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Honda K20a question


Tiger Tamer

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The shaft on the right of the first pic is the half shaft for the CV's/cv shafts. 

 

They are a relatively tall engine. Make sure you get the non povo spec motors (either type R or the ones with the red I-vtec. 

The others basically run 12v mode down low and then switch to 16v up high. 

I'm saying that even the povo 160 hp spec will still go really well. 

Rwd you'll need to fabricate a intake manifold and the water outlets on the head etc etc generally the motors are the cheap part of the swap 

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As I thought, so it can be removed i would think. Seems to be rear sumps and bell housings to convert them to rear wheel drive which is promising.

They are not a cheap engine to buy but make good power and are strong. I would spend twice as much on rebuilding the Hillman engine and ending up with only half the hp, lose torque and use as much fuel as a V8. 

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4 minutes ago, Tiger Tamer said:

As I thought, so it can be removed i would think. Seems to be rear sumps and bell housings to convert them to rear wheel drive which is promising.

They are not a cheap engine to buy but make good power and are strong. I would spend twice as much on rebuilding the Hillman engine and ending up with only half the hp, lose torque and use as much fuel as a V8. 

Yeah they unbolt easy 

IS-BRK-2_1024x1024.jpg?v=1580881917

Can get them ex pick a part for not much, nothing too much goes wrong with them so would be worth a gamble imo

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Just brought a 2001 Honda Stream (family wagon) with the K20 (K20A2 from memory - there arte a few types) Can confirm - goes hard for what it is lol. needs intake for the dort noises.

Good on fuel, cam chain too - later ones are even better. Had to change a knock sensor and it has the usual rocker cover and front crankshaft oil seal leaks, other than as above, pretty trouble free engine. Another common issue is the cams starving of oil due to poor servicing but if they have started to get a groove on you could just upgrade them while your at it.

Great swap for a little oldie like yours.

 

IMG20210828103237.jpg

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18 minutes ago, Tiger Tamer said:

Well I have hit the buy now. Need to get a flywheel- clutch- bellhousing and Hillux r151 gearbox. May need a rear sump pan as well. All seem to be available. Gearbox maybe little harder as the ones on trade me are rebuilt exchange. 

1594610350.jpg

Nice 

Is it out of a accord or a integra/civic ?

Accords have biiig oil pumps with balance shafts and early civic/integra have smaller oil pumps/possibly steel pans 

 

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1 hour ago, Tiger Tamer said:

Well I have hit the buy now. Need to get a flywheel- clutch- bellhousing and Hillux r151 gearbox. May need a rear sump pan as well. All seem to be available. Gearbox maybe little harder as the ones on trade me are rebuilt exchange. 

 

Congrats!

I'm a little bit further down the conversion track then you which means you might find some useful information in my build thread for what your about to go through.

Otherwise post up questions, and I can also try and help answer them as I've got my head around these engines now.

Yours looks like a CL7 version, so a couple of things to note. 

They come with balance shafts which you will have to replace if you are moving the pickup to the rear, the only place I've seen offer that rear sump was Kmiata (Kpower now).

https://kpower.industries/collections/kmiata-swap-parts/products/k-series-miata-oiling-solution

That also needs a replacement oil pump, so it probably worth doing the timing chain/tensioner at the same time as you have to remove it to do the oil pump chain. I didn't but then realised my chain had stretched (motor had done 106,000k) by a couple of mm so ended up replacing it in the end, but i'm going for every bit of performance.

I've been buying all my genuine replacement parts from Amayama as they come in a lot cheaper then anywhere else you can source them from, you just have to work out the part numbers etc.

The other thing to note is the CL7 version is more like the USA K24 then a EP3/DC5 in some of it's items like water outlets etc. And the FD2 engine was based on the CL7 as well.

In terms of water outlets etc I would say give aliexpress a go first, I brought genuine Ktuned stuff, and the quality was pretty poor, which means you could potentially save a few $$ by just going for the Chinese knock offs.

Good luck!

 

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Thanks for the replies guys and the link to your build Hyperblade. I will be spending some time looking through that. I will check out the links for the steel pans as I think a rear sump set up would be a huge help with clearance around the front cross member. It is out of a Accord which has done 181k with good compression in all cyl. 

I have also got this thread from one used in a Minx in Canada but it was a rwd engine and gearbox. He got well carried away and it is well worth taking a look at his work.

 '66 Sunbeam Minx Project - F20C/6sp/4-link/Discs... - The 1947 - Present Chevrolet & GMC Truck Message Board Network (67-72chevytrucks.com)

Cheers 

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  • 11 months later...

 

I was hoping for some help with torque settings for the flywheel and pressure plate. I have found the flywheel torque is 87 ft/lbs and the pressure plate is 19 ft/lbs but also found others that say different. If anyone has the correct settings it would be appreciated.

Cheers

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Cylinder head bolts: 39Nm (29ft/lbs), 90 degr, 90 degr. (One extra 90 on new bolts.)

Main cap bolts: 29Nm (22ft/lbs) and 56 degr.

Girlde bolts (M8): 22Nm (16ft/lbs).

Rod bolts: 29Nm (22ft/lbs) and 90 degr.

Valve adjustemet locknut: 19Nm (14ft/lbs).

Valve cover bolts: 12Nm (8.7ft/lbs).

Chain tensioner bolts: 12Nm (8.7ft/lbs).

Cam holder bolts: M8 22Nm (16ft/lbs), M6 12Nm (8.7ft/lbs).

Intake Cam Gear: 112Nm (83ft/lbs).

Exhaust Cam Gear: 69Nm (51ft/lbs).

Timing chain cover: M6 12Nm (8.7ft/lbs).

Crank Pulley: 245Nm (181ft/lbs).

Flywheel: 118Nm (87ft/lbs).

Spark plugs:16Nm (12ft/lbs)

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