Jump to content

KwS's Rover 220 Tomcat


kws

Recommended Posts

 16 years ago I had one of these.  Went well. Had head gasket done.i believe they had plastic locating dowels  for the head that would get brittle and break and the head would shift .   Lots of torque steer

Replaced  cvs a couple times.  Rear engine mount and once  the rear sway bar pulled out of the  chassis

All in all  hell of a lot of fun for the price

 

  • Like 3
Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • Replies 75
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

7 hours ago, Sunbeam said:

Mean. Old mate in north Taranaki bought two of these in the last couple of months. One is destined at this stage to be a Nazcar/lemons racer.

If its a coupe, is he selling any bits from it?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

1 hour ago, Sunbeam said:

Both 220 turbo coupes. He hasn’t decided the fate of the other one yet, but it looks far too tidy to wreck

Send him my way if he is going to wreck either of them (or stripping the race car out for lightening etc), Its a Rover, Im always going to need to hoard parts :lol:

  • Like 2
Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...

It was obvious from the moment the car was delivered that I had purchased yet another car with a deferred maintenance problem. There were leaks everywhere, and the coolant was anything but.

Of course, this set me into the usual course of action. A full service.

The first on the list was the coolant. When I first backed the car off the truck, before starting it, I checked to see if there was anything in the expansion tank. There was, but it was a mixture of clean water and brown sediment. Yay.

Draining the cooling system is fairly simple, albeit a pain due to a lack of a drain tap, so you have to pull the lower radiator hose off and try not to make a huge mess.

DSC05976-1024x575.jpg
Thankfully I got a cheap fish bin a while back, and that was perfect for catching a large amount of liquid from various places. There was no coolant in the system, just brown murky water.

DSC05977-1024x575.jpg
I drained it all out, removed the expansion tank for a quick clean (it's very stained, but holds pressure, so it will stay for now) and then flushed the radiator and engine through with fresh water until it ran clean.

DSC05978-1024x575.jpg
With the expansion tank out it was the perfect time to remove the ugly AC pipe that was just hanging out in the engine bay. The AC system is a write-off since the previous owner left the inlet/outlet on the pump open to the elements for who knows how long, so the pump is probably stuffed. I'll just make do with popping the tops on a hot day (or using a different car).

IMG_20210904_122308-1024x768.jpg
DSC05979-1024x575.jpg
To flush the engine I removed the top hose. This hose should house a thermostat (it's held in the top hose with a hose clamp, not in a housing). I suspected the thermostat was missing, and sure enough, nothing.

DSC05980-1024x575.jpg
Filling and bleeding the T series system is also quite easy. Fill the expansion tank up whilst squeezing the top hose until coolant starts to flow from the top hose bleed screw (which was plugged solid with gunk, so I had to clear the bleed screw first. It should have a little hole in the side near the top so you don't have to remove the screw completely), and then run the car up to temp with the cap off the tank. I used my big coolant funnel to raise the head even higher which makes bleeding a bit easier, but not necessary.

DSC05982-1024x575.jpg
This is about how far the bleed screw needs to be opened if the internal channel in the screw is clear

DSC05983-1024x575.jpg
The coolant bottle ain't great, but at least I can see the coolant level now. I removed some coolant once I was sure the cooling system was bled, and now it sits just on the Max line.

DSC05984-1024x575.jpg
Next up, since the engine was warm now, was to drop and replace the engine oil and filter. This was really easy. 19mm bolt on the back of the sump to drain the oil, and the filter is just right there off to the side.

DSC05986-1024x575.jpg
DSC05987-1024x575.jpg
The smell of Bullshite was starting to get pretty strong now. In the listing for the car when I bought it, it clearly states "Full Service" as having recently been done. Well, clearly not the coolant, or as it turns out, the engine oil. The oil was black and smelt a bit fuelly. Not fresh, that's for sure.

I poured in the required 4.5L of HPR10 10W50 full synthetic, started the car up, the oil light went straight out and the engine sounded happy.

The gearbox was next. I know these PG1 gearboxes are VERY sensitive to being run with low fluid due to their plastic cage bearings, which will overheat and grenade themselves. There is some bearing noise at idle in this car, and I could see the gearbox was wet on the back, so hopes weren't high that the oil level was correct.

As always, remember to crack and remove the fill plug first, and then the drain plug. The fill plug (green arrow) is a 17mm hex, whilst the drain plug (orange arrow) can be undone with a 3/8 ratchet with no socket.

DSC05989-copy-1024x575.jpg
Because I was curious, I drained the fluid into a clean measuring jug. The colour wasn't good, and it smelt burnt.

DSC05990-1024x575.jpg
Well, I'm glad I drained it. Less than 1.5L, which is over 1L down on the 2.5L it should have in it. No chunks thankfully, but those bearings must be a bit toasty.

DSC05991-1024x575.jpg
I refilled the box with Honda MTF. I agonised (like usual) over this oil decision for ages, but the recommended oil is Landrover MTF94 (which supersedes engine oil in the box), which according to the interwebs is interchangeable with Honda MTF. Either way, it's got to be better than what was in there. Interestingly though, Honda MTF is very thin, which was a surprise.

