MichaelJFox Posted February 6 Share Posted February 6 As I said I wouldn't do, here's the build thread.. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tortron Posted February 6 Share Posted February 6 This is just the worst Congrats Looks like the sparkplugs have been kept well oiled 3 4 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lord Gruntfuttock Posted February 6 Share Posted February 6 Cool colour, should be easy engine to work on. There will be heeeaaaps of information on MGBarryforums... 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Indiana_Jones Posted February 6 Share Posted February 6 Awesome shit mate, get her all sorted. /giz to me when you're sick of it lol Will be fun to watch her come to life again. 4 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
locost_bryan Posted February 6 Share Posted February 6 Nice colour. Plenty of parts availability, can't see anything cracked from your pics. Replacing the old hoses should be easy. While you're waiting, check the electric fuel pump still works. Good luck! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MichaelJFox Posted February 6 Author Share Posted February 6 14 minutes ago, locost_bryan said: Nice colour. Plenty of parts availability, can't see anything cracked from your pics. Replacing the old hoses should be easy. While you're waiting, check the electric fuel pump still works. Good luck! Yeah, excellent point. I'm yet to put a battery to it (negative earth, and had two 6v batteries fitted factory) and have the magic Lucas blue smoke get released into the wild. I'm sure there's all sorts of fun to be had there. 4 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dmulally Posted February 6 Share Posted February 6 I recall those two batteries under the seat. What a great car. I owned one many years ago and it was built like a tank. Very easy to weld in any patches. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MRT1TRD Posted February 8 Share Posted February 8 Nice car, but that engine needs a lot of work, #4 cylinder is a different generation valve spring and keepers and probably valves, there looks like one of the valve seats looks like it is possibly moving, and lastly there's probably more coolant flow in a dry drag racing engine, I'd hate to see how blocked the radiator is. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MichaelJFox Posted February 8 Author Share Posted February 8 10 hours ago, MRT1TRD said: Nice car, but that engine needs a lot of work, #4 cylinder is a different generation valve spring and keepers and probably valves, there looks like one of the valve seats looks like it is possibly moving, and lastly there's probably more coolant flow in a dry drag racing engine, I'd hate to see how blocked the radiator is. I think I see what you're saying, the last two valve springs/keepers are the older Type "A" ones but the rest look like they could be "Type B" ones - that likely to cause any drama? How would one check the valve seats moving? And yeah the coolant passages look.. tasty will do what I can there. Let me know if I should start hunting for a long block instead. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MRT1TRD Posted February 8 Share Posted February 8 Ideally take it to the engine shop get them to do a clean and check for cracks, and once it's clean and the valves removed the seat can be checked. So these don't have seats originally but with different keepers it's had valve work before. On the pic of #4 combustion chamber between the valve and spark there's a line of rust dust that is possibly the valve seat moving but I can be wrong. If it is it's not much for a shop to cut/fit a larger seat. Block you can clean yourself but best results need to remove core plugs and water pump, and if was seized there maybe something else damaged that you have to disassemble the rest of the engine to find 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MichaelJFox Posted February 8 Author Share Posted February 8 32 minutes ago, MRT1TRD said: Ideally take it to the engine shop get them to do a clean and check for cracks, and once it's clean and the valves removed the seat can be checked. So these don't have seats originally but with different keepers it's had valve work before. On the pic of #4 combustion chamber between the valve and spark there's a line of rust dust that is possibly the valve seat moving but I can be wrong. If it is it's not much for a shop to cut/fit a larger seat. Block you can clean yourself but best results need to remove core plugs and water pump, and if was seized there maybe something else damaged that you have to disassemble the rest of the engine to find Thanks for that man, appreciate the insight. Plan was to take the head to a machine shop anyway, so I'll do whats mentioned above. If the block becomes a real headache a friend of a friend mentioned they have a good block in Wellington, so might have to start looking down that path. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MichaelJFox Posted February 12 Author Share Posted February 12 Alright so the cylinders do not want to budge. Had them sitting with the head off soaked in ATF for three weeks now probably. Was being pretty mean to them with a piece of wood and a literal sledge hammer at one point. If anyone knows of a motor for sale anywhere let me know 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sunbeam Posted February 12 Share Posted February 12 Try acetone with the atf. Otherwise take the crank out and bash the pistons with a steel drift. Wood absorbs too much power from the hammer. Sounds brutal, but the pistons and bores are already rooted anyway at this point. It’s a tractor engine so the marks should bore out for new oversized pistons with meat to spare. I had to use the agro method on a Fiat block to get a piston out. Moved pretty quick once the wooden drift was abandoned and didn’t even break a ring in the end. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tortron Posted February 12 Share Posted February 12 Apply heat till the atf heats up You will know it's hot enough when your eyes burn and it hurts to breathe 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tortron Posted February 12 Share Posted February 12 Here's a example of heat and rust stuck rings These ones made a ping when they came loose 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MRT1TRD Posted February 14 Share Posted February 14 I have a Morris 1622 engine that I have had running on a pallet 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
locost_bryan Posted February 14 Share Posted February 14 Twin crab Riley/MG version? 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MichaelJFox Posted February 15 Author Share Posted February 15 17 hours ago, MRT1TRD said: I have a Morris 1622 engine that I have had running on a pallet Are those the same lump, just smaller CC? I have a lead on a short block and a potentially a complete motor down these ways but if that doesn't pan out I may be keen on that. Otherwise it'll be remove the block from the car, remove everything bash the pistons out and see what I'm left with. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
locost_bryan Posted February 15 Share Posted February 15 The 1622 has a 3 bearing crank, the 1800 had a 3 bearing crank (18GA prefix) until October 1964, when it was replaced by a 5 bearing crank (18GB prefix). Distributor advance curve and carb needles and/or springs will be different. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MichaelJFox Posted February 15 Author Share Posted February 15 A friend of mines old man pretty much told me to suck it up and pull the motor and he's got a guy that'll hone/plane/sort the block n head, so will get that under way if I don't find a like for like replacement soon. How did I end up rebuilding this bloody motor 6 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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