Tiger Tamers 1964 Hillman Minx Project

[yoeddynz]

MX5 gearbox will take a toyota celica/landcruiser etc etc hall sensor like this. I get mine from the wreckers.

Same thread-  will screw straight in place and can then use multitude of electronic speedos (as I did in my Viva just gutted a celica speedo and made my own casing for it. 

[Tiger Tamer]

On 03/09/2025 at 19:38, mjrstar said:

Na mx5 is cable drive for the speedo, so a bit of a headache if you are running electronic speed signal. I assume maybe nb onwards is electronic?

I'd by a link ecu and 2 Metre loom, and ignore dbw and make it work. 

If you run some sort of eccentric throttle wheel the low percentage driveability will be just fine.

 

The reason of using the ecu from Kpower is I would have their support and their wiring is basically plug and play. Which means I shouldn't fry the electronics like I probably would going it alone. They even supply the software for the ecu for the state of engine tune or in the ball park. My engine being standard is should be relatively straight forward. The gearbox is a Toyota R151 which is not cable drive. I would rather have gauges rather than an electronic display.

[Tiger Tamer]

21 hours ago, yoeddynz said:

MX5 gearbox will take a toyota celica/landcruiser etc etc hall sensor like this. I get mine from the wreckers.

Same thread-  will screw straight in place and can then use multitude of electronic speedos (as I did in my Viva just gutted a celica speedo and made my own casing for it. 

The gearbox is a Toyota R151 which is not cable driven. It maybe able to be changed as a quick search some say there was both cable and electronic. I would rather have gauges than an electronic display really. I will probably have to do something like you did with the celica speedo or give Robinsons a call and see what they can do. I do have a Smiths 120mph gauge which maybe able to be gutted and converted. Smiths look like they make a 10,000 rpm electronic Tach as well.

A couple pics of the gearbox. I would think the first pic is of the speedo pick up. I don't know as yet what the connection in the second pic is, looks like temp sender ?.

 

[mjrstar]

Aah I thought you were considering an mx5 cluster, hence the discussion around the cable vs electronic..

A mate of mine has an s2k powered escort running a stock ecu and trimmed down loom. There was a guy in tye UK doing the loom diagrams and it was something super simple like a 6 wire hookup. But if the kpower setup is something that you are comfortable with I'm sure it'd be sweet. 

[Tiger Tamer]

3 hours ago, mjrstar said:

Aah I thought you were considering an mx5 cluster, hence the discussion around the cable vs electronic..

A mate of mine has an s2k powered escort running a stock ecu and trimmed down loom. There was a guy in tye UK doing the loom diagrams and it was something super simple like a 6 wire hookup. But if the kpower setup is something that you are comfortable with I'm sure it'd be sweet. 

I did consider an mx5 cluster as there was one on trade me. Kpower's main business is repowering mx5- miata  with K20-24 engines so I thought if I bought one of their dash looms it would connect to the cluster. But you have to splice their loom into the mx5 loom to make it work.

At the start of my build thread there are a couple of pics of a blue minx built in Canada with a S2000 engine and trans. He used the Honda Instruments and fitted them into the Smiths gauges which is probably similar to what Alex has done with the Viva build. I must have a look through the build.

Cheers and thanks for your input.  

[yoeddynz]

I'll be doing an update on my instruments soon. You'll like it. With those printed faces you could do all manner of designs to go along with your hillman/Honda mashup. 

Then wind up the purists at the car shows 

[igor]

Would that be a Honman or a Hilda Alex?

[Tiger Tamer]

So, I did a google search to see if there a solution to convert or replace the electronic pick up to cable and AI said this. 

 

AI Overview

 

 

 

+5

 

To convert an electronic speed sensor drive from an R151 gearbox to a cable-driven mechanical one, you'll need to replace the electronic sensor with a mechanical speedo drive unit, which involves swapping the appropriate gear onto the output shaft and installing the correct mechanical housing onto the gearbox's tailshaft. For easier installation, you can use a converter box like Speedhut's SPEEDBOX that takes the electronic signal and outputs it to a mechanical cable, eliminating the need to open the transmission.  

 

Option 1: Physical Replacement of the Drive Unit

This method requires opening the gearbox to swap out the internal components. 

 

1. 1. Identify the correct mechanical drive unit:

   Find a mechanical speedo drive unit that is compatible with your specific R151 gearbox. You may need to swap the driven gear from the electronic unit onto a new mechanical housing or vice-versa to match the gear ratio. 

    
2. 2. Swap the driven gear:

   Carefully remove the electronic speed sensor and its gear from the transmission. Press the plastic driven gear off the electronic shaft and onto the mechanical shaft. 

