Uber Kris V8 taxi wagon

[chris r]

A mate towed me to his place and we flux cored it together enough not to leak 

 

[chris r]

Was fairly thin after a date with the flappy wheel 

 

After a couple of hours remember how not to tig weld it's one piece again 

And a bit of bright zinc so I can see what pinhole leaks I left behind 

 

[chris r]

Good news is the head/head gasket don't seem to be leaking 

The not unexpected news is the pipe is still leaking. Could well be the o ring that goes into the thermostat housing. Or the o ring and my welding 

After a bunch of digging a found a new heater pipe to replace the one I've welded up. Figured I'd bite the bullet and order the rest of the gaskets, valve and head bolts I need. The whole lot ended up cheaper shipped than just the head gasket set here in nz 

[chris r]

Looks like I can re power the musso with a 202 and traumatic 

[chris r]

Not quite overnight parts from Estonia but pretty quick. 

The old while I'm paying for freight may as well get my monies worth kicked in 

The coolant tube I welded that's still leaking, Head set, head bolts, stem seals and some valves. 

Now I can continue to ignore the intake valve leak and just fix the coolant leak 

[chris r]

. 

[chris r]

7 hours ago, chris r said:

Now I can continue to ignore the intake valve leak and the coolant leak 

Of course the cross referencing from various Mercedes catalogues would bite me, some sprinters had a 2.9 5 cyl which ssangyong used and stamped their part number on. 

Figured the sprinter heater pipe would work as it looked the same in the diagram 

The bend is nearly in the right place. The mounting bracket is in the correct position though which is nice. 

The stock heater hose is too short to bypass the core and reach the sprinter hose which is annoying.

Seeing as welding the pipe the last two times was a such a success I welded it again and refitted it with a new o ring and chucked it back in.

Will see what heater hose I can find in a bargain bin at supercheap that's the right size and make it work 

[chris r]

It'll come as no surprise there is a new pinhole in the pipe. But what is surprising is its not where I've welded it. Working this long weekend so it'll sit in the work carpark and think about what it's done. 

[shrike]

27 minutes ago, chris r said:

It'll come as no surprise there is a new pinhole in the pipe. But what is surprising is its not where I've welded it. Working this long weekend so it'll sit in the work carpark and think about what it's done. 

Have you considered just using some metal bog or JB weld type fix?

[chris r]

10 hours ago, shrike said:

Have you considered just using some metal bog or JB weld type fix?

Yes I have but it takes longer to cure than I have patience for 

Realistically the pipe belongs in the bin as it's internally corroded and trying to weld or repair it is a waste of time. But where is the fun in doing things correctly the first or second time. 

I just need to not be at work when supercheap or ripco are open so I can find a hose that'll work with the new pipe

 

[tortron]

Must be a plumber on site to make one out of scrap copper pipe? 

[chris r]

1 hour ago, tortron said:

Must be a plumber on site to make one out of scrap copper pipe? 

Best I can find onsite is a few lengths of train track a 20 litre bucket of lube and some 150mm pvc ducting so nothing super handy. 

In saying that I might have some copper pipe and shit at home buried in the hoard 

[chris r]

Made it to supercheap before closing time and found a hose that looked like it was long enough to work. Part number came up as a 202 powered commodre heater hose so it'll be perfect for the 202 repower 

Will deal with changing it later 

[chris r]

Must have had that tube in and out too many times as this swap went super fast and only fumbled blindly twice before I found the hole 

Rubber grease was a good idea for sliding the hose on but it also meant the spring clamp wasn't strong enough to seal the hose. Chucked another hose clamp on its fixed for now.

Will need to find somewhere to do a stationary cooling system test for the final check 

[chris r]

No coolant smells so far which is good, the wiper self park seems to have fixed itself too which is a win. 

Ordered a socket/driver so I can actually unbolt the head. Hopefully that'll arrive this week. 

In further ignoring the intake valve leak I've got a lead on a gearbag too. Not quite a traumatic but tremec/BorgWarner  is close enough right? It I'll fit with the 202 for the re power 

[chris r]

Started pulling it apart again and everything was going too smoothly so I said as much and jinxed it

 

[chris r]

Turns out the spline sockets at supercheap are the same as triple square or xzn. 

Much puckering and safety squints what I loosened all of the head bolts 

Of course one rounded and it was one of the bolts that were recessed 

Shoved a rag in and lots of cutting oils and managed to drill the head off 

After about 4 hours of lapping the new valves (and putting the stiffer springs in to give it a better chance of holding) 

Moment of truth 

Time to attempt to get some sleep and I'll see how much has leaked out in the morning 

[cletus]

Was the valve bent/burnt ?

[tortron]

yeah, might want to roll them over the edge of something flat and see if one wiggles

[chris r]

I put the old intake valve in my drill and the neighbor reckoned it was bent. Will find something flat to check again. No burns or other sadness though 

Replaced both the intake and exhaust on no1 as I had it that far apart. 

Old and new next to each other 

The springs did feel soft but that was just squeezing them by hand and not properly measuring them