With the underside fluids done, I moved on to the sparky stuff.

The leads didn't inspire confidence, as they were generic off the shelf Repco leads. Probably fine, probably do the job, but were wrong. Wrong is bad.

DSC05992-1024x575.jpg
With the leads removed, I could remove the spark plugs. These did actually look quite new, and were the right model (NGK BKR6E), but they hadn't regapped them from the standard 1.1mm gap to the required 0.85mm gap. Sigh.

DSC05994-1024x575.jpg
I fit a new set of BKR6E gapped to 0.85mm and then fit the new Lucas LUC7443 leads.

DSC05995-1024x575.jpg
I also removed and replaced the cap and rotor. They were in decent shape, but had some minor wear. It's quite interesting that the T series doesn't have a distributor as such, the rotor mounts right onto the end of the camshaft, and the cap screws to the head. The shield under the cap was looking a bit worse for wear, but are expensive to replace.

DSC05993-1024x575.jpg
New cap and rotor fitted, and new leads connected. I was interested to note that despite the listing saying "new coils" the coil (tucked behind the battery) was original. Maybe they meant spark plugs?

DSC05996-1024x575.jpg
Next, since the intake pipes were out of the way, I wanted to check the wastegate and dump valve were working correctly. I connected my vacuum pump to the dump valve vacuum hose, but it wouldn't hold a vacuum. I could hear a whistling noise. Nuts.

Turns out, the vacuum hose had a big gash in it, which had been badly covered with insulation tape. That tape had proceeded to fail in the heat and wasn't sealing anything.

DSC05997-1024x575.jpg
The vacuum hose to the wastegate was actually a length of fuel hose and had gone rock hard in the engine bay heat. Unfortunately when trying to remove this pipe from the boost control valve, I broke the nipple off the valve. Ugh.

DSC05998-1024x575.jpg
I did a quick fix, hopefully it holds. If it doesn't I will look into a manual boost control to replace it, and set it to standard boost. To try to fix this one I ran a 5mm drill bit down it, and epoxyed a short section of brake tube into the hole. It was a snug fit (had to be tapped into place), and the epoxy is meant to be super strength.

DSC05999-1024x575.jpg
I used a length of old hose to test the dump valve and wastegate in the meantime, and thankfully both worked as expected.

DSC06000-1024x575.jpg
After a couple of days for the epoxy to cure, I replaced the rubbish vacuum hoses with new black silicone vacuum hose.

DSC06005-1024x575.jpg
DSC06006-1024x575.jpg
DSC06007-1024x575.jpg
Since I was already there, I quickly removed the cambelt cover to check the timing and condition of the belt. I had been told the belt was replaced recently when the headgasket was done. Since the head is pouring oil from everywhere, I didn't have much faith in the cambelt having been done/done properly either.

DSC06008-1024x575.jpg
Thankfully, the belt looks very good, if it's not new new, it's not long been replaced. Even better, the timing marks all line up as they should. It appears the roll pins are in the correct locations too.

DSC06009-1024x575.jpg
I buttoned the engine back up

DSC06011-1024x575.jpg
The engine bay looks exactly the same, except for the missing AC pipe, and the green coolant in the tank. The main benefit was that the engine starts on the button every time, doesn't overheat when idling, runs quietly and idles smoothly.

Annoyingly the brake light switch has failed (brake lights stuck on again), so since I'm waiting on a replacement to show up I haven't been able to take the car for a drive since I did all this work. Hopefully it isn't too far away, I'm dying to see if it boosts better now.

Since the car was stuck in the garage I did a couple of other things.

The boot latch was no good. As I mentioned in my previous post, I had to slam the boot lid hard to get it to catch. This was due to the catch having a missing plastic section inside it.

I managed to source a replacement catch, with the correct plastic piece intact.

DSC06012-1024x575.jpg
DSC06015-1024x575.jpg
This is the old catch

DSC06014-1024x575.jpg
And this is the new catch, with the required black plastic bit

DSC06013-1024x575.jpg
The plastic part alters how far the striker needs to go into the catch before it shuts the latch.

Interestingly the new catch was date stamped 97 (my original 94) and seems to have some running updates and is a higher quality.

DSC06021-1024x575.jpg
The improvement is vast. Not only does the internal release work correctly now, but I don't have to slam the boot lid. I can close it like a normal person, gently letting it close, and it latches first time every time. Great success.

Now to get some new gas struts so I don't have to worry as much about the 2 tons of boot lid taking my head off when I use the boot.

  • Like 7
Link to comment
Share on other sites

This car has some cosmetic challenges. I managed to knock a couple off and make things just a little nicer.

Most of the cosmetic issues with this car stem from it being outside under the sun. There are some things that are hard to get (or hard to replace) but thankfully some parts are easy to replace, and since there is an R8 Rover 200 liftback at the local Pick A Part I went on a raid to get some bits.