    
3. 3. Install the mechanical drive unit:

   Install the mechanical drive unit and its corresponding tailshaft housing onto the gearbox. This will require disconnecting and reconnecting the tailshaft and its related parts. 

    
4. 4. Connect the speedo cable:

   With the mechanical drive unit in place, you can now connect a standard mechanical speedo cable and run it to your gauge. 

    

Option 2: Using an Electronic-to-Mechanical Speed Converter Box

This is a more straightforward, non-invasive option, especially if you want to keep the original mechanical speedometer in your vehicle. 

 

1. 1. Obtain a converter box:

   Purchase a device such as the Speedhut SPEEDBOX. 

    
2. 2. Wire the converter:

   Connect the converter to your vehicle's power, ground, and electronic speed sensor signal. The converter will accept the electronic speed signal as an input. 

    
3. 3. Connect to the mechanical cable:

   The converter then outputs the signal to a mechanical drive, or in some cases, includes a mechanical cable for you to connect. 

    
4. 4. Attach to the gauge:

   The unit can be mounted under the hood or in the dash, and then connected to your existing cable-driven mechanical speedometer. 

    

It did say that AI can make mistakes so I will need to do a bit more research, which I haven't done yet but it's worth a look.

 

 

 

 

 

[Tiger Tamer]

A minor miracle has happened as I finally made the decision on the colour of the car after much decision changes and sample trials I finally bought the paint for the Hillman today. I have more samples of green paint than you would have thought possible. I have even tried mixing different ratios of two and still couldn't quite decide.

Anyway, today I received an email Total body shop and there it was, my most favorite shade of metallic green paint. Price had nothing to do with the decision making process as at last I found that special colour I had been looking for, for a long time. 

Though it does say I saved $432.15 on a 4ltr can. Happy days.

4 Litre Dulon Acrylic lacquer GREEN MET (GM27)

 

[Tiger Tamer]

I have been fitting the engine wiring loom-fuse box etc from Kpower. You don't get any instructions as it is their universal wiring loom.

Anyway I have a 3 way DTM connector to wire which I am not sure about.

Pin 1, I have connected to a fuse box I have fitted which is supplied from the ign switch when on.

Pin 2, Starter ground trigger.  I presume this is an earth connection to complete the circuit through the ECU as the starter wire on the solenoid must be constant 12v powered ?  What do you think. Am I right ?

Pin 3 Starter 12v typical hit ?  I thought this may connect to the terminal on the ign that supplies power when the key is turned to start position, but I am not sure at all here.

I have emailed them and they usually reply in a few days but I thought I would pick your brains as well.

Cheers

[chris r]

Pin 2 if assume is if you are using a relay for the starter and the relay is ground switched. I'd ignore that

Pin 3 - shit /stupid terminology but I would say you are correct. Start output from ignition switch going to starter solenoid 

[Tiger Tamer]

3 hours ago, chris r said:

Pin 2 if assume is if you are using a relay for the starter and the relay is ground switched. I'd ignore that

Pin 3 - shit /stupid terminology but I would say you are correct. Start output from ignition switch going to starter solenoid 

Cheers for the reply.

Pin 2 The fuse box that this connector is wired to has the relay in it and is their fuse box they supplied with the engine loom, ECU etc as a kit so I am thinking it will need to be used. Ground for the relay?

Pin 3 

 

[chris r]

4 hours ago, Tiger Tamer said:

Cheers for the reply.

Pin 2 The fuse box that this connector is wired to has the relay in it and is their fuse box they supplied with the engine loom, ECU etc as a kit so I am thinking it will need to be used. Ground for the relay?

Pin 3 

 

Ecu might want a start signal to know when it's cranking. I'm 98% sure the ecu wants a positive signal so you can use the same wire/terminal as pin 3

Getting a ground signal for the starter off they key will involve another relay and using a relay to trigger a relay seems a bit dumb to me

[Tiger Tamer]

I did a google search on if a resistor relay will be ok to use instead of a diode. Ai kicked in and said it would be fine. Ai always asks for more info if you have it so I gave it specific parts etc. Then it came up with a solution for speed sensitive steering. This interests me as the minx really only really needs assist if you have an elephant sitting on the bonnet. I probably should have found a manual rack but they are rare. This would also be good in the tiger as at slow speeds it is very heavy steering. I should explain that the Sunbeam Tigers original rack has been replaced with a MX5 rack as the original non power was well worn. If you can have assist at low speeds and it reduces and stops at highway speeds as a MR2 does it would be great. Same with the Minx. There is enough info there to make it worth looking at.

