Flash Posted May 22, 2022 Author Share Posted May 22, 2022 With the dash pad safely tucked away I stripped a few other bits and bobs. I unbolted the gauge cluster and flipped it forward. No loose wires that I can see. There is a small voltage regulator fitted to the back of the cluster and I have heard that when these go tits up you get weird gauge related issues. The regulator looks like a fresh unit and the gauges have been fitted with LED globes so someone has definitely been in here recently. The gauge cluster is old school with a separate wire going to each terminal so I'm going to order in a set of those C clip cable markers before I start disconnecting anything. Figured it will be worthwhile permanently marking the wires as I suspect I may be going back in here more than once. Do it once, do it properly, I reckon. 6 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Flash Posted May 22, 2022 Author Share Posted May 22, 2022 There are a few other minor dash related items that I want to sort while I am about it. One of the things that currently bugs me is the lack of lower dash trims. These are two stainless steel trims that go around the instrument cluster and the glove box lid respectively. They just neaten up the whole look and since I'm planning to spend a lot of time looking at the instrument cluster the visible sag in the dash pad just above the gauges will slowly drive me insane. Aftermarket trims are available but at $130 each plus shipping I'm thinking I'll have a go at making them myself. They don't look that complex First photo below is off the net and shows what the trim looks like. In the next two photos which were taken before the dashboard strip down you can see how ugly the absence of the trims look. 4 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Flash Posted May 22, 2022 Author Share Posted May 22, 2022 Another item on the list is the factory fitted hazard light switch. On the 65 Mustangs the switch is fitted under the dashboard on the passenger side. It's not the prettiest looking thing so in 66 the factory relocated the switch to inside the glove box. For some reason my early 66 still has the switch under the dash, so while I'm about it I'm going to relocate the switch to inside the glove box. Should look much neater. Photo's of my setup and the last photo is off the net and shows the updated switch position which I will replicate. 7 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Popular Post Flash Posted May 25, 2022 Author Popular Post Share Posted May 25, 2022 My second roll of sound deadening finally pitched up yesterday, so I played a quick round of Tetris with my remaining paper templates and proceeded to lay down the rest of the floor. I'm out of material but would still like to cover the rear wheel arch inner panels and the removable panel that separates the cabin from the boot, so I'll order another roll. I can always use whatever is left over on the Thames van when I get back into working on that. 12 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Popular Post Flash Posted May 26, 2022 Author Popular Post Share Posted May 26, 2022 This morning I turned my attention to the panel that separates the cabin from the boot. I'm not sure how robust the original factory panel was, but my Muzzy has been fitted with one of Scott Drake's replica items. The little production label tells me that this beauty was manufactured on 11th February 2014. It is made of only the finest hand picked 2mm cardboard and has obviously passed through the loving hands of a skilled Taiwanese craftsman. It's clearly one of Mr Drake's superior quality products and I hope that he is well proud of this achievement. Anyhoo from the date stamp I'm guessing it was procured by Tom the previous owner and fitted at the same time as the 3 point rear seat belts and the twin baby seat anchors. I'm not altogether unhappy as it has made a lovely template for my slightly more robust replacement panel. So earlier in the week I hit my old mate Cameron up for a piece of 3mm aluminium plate which I picked up yesterday arvo. First thing this morning I got jiggy with my jigsaw and in next to no time I had my own interpretation of this part. I managed to use some factory holes in the seat back brace panels to bolt the panel into position. Marking the holes had to be done from inside the boot and much fun was had squeezing my lanky 6 foot 2 frame into the boot to get them marked. It was well worth the effort. The 4 lower seat belt anchor bolts will hold the bottom of my new panel firmly in place when I refit those. All that is left to do is to poke a hole and fit a grommet for my new rear speaker wires and I'll also cover the new panel with some sound deadening when my next batch arrives. Apart from that I'm very happy with this improvement. Thanks for looking. 11 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Flash Posted May 27, 2022 Author Share Posted May 27, 2022 Earlier this week I started putting the front bumper over riders and the metal ashtray through my vinegar process. They are looking a lot cleaner now, just some minor bits to sand, then I'll chuck some rust converter on them before giving them a good coat of 2 pac primer. 5 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Popular Post Flash Posted May 27, 2022 Author Popular Post Share Posted May 27, 2022 Before I clean up the rest of the ashtray I thought I'd poke some holes in it. I'm never going to use the ashtray, so it is getting a second lease on life as the hidey hole for the USB power socket and my blue tooth dongle for the head unit. 15 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Flash Posted May 31, 2022 Author Share Posted May 31, 2022 Only got a few hours on the Mustang this morning, so made a start on the mounting plate for the new fuse boxes. Plan is to hide them on the passenger side under the glove box for easy access. Not wanting to drill any fresh holes, I was able to make double use of two of the glove box hinge fixings and another fixing for the heater box. Then quickly replicated my cardboard template in aluminium. Managed a quick test fit before I