The major one was the dash wood. Mine was in really bad condition and was an eyesore to look at. Although the wood seemed good, the lacquer was falling off in chunks.

IMG_20210904_121427-1024x768.jpg
The wood on the dash of the car at PAP was perfect. Not a mark on it.

IMG_20210911_133436-1024x768.jpg
Removing the trim can be a bit nerve-wracking. There are a series of spring clips along it.

IMG_20210911_133457-1024x768.jpg
IMG_20210911_133454-1024x768.jpg
To release the clips, start with a pry tool on the far LH side, levering it outwards. Using another tool, work slightly further along. Eventually, with some force, the end clips will give in, and then you can just pull it free with your hands.

IMG_20210911_133553-1024x768.jpg
The other benefit of replacing the trim was that I could look into why the backlight on the clock was dead. The LCD was working as you could just make out the faint digits. It turns out that both the bulb was blown, and the clock needed to be disassembled and the solder joints reflowed. The replacement clock suffered the same issue.

The replacement wood just pushes into place, starting at the RH end.

IMG_20210911_141936-1024x540.jpg
And the clock works too. Such a classic orange glow.

IMG_20210911_141942-1024x671.jpg
When I was at Pick A Part I decided to grab a couple of door switches, as I know they are known failure points. Turns out this was fortuitous as both of mine were broken, and the interior light didn't work. The slider lever had broken off both.

IMG_20210911_142336-1024x818.jpg
One screw holds it on, so remove that

IMG_20210911_142406-1024x768.jpg
Disconnect the cable, plug it into the replacement and screw it back in. Done.

IMG_20210911_142513-1024x768.jpg
Rinse and repeat for the other side. Now the light works on the door setting.

IMG_20210911_142752-1024x768.jpg
I changed it to an LED for more brightness and less consumption.

IMG_20210911_143234-1024x768.jpg
The LED doesn't fade quite as nice as a bulb (yes, the light fades out, how flash) but it's not really noticeable unless you're watching the light.

Moving right along, the next part I scored was a good condition front grille. Mine was rusty and I was at risk of getting tetanus every time I lifted the bonnet (which is a lot).

5 nuts hold the grille on. I found this mess behind the grille.

IMG_20210911_144331-1024x768.jpg
A quick clean

IMG_20210911_145107-1024x768.jpg
And the replacement grille fitted. I had to swap my badge over because someone had screwdrivered the badge when it was at PAP.

DSC06022-1024x575.jpg
This is why I replaced it

IMG_20210911_144336-1024x768.jpg
The replacement had some surface rust on it, but I wire brushed it and then used some rust converter to hopefully stop it getting too crispy. The grille is riveted together, So it wouldn't be a bad idea to split it and properly coat that steel backing inside and out.

Still plenty more parts to tidy up on this car, but it looks nice from afar.

  • Like 9
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Well, it all ground to a halt today. Was out bedding in the new brakes, car running and driving the best it has. Took off from a stop with a little vigor, comes on boost and pop, suddenly it feels like its come out of gear and free revs. I try selecting a gear again, so change.

Turns out I've lost all gears, including reverse. I have also lost all the fresh new gearbox oil all over the flat bed tow trucks deck. The car can be pushed forward when in reverse and backwards when in a forward gear, so the wheels feel detached from the gearbox. No grinding, no rattling, nothing. Just no gears.

At least it looked really good sitting waiting for the tow
dzGqshW.jpg

I'll need to jack the car up tomorrow and see what's given way. No result is good, as it all basically comes down to gearbox out and a rebuild. Maybe its time to get a Type B or Quaife, if that's whats gone.

  • Like 6
  • Thanks 1
  • Confused 2
  • Sad 13
Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 1 month later...

Great progress, I don't have much to add but I found installation and removal of the bitch pin (shift linkage roll pin) on my b series honda was easiest with a small g-clamp and a torx bit that would locate down into the pin..I taped a socket to the g clamp foot for the pin to exit in to.. 

Also don't overtighten the through bolt for the gear lever where it attaches to the shift linkage.. 

  • Like 2
Link to comment
Share on other sites

With the shaft/carrier that the 5th gear needle roller bearings sit on, you can probably get it metal sprayed and spun as an easier/cheaper alternative to replacing. There's an awesome old bloke in onehunga, Auckland called Malcolm at MacLean Metalsprayers who sorts alot of similar work for us. Unsure if there's someone down the line that does similar work but worth looking into.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

2 hours ago, mjrstar said:

Great progress, I don't have much to add but I found installation and removal of the bitch pin (shift linkage roll pin) on my b series honda was easiest with a small g-clamp and a torx bit that would locate down into the pin..I taped a socket to the g clamp foot for the pin to exit in to.. 

Also don't overtighten the through bolt for the gear lever where it attaches to the shift linkage.. 

I'll probably be replacing the pin with an m8 bolt tightened FT as there was quite a lot of play at that end. Fairly common "upgrade" in Rover circles along with the kit to replace the pins in the UK with bolts. 

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

×
×
  • Create New...