  

To control the Toyota MR2 power steering pump based on engine RPM or road speed, you need a frequency-sensing trigger module. Because these electronics only handle tiny signal-level currents, they cannot power the pump directly; instead, they will safely trigger the low-current side (Pin 86) of your OEX ACX1944RBL heavy-duty relay.

Using an RPM switch ensures the power steering only activates once the engine fires up (saving your battery during cranking). An automotive speed switch allows you to completely shut down or reduce the pump's assist at highway speeds when you no longer need it.

---

Option 1: Controlling by Engine RPM (Engine-On Safety)

 

 

To prevent the heavy-draw pump from running while you are cranking the starter motor, use an RPM window switch.

• The Hardware: The Jaycar New Zealand Frequency Relay Module is an affordable local option, while the premium digital MSD 8969 RPM Window Switch is widely available via Kiwi speed shops like Fast Lane Spares or Stealth Ride. [1, 2]
• The Signal Input: Tap the module's signal wire into your engine's Tachometer (TACH) output or the negative terminal of an ignition coil. [1, 2, 3, 4]
• The Programming: Set the module to trigger ON at 500 RPM and OFF at 0 RPM.
• How it works: When you turn the ignition key to "ON", the pump stays completely silent. The moment the engine catches fire and idling RPM crosses 500, the module sends a 12V trigger to Pin 86 on your OEX relay, instantly kicking the power steering into action.

---

Option 2: Controlling by Vehicle Speed (Highway Cut-off)

If you are doing a lot of open-road driving, running the MR2 pump constantly wastes alternator power and causes unnecessary cabin noise. You can automatically kill power to the pump when traveling fast.

• The Hardware: Use a dedicated digital speed trigger like the Beijer SSRV02 Speed Switch Relay, available through specialized Oceania automotive electronics suppliers. [1]
• The Signal Input: Connect the switch to your vehicle's Vehicle Speed Sensor (VSS) line, which is usually a square-wave signal wire going to your electronic speedometer. [1, 2]
• The Programming: Set the unit to trigger OFF above 60 km/h and ON below 50 km/h.
• How it works: You get maximum, light steering assist while parking and driving through suburban streets. Once you merge onto the state highway and pass 60 km/h, the speed switch drops the trigger to your heavy-duty relay, shutting the pump off. The car's natural steering geometry handles the highway curves effortlessly. As you slow down for an intersection or off-ramp and drop under 50 km/h, the steering assist instantly turns back on.

---

Basic Wiring Schematic

text

 [ Ignition 12V Switch ] ───► [ Signal Input Wire ] ───► [ RPM / Speed Module ]
                                                                 │
                                                   (Switch Output Trigger Ground or 12V)
                                                                 │
                                                                 ▼
                                                        [ OEX Relay Pin 86 ]

Use code with caution.

 

• If your module outputs a Ground (-): Connect Pin 86 of your OEX relay to the module's output wire, and wire Pin 85 of your OEX relay to a constant ignition 12V source.
• If your module outputs Positive (+): Connect Pin 86 of your OEX relay to the module's output wire, and securely bolt Pin 85 of your OEX relay to a clean chassis ground.
• (Note: Because your OEX ACX1944RBL uses a resistor rather than a diode, it doesn't matter which pin gets the positive trigger and which gets the ground).

---

Pro-Tip for Aftermarket ECUs

If this project involves a custom race car or an aftermarket ECU swap (such as a Link G4X common in New Zealand), you do not need to buy any standalone switch modules. You can wire Pin 86 of your OEX relay straight into one of your ECU's auxiliary outputs. Inside the tuning software, you can program a General Purpose PWM / Auxiliary Output using a combination of conditions (e.g., "Engine RPM > 600" AND "Wheel Speed < 50 km/h") to command the power steering exactly how you want it. [1]

If you'd like, let me know:

• Does your vehicle have a factory ECU or an aftermarket ECU (like a Link)?
• Does your dashboard currently have a working electronic speedometer?

I can help point out the easiest place in your cabin wiring loom to intercept that RPM or speed signal wire.

 

 

 

 

9 sites

 

• Electric power steering - Toymods Car Club

  15 May 2013 — Pin 6 is the switched 12v power with 10amp fuse, this needs to be switch from the ignition switch. Pin 5 is the speed sensor signa...

  

   

  Toymods Car Club

   
   
• MR2 Power steering speed signal

  8 May 2022 — If it doesn't work when testing it with varying frequencies, you might need to look into adding a pullup. Here are some other thin...