had to pack up. Plate still needs a good tidy up before final fit. 5 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Popular Post Flash Posted June 1, 2022 Author Popular Post Share Posted June 1, 2022 This morning I cracked into part two of the new fuse box panel. Two portions are required as there just isn't enough space to get a single piece panel in without removing the heater core housing and I didn't feel up for that right now. Yesterdays panel is the part that is fixed to the car and today's panel is the portion that the actual fuse boxes bolt on to. The two fuse box back mounting bolts perform double duty holding the fuse box in position and also fixing the two aluminium plates together. Sounds a bit complicated I know, but hopefully the photos make things a bit clearer. I've only installed the ignition fed fuse box for now as I'm still waiting for the battery fed fuse box to arrive. Fuse box two is a similar style, but because the mounting space narrows I've had to order a slightly smaller box without the earthing terminals. A small compromise as I should have more than enough earthing points on the first fuse box. Apologies for the quality of the under dash photo. It's pretty dark under there and the flash reflecting off the aluminium doesn't exactly help matters. Thanks for looking. 10 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Flash Posted June 2, 2022 Author Share Posted June 2, 2022 Yesterday my cable numbering rings pitched up, so this morning I thought I'd tackle a bit of under dash archaeology in order to assess the overall condition of the wiring harness and associated electrical components. As previously mentioned my fuel gauge and ammeter aren't currently working so they need some investigation. I've also spotted a few inline fuse holders that I'd like to remove as well as one of those blue plastic cable splicer thingies that usually indicate bodged wiring modifications. There is also an aftermarket toggle switch that thus far has some unknown purpose. The basic plan is to remove all of the wiring related bodges and reconnect all of the "non factory" items to the new fuse boxes. 6 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Flash Posted June 2, 2022 Author Share Posted June 2, 2022 Some of you may be wondering why I am so hung up on augmenting the current fuse related setup, so here is a bit more detail. The factory fuse box is pretty poor by modern standards. In addition to being hard to access it only consists of 5 fuses which vary in physical size. I suppose the size differences make it easier to figure out what amperage fuse goes where, so that's a plus. But it still doesn't really cater for the addition of any modern creature comforts. I've included images of the fuse box schematic and a photo of the replacement fuses, just to show you what I am talking about. The last two photos are of my factory fuse box as it currently stands. The missing fuse labelled "dome" probably explains why my interior lights aren't working. 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Flash Posted June 2, 2022 Author Share Posted June 2, 2022 First step was to mark the instrument cluster wires before removing the cluster itself. I made a rough sketch of the setup and then added the cable numbers as I marked each cable. Initial observations: 1. Someone has been at the instrument wiring before as there are little hand written labels. Hopefully they just removed the cluster to replace the surround. 2. Instrument surround has been replaced at some stage with a reproduction part out of Taiwan. 3. As previously mentioned most of the globes have been replaced with LED items apart from the turn signal ones so I'll sort those while I am here. 4. Instrument cluster voltage regulator is relatively new. Bonus as bad ones usually result in erratic gauge behavior, so I'll take that as a win. 5. The main wiring harness appears pretty solid and relatively unmolested. Will need a clean and a bit of a tidy up, but apart from that just the previously mentioned items to sort. Photos of the spaghetti for your viewing pleasure: 9 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Flash Posted June 4, 2022 Author Share Posted June 4, 2022 Yesterday arvo the courier pitched up with another roll of sound deadening, so this morning I pulled out my recently fabricated seat back panel to cover it. While I had the panel out I covered the rear wheel arch inners and the last portion of the transmission tunnel. Feels nice and solid. I've just got the rear quarters to do, but my plan there is to cover the backs of the shaped metal side panels rather than covering the body panels as that would entail leaving big openings to access the rear quarter window mechanisms for maintenance purposes. Thanks for looking. 9 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Popular Post Flash Posted June 8, 2022 Author Popular Post Share Posted June 8, 2022 Well after weeks of particularly shitty weather, yesterday arvo the cloud cover lifted and the sun finally made an appearance. Swapped a few calls with Grant the painter last night and then shot through to his place just after morning smoko. It took Grant a couple of hours of trial and error before he declared that he was finally happy with the colour match. Pulled the car into his booth, chucked a bit of masking tape and brown paper about the place and after lunch he squirted a bit of colour onto the doors. After a few coats of base on the doors, we then unmasked both sides and Grant shot a few more coats of colour down both sides. It's looking really mint. Grant is an absolute wizard at colour matching. He has also laid down three coats of clear but I'd left my mask at home so didn't want to go into the booth to take any photos of the finish, so I'll do that tomorrow. Plan for tomorrow is to give it a good buff and it should be good to go. Some photos of the base coat. 16 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Popular Post Flash Posted June 10, 2022 Author Popular Post Share Posted June 10, 2022 It's bloody cold across here in Queensland at the moment, so we decided to leave the Mustang languishing in the booth for another day. Can't wait to get it out into the sunlight. Not that easy to take decent pics in the booth, but here are a few to give you a taste of what is to come. Rear quarter vertical panel has the fresh paint and everything above including the small horizontal panel under the window is the old paintwork. Absolutely seamless transition. Grant is a bloody legend. 