Tiger Tamer Posted August 2 Author Posted August 2 With the bellhousing bolts backed off 1/4 of a turn from firm the crank will rotate but feels a touch stiff. Another 1/4 of a turn and it rotates freely which I measure at 0.8mm. A 1mm spacer would work. I have 1mm panel steel. Or would I be better to do it in 1.6mm aluminium plate and have a bit more free space. 1 Quote
Tiger Tamer Posted August 2 Author Posted August 2 5 minutes ago, Nominal said: Why not just trim a bit off the input shaft length? I thought it might be the front face of the spline hitting the bearing in the crank which would be tricky. I haven't pulled the gearbox off completely yet so maybe possible. 1 Quote
mjrstar Posted August 2 Posted August 2 12 minutes ago, Nominal said: Why not just trim a bit off the input shaft length? This is what I did to mate the nissan box to the evo engine in my Mazda. Although I think the magic number was around 12mm in my case. Quote
Tiger Tamer Posted August 2 Author Posted August 2 Ok, I pulled the box off the engine. There is no witness mark anywhere on the input shaft. I took some measurements and did a drawing to see where it was fouling. It seems it is the start of the taper where the input shaft gets larger for the spline which is where I thought might be the problem. Still has about 3mm of depth left in the crank. I don't think I am that keen on attacking that with a grinder. 1 Quote
Bearded Baldy Posted August 2 Posted August 2 If noone comes from the future to stop you, it cannot be that bad of an idea. Of course my first thought would be to see if you could get a narrow spigot bearing. Quote
Bearded Baldy Posted August 2 Posted August 2 Failing that, if you have a spare driveahaft yoke then put it in gear and get someone to slowly turn it while you knock the bevel back with a new cutting disc. A flap disc would do it too i reckon. Quote
Tiger Tamer Posted August 2 Author Posted August 2 55 minutes ago, Bearded Baldy said: Failing that, if you have a spare driveahaft yoke then put it in gear and get someone to slowly turn it while you knock the bevel back with a new cutting disc. A flap disc would do it too i reckon. I did do that to the input shaft spigot to fit the bearing diameter which worked quite well. Trouble is if I try and extend the length of the straight part I will probably stuff up what I have done. Though with the bellhousing removed I could attack it from a different angle. Quote
Tiger Tamer Posted August 2 Author Posted August 2 1 hour ago, Bearded Baldy said: If noone comes from the future to stop you, it cannot be that bad of an idea. Of course my first thought would be to see if you could get a narrow spigot bearing. They supplied two spigot bearings with the bell housing. They should have only supplied 1 1/2 1 Quote
Bearded Baldy Posted August 2 Posted August 2 That is easy then. Just fit one of them and only tap it in as far you need. Have done that plenty of times. 1 Quote
Tiger Tamer Posted August 2 Author Posted August 2 1 minute ago, Bearded Baldy said: That is easy then. Just fit one of them and only tap it in as far you need. Have done that plenty of times. Both fitted with locktite. Instructions were to fit both. It’s only a small amount to remove so I will work on that for now. Probably the bell housing mating surfaces were machined a bit much. 2 Quote
BiTurbo228 Posted August 5 Posted August 5 Penny washer under each of the bellhousing bolts. Ok fine. Make it a shim washer. That way they're machined all precise-like. 2 Quote
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