   

  Link Engine Management

   
   
• MSD Digital RPM Window Switch MSD8969 - Stealth Ride

  Are you looking for an RPM Switch that will turn a circuit on, then off at a different rpm? Look no further, our new Digital RPM W...

   

   

  Stealth Ride

   

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[Tiger Tamer]

On 01/04/2026 at 20:46, chris r said:

Ecu might want a start signal to know when it's cranking. I'm 98% sure the ecu wants a positive signal so you can use the same wire/terminal as pin 3

Getting a ground signal for the starter off they key will involve another relay and using a relay to trigger a relay seems a bit dumb to me

I had a mate around who repairs stereo's and fits them to cars occasionally now. Being an electrician and used to 12v systems as well he came out and looked at it. He came to the same conclusion for pin 1 and 3 as we did.

I asked AI to see what I got which wasn't what I needed. Then I got very specific with the question and this is the reply. See what you think. 

🗺️ Detailed 3-Way DTM Starter/Ignition Pinout

 

Pin # [1, 2, 3]	Wire Label	Circuit Type	Detailed Function & Destination
Pin 1	Ignition Switch Fused	+12V Switched Input	Feeds the Main Relay Coil. Connect this pin to your physical ignition key switch (or switch panel "IGN" toggle). When you turn the key "ON", this 12V signal powers up the main relay inside the box, distributing fused power to the ECU, coils, and injectors.
Pin 2	Starter Ground Trigger	Ground (-) Input	Relay Safety Trigger. This pin operates as a safety ground loop for the starter relay coil. If you have a clutch switch or a neutral safety switch, route this pin through that switch to a clean chassis ground. The starter relay will only engage if this pin detects a solid ground. (If you do not use a safety switch, pin this wire directly to a clean chassis ground).
Pin 3	Starter Typical 12V Hit	+12V Momentary Input	Engages the Starter Solenoid. Connect this pin to your momentary "START" key position or manual push-button. Sending a temporary +12V signal to this pin trips the high-amperage internal starter relay, sending battery juice down to the engine's starter motor.

Not sure what the BS on left side column is but the answers are in order of the pins 

Mate said I may still need to ground the pin2.

---

 

 

[mjrstar]

I had an intermittent slow turnover k24, the starter bench tested visibly ok.

It would generally start with a jump, although the battery was fine, sometimes it wouldn't start with a jump, ten it would.

I stripped down the starter  and it was chocka with brush material. There was a bit of damage on the comutator which must have been eating the brushes.

 

Anyway TLDR, double check your starter motor.

 

/ how easy does the engine bar over by hand?

[Stu]

9 hours ago, mjrstar said:

/ how easy does the engine bar over by hand?

This was what I was going to ask.

Its worth ruling that out before pulling it all out and putting in a 1NZ

[Tiger Tamer]

11 hours ago, mjrstar said:

I had an intermittent slow turnover k24, the starter bench tested visibly ok.

It would generally start with a jump, although the battery was fine, sometimes it wouldn't start with a jump, ten it would.

I stripped down the starter  and it was chocka with brush material. There was a bit of damage on the comutator which must have been eating the brushes.

 

Anyway TLDR, double check your starter motor.

 

/ how easy does the engine bar over by hand?

With the plugs out and a spanner on it, it didn't want to budge. It should be quite easy to turn over with the plugs out. The other thing to look for he suggested is the gearbox input is a little long and putting to much pressure on the thrust bearings. But I can't remember having any trouble when fitting the gearbox with alignment issues or the mating surfaces having a gap.

What is the difference with a non red top K20a ? I can pick one up but it has a silver valve colour not red. It looks original and a 2005 model

 

[mjrstar]

55 minutes ago, Tiger Tamer said:

 

What is the difference with a non red top K20a ? I can pick one up but it has a silver valve colour not red. It looks original and a 2005 model

 

Probably about 4 grand difference and about 40hp and 2000rpm? 

You could probably swap some good stuff over such as cylinder head, cams, vct actuator etc but without the extra compression it wouldn't have the fizz factor.

Hopefully the red top can be saved!

 

Is it the same to try and turn over with the clutch engaged?

[Tiger Tamer]

5 minutes ago, mjrstar said:

Probably about 4 grand difference and about 40hp and 2000rpm? 

You could probably swap some good stuff over such as cylinder head, cams, vct actuator etc but without the extra compression it wouldn't have the fizz factor.

Hopefully the red top can be saved!

 

Is it the same to try and turn over with the clutch engaged?

Yeah the same. But that can put more pressure on the crank thrust if that is the issue.

 Thought that would be the difference between the two engines. I would rather save the red top as then I would know what I have.