Roman's 4GR V6 Carina discussion thread

[shrike]

Whats a bulldozer ethrottle cable thing worth?

[NickJ]

Some learnings from my workings with 3d printed metals

All threads print solid then post machine drill+tap

If you're going to play around with printed metal, a key advantage is you can hollow it out to a pretty thin skin and replace the removed core with a lattice

Thermal issues during print should be considered, sharp transitions in section are often best avoided

Post machining is your friend, perfect results from the printer are a bonus not the norm

[tortron]

Titanium GN stroker conrod sound good, and probably the same price as NOS short boi rods

[Roman]

17 hours ago, shrike said:

Whats a bulldozer ethrottle cable thing worth?

$270 delivered... Worth a punt. 

[Hurmeez]

Just had a thought regarding your fuel rails. We have had trouble in the past at work with intricate printed fluid paths holding trapped print powder that later dislodges and causes havoc downstream. It may be less of an issue for you with the relatively large diameter internal passages, but given it's directly before the injectors without filtration, it's probably worth putting them through some kind of flush before you use them.
We've used a modified water blaster to get the flow velocity required through small diameter pathways in the past, but that's probably a bit overkill for you.
We've also used a vibrating flush setup for larger stuff. I was thinking about making a similar sketchy setup to mount to an orbital sander and flush it with tap water for some potential printing you've inspired me to consider.
I'm sure you've thought about this stuff before, but just figured it might be useful to share some of my experiences nonetheless.

[GARDRB]

I feel like this guy would be friends with you if you lived in the same country Dave
 

 

[Roman]

9 hours ago, Hurmeez said:

Just had a thought regarding your fuel rails. We have had trouble in the past at work with intricate printed fluid paths holding trapped print powder that later dislodges and causes havoc downstream. It may be less of an issue for you with the relatively large diameter internal passages, but given it's directly before the injectors without filtration, it's probably worth putting them through some kind of flush before you use them.
We've used a modified water blaster to get the flow velocity required through small diameter pathways in the past, but that's probably a bit overkill for you.
We've also used a vibrating flush setup for larger stuff. I was thinking about making a similar sketchy setup to mount to an orbital sander and flush it with tap water for some potential printing you've inspired me to consider.
I'm sure you've thought about this stuff before, but just figured it might be useful to share some of my experiences nonetheless.

Thanks for that. 

@flyingbrick and myself for interest's sake stuck a borescope camera down the inside of the rail, and it was amazing how good it looked on the inside. Was expecting dreggy sort of shit somewhere for reasons similar to what you're stating. 

However might chuck them through the ultrasonic cleaner and see if any poos come out

 

[Roman]

10 hours ago, GARDRB said:

I feel like this guy would be friends with you if you lived in the same country Dave

Ha, that was cool as! 

Damnit, another youtube thing to start watching...
The idea of a real life jig that mounts the flange to the collector is a good idea. 
It's just such a prick of a thing trying to get everything past the steering column/chassis rail / crossmember on mine. 
Lucky it's only 3 pipes though! 6 per side looks like a nightmare, going up high looks like a good scheme.

I've got a big bunch of stuff turning up this coming week. 
-New flanges from stainless which are a lighter shape than last ones, and let me slot the pipes right through like so 


-A lot more pipes and bends, that have long legs on each side of the bend so hopefully simplify the shapes with fewer welds needed.

-A second collector for the other side and the VVT capping plates.

-Bulldozer ethrottle.

-Some wiring stuff to get my digidash thing working in the car.

So will be getting stuck in early next week hopefully. 

[deankdx]

17 hours ago, Roman said:

Damnit, another youtube thing to start watching.

that might be old content also, because they didn't post for nearly 12 months. I commented with a suggestion they look into metal 3D print or that bracket they had CNC machined, as your success looks like that may be better and cheaper as in a better metal even. 

i stopped short of suggesting they check this thread out for the latest use of technology  on a budget..

[Roman]

Yeah metal printing would definitely be cheaper for some of those parts! 

Looks like their collector was metal printed? Or cast maybe. 

[deankdx]

47 minutes ago, Roman said:

Yeah metal printing would definitely be cheaper for some of those parts! 

Looks like their collector was metal printed? Or cast maybe. 

yeah i can't remember, you'll see it if you watch the series.

i don't see/remember how they are going to be able to weld those pipes to it? (cutting open and welding from the inside?) the whole manifold could be 3D printed with a saving in weld time alone surely.

i think they may be setting up to sell conversion parts, so this may be a way to sell them in kit form (weld them yourself and save $2000 in labour?) 

the intake was very complex, i can't remember without watching it again but you'd probably see some interesting ideas of how they went about it. 

[Rhyscar]

You’ll enjoy this… x-pipe steps and tubing length. 
 

 

[GARDRB]

On 03/08/2024 at 22:28, Roman said:

-New flanges from stainless which are a lighter shape than last ones, and let me slot the pipes right through like so 

 

Would printed flanges with 50mm of the initial pipe integrated that you could slip your tube into make sense or not financially viable?

[Truenotch]

13 hours ago, Rhyscar said:

You’ll enjoy this… x-pipe steps and tubing length. 
 

 

Fluid MotorUnion: "You can't make a Prius sound like a Judd V8" 

Roman: "Hold my beer" 

[Roman]

This is another awesome sounding one, a destroked BMW straight six... But this one is turbo so once again its throwing out Maester's rule book on what's needed to sound high pitched. 
I'm still both excited that the Carina might sound cool at full chat and also terrified that it's going to sound unfixably awful for some reason.
Seems like a real lottery! 
 

 

[Roman]

57 minutes ago, GARDRB said:

Would printed flanges with 50mm of the initial pipe integrated that you could slip your tube into make sense or not financially viable?

This might work if I knew exactly where my pipes need to go. (in terms of angles etc) 
But it's been too hard trying to come up with a design that works made from regular bend sections in a model. 
I dont know the actual orientation I'd need, one of the pipes needs to start its bend as soon as possible so that would need to be incorporated. 
This new flange though will make life waaaayyyyy easier than before.
Especially once I've got one runner down to the collector fully made. 

[Rhyscar]

That beemer sounds unreal, particularly so for a churbo!

[HighLUX]

That metal printing is wild and the fact its so easy to access/affordable vs fabing something from scratch makes it even better.

Im now having ideas about a couple of custom manifolds to easily run an intercooler on GZE boat anchor. Space is tight and doing it the old school way would make something unwieldy and ugly unless your the fab magician but draw up some flanges with an elbow attached would make it super easy to mount a W2A intercooler right next to the intake and help with all the hot air a SC14 makes 

[Roman]

Yeah stuff like that is perfect use for it. 
You should check out what Matt Gill has been up to, he's been seeing how far he can push the SC12 and SC14. 
His SC14 setup ran a 13.6 at the drags on a 195 street tyre which is awesome!
Must be making some good power, think he said he ran a 105 or 106mph over the line when the car was colder.
I've always shit talked SC12/14 setups but he's making it work really well.

https://www.instagram.com/garagedori_nz/

[HighLUX]

I think the key to making them any good is get the heat out of the intake charge because anything over stock boost is just lots of hot air