16 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Popular Post Flash Posted June 12, 2022 Author Popular Post Share Posted June 12, 2022 The paint finally cured enough to give it a machine buff yesterday and the Muzzy is now back home. Needs a bloody good bath and a final hand polish before I start the reassembly, but to say that I am chuffed with the outcome would be an understatement. In other news I borrowed two hotwires from Grant. They aren't my first choice of wheel for the Mustang, but at least they have given me a feel for what the car will look like back on classic 15 inch diameter wheels. The borrowed wheels are both 7J with a 205/60/15 on the front and a 225/60/15 on the back. I'm aiming for the same size tyres but will run a 8J on the back just to fill the arch a bit more. Thanks for looking. 20 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Flash Posted June 13, 2022 Author Share Posted June 13, 2022 Next step is to renovate the metal portion of the dashboard before I can start reassembling the interior. As previously mentioned the dash paintwork is looking a bit shabby with lots of scuffs and scrapes. From factory the dash panel was painted a different shade of blue to the rest of the car and I'm keen to maintain that factory look. I've been able to track down the paint code and the plan is to get a bit of paint mixed to match. So this morning I once again pulled out the instrument cluster and then proceeded to remove the heater control panel, wiper and light switches. In order to remove the heater control panel I had to disconnect the 3 cables that control the in-cabin air flow and its at this point that things took a bit of a turn. Whilst removing the cables, I noticed that 2 of the 3 cables were completely seized. After disconnecting the cables it became apparent that the cables are fine, its the little doors inside the heater box that have seized up. So I put on my big boy pants and removed the whole heater box. Mucky job as even though I drained the radiator the heater core still holds a bit of coolant. Good thing the carpet and underlay are still out. As you can see from the photos below the heater plenum is well shagged with not only a seized control, but big gaping holes in the housing. So this is going to need some loving, but I'll put it to one side for the moment whilst I concentrate on the dash. 5 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Flash Posted June 13, 2022 Author Share Posted June 13, 2022 In other news, tucked behind the heater housing I found a little gold nugget .... well almost.... It's a "Proof of Insurance" card issued by the Automobile Club of Southern California back in 2004. Looks like he is a classic car type as the policy lists a 74 Chevy in addition to my 66 Muzzy. What a find .... I am absolutely foaming as I currently don't have any history of the car when it lived in the USA. It would be so cool if I can track down one of the previous owners. Anyhoo for privacy reasons for now I've blanked out the person's name on the photo of the card below, but I've already sent an email to a person in San Diego who shares the same name including the middle initial, so we shall see what transpires. I'll keep you posted on progress. Over and out from Straya's own Mike Hammer. 8 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Popular Post Flash Posted June 13, 2022 Author Popular Post Share Posted June 13, 2022 So back to the dashboard : I previously posted a photo of the damage done to metal around the ignition switch. The switch itself looks pretty new so I'm picking someone battled to get the old switch out and ended up doing some mischief. To get the switch out you need to remove the lock barrel . That part was easy. The bezel and switch have a bayonet fitting and there is a big spring around the neck of the switch that holds the tension. Pushing on the back of the switch is supposed to compress the spring to the point where you can twist the switch anti clockwise to disengage the bayonet. Oookaaay ..... tried that .... nup .... looks like the bent metal is preventing the spring from compressing enough ...... bugger. Fiddled about for about half an hour, but no go. Reached a point where I realised I was going to have to undertake some of my own butchery. Now at the time of the vehicle purchase included in the deal were a few small bits and pieces stashed away in the boot and as luck would have it one of the bits was a brand new ignition switch bezel still in its Scott Drake packaging dated 2012. So knowing I had a replacement on hand I figured butcher away .... and so I did. With the lock barrel out I packed the void in the switch full of tissue paper to protect the innards and armed with a pair of vice grips and the smallest blade on my demo saw I proceeded to soundly spank the bezel. I'm a bit ashamed that I needed to resort to using brute force and ignorance, but sometimes needs must. Thanks for looking. 11 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Popular Post Flash Posted June 15, 2022 Author Popular Post Share Posted June 15, 2022 Work on the metal dash panel continues. Earlier in the week I massaged the metal around the ignition switch back into shape. It was a real bugger as there is a welded in dash support right in the way, so no chance of getting a dolly in behind. Did the best I could and then applied a light smear of bog to smooth out the remaining ripples. With everything else taped up I've chucked a bit of high build primer on it. There is one small low spot that I've re-bogged, so thought I would post an update while I'm waiting for that to go off. Thanks for looking. 10 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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