleeve, so didn't make a mess on the floor.

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  • 1 month later...
Posted

"I also dropped the kids at school the other day and managed a reverse parallel park, in a spot that didn’t look big enough, right outside the gate, in one swing.
That got me some comments from the nearby moms" 

I've so many questions. 

How big is your butt/small is your bathroom that you need to parallel park next to the toilet? 

Your bathroom door is a gate?  

You seem happy to let mums watch you while you're doing a jobie so I'm not surprised they are talking! 

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Posted

as a professional push broken car back in the shed every dayer

 

heavy ratchet strap around the framing of the shed or small boat winch to the same makes it a lot easier to move it back in. Dream is atv winch

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Posted
3 hours ago, tortron said:

as a professional push broken car back in the shed every dayer

 

heavy ratchet strap around the framing of the shed or small boat winch to the same makes it a lot easier to move it back in. Dream is atv winch

Yeah there’s a shelving unit in the way so not really anything to tie onto unfortunately. Might have to try looping something from the hoist posts back

Posted

What is the gearbox C6 or something else?

I've always dreaded having issues with the Mercury as it has a cruisomatic, but I don't want to upgrade to a C6.

  • 3 weeks later...
Posted

I'm a big fan of the brunox epoxy /rust convertor primer as a base for car shit. Unsure what's a quick and easy product to squier over the top though 

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Posted

+1 for Durapox or anything 2 part epoxy. 

I find POR15 really only works on rusty crap that is entirely rusty. If it's too clean it peels off eventually and chalks up. 

 

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Posted

first step is to go buy yourself some good bbq cleaner and give the engine bay a good scrub with that. only thing that seems to break down grease degreaser just sits on the top and does nothing. 

cheap and easy way to do engine bay is the white knight black enamel from bunnings as its a ppg product 

did my galaxie underside with it and still mint all these years later.

have also found if using brunox underneath paint it can cause the paint to be patchy as the brunox adds a different sheen   

Posted
On 09/10/2025 at 22:47, piazzanoob said:

 

cheap and easy way to do engine bay is the white knight black enamel from bunnings as its a ppg product 

 

This. 

Everything I paint myself is done with this stuff 

 

Obviously there is better paint but it's easy to use, doesn't kill you, cheap, not a lot of effort required 

 

Getting it as clean as possible, and leaving it for ages before you work on it again would be my tips - I try to leave it for atleast a week to harden properly 

Posted
On 09/10/2025 at 08:27, Lord Gruntfuttock said:

Durepox 

On 09/10/2025 at 10:25, dmulally said:

+1 for Durapox or anything 2 part epoxy. 

On 09/10/2025 at 18:25, Beaver said:

+2 for durepox

Do you guys use this as a 1-stage system, like just the Durepox and no top coat?

I've just been to Resene and the lady in there seemed to think it is a primer, and technically porous, so should have a top-coat, technically.

Durepox feels like the better approach to half arsing it, but it will start to get spendy(er) if I have to do a top-coat over it too.

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