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Tortrons it's old school now wingroad


tortron

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I can get some out of the states if I have to

The factory Sr20 wingroad doesn't exist on amayama or in any parts lists which is dumb because I want part numbers. 

I might even change the hubs to something 114.3x4 to match the disk rear

The ones I posted are available in nz

 

image.png.164f836bba845ee22ab5f93a434e11c7.png

 

Was one at tga pick a part a year or so ago

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The ones on the donor need everything replaced. But possibly.

Later wingroads are used to upgrade stuff as well. Tho this wingroad already has "the big brakes" on it that sentra foamers want

 

At this point il put the engine in and check the axle lengths for a start. There is 100% a factory set of axles and cvs that will just go on without changing anything. This will probably take me another 6 months, so the donor car will be going as a rolling shell, let the budget build back up too 

 

 

Lol last month I sold a set of multistud 5 spoke wheels nearly identical to the ones I have on the car now, cos why would I need those. The ones I have on are only 4x100.

 

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Found it, and it makes sense I guess

Y11 wingroad sr20ve appears to have a 25/55/25 with 42 tooth abs ring

Bout 150 each

 

Looks like all the Y10s have the same outer cv splines, so they must use different axles. Early early y11s were just a face lifted y10 as well

Not that common engine fitment

Seems to also be a Presea PR10 fitment, and sentra/tsuru 2.0 which is what axles all the Americans use for Sr20 swaps. So easy to get 

 

nn-15.jpg

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Current plan is

See if disk rear end actually fits. If it does I will convert the front end to 4x114.3 using Y11 wingroad hubs and spindles. (Y11 AD van are apparently 4x100) this gives you a few bolt on brake options. Can go 4 pot r32. But I will probably go for 11" disks and calipers from a p11 primera (m6, I think this is the one with white gauges/cvt or vvl. Needs 15"wheels). Possible that avenir brakes also bolt on to the Y11 spindle so could also do that and just do a full avenir brake swap. Which would be 11" and twin pot. 

 

(bluebird doesn't have abs so would have to rig up the sensor into that, so never mind) 

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  • 4 months later...

Pretty sure this has sat on the lawn for 12 months

Ga15 started on the first crank

 

 

 

It sat cos I needed to turn it around to weld up the bum, but there was a car in the way for months, and then it was winter and rained for months. 

 

Proba bly pull it to bits now while I wait for parts for other stuff

 

BUY a scooter so I can get it in the shed for paint

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On 29/05/2022 at 06:57, tortron said:

 

 

Lol last month I sold a set of multistud 5 spoke wheels nearly identical to the ones I have on the car now, cos why would I need those. The ones I have on are only 4x100.

 

Im a tard, the ones I have are also multi stud

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IMG_20221007_164029_edit_211733067621337.thumb.jpg.e93e4cf21fcd3bb8c838f7ea002e7b20.jpg

Wingroad drum rear end. The spindle is welded on, I think you could grind the welds off, you would have to weld up the two holes at the top as they go right through and re drill as the bolt holes for the disk spindle fall within, but slightly smaller of that. Abs ring is smaller and 42 tooth. 

Bearing HU8042

 

Bolt pattern 94mm wide

68 tall

 

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Here is a drum hub sitting on a dusk spindle

IMG_20221007_161704_edit_212410382025400.thumb.jpg.66ca5a722cdffa1259389c8aef762483.jpg

Other than the abs ring they seem to be interchangeable 

 

I'd like it if the abs worked, so something to consider

 

I measured both rear ends and it looks like the disk one is 3cm wider. Measuring this at the spring perches and shock mounts 

The bushings at the front look to be the same width so they will slot in. There is easily enough spring in the arms to take up 1.5cm each side

 

They are however 4cm longer, so would push everything back that much. It might be best to just chop the drum spindles off and drill and tap mounting holes for the disk spindles to bolt to

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I bet the drum beam has these spindle locating pegs as well, so that will make locating the holes easy as

IMG_20221008_140932_edit_258635303122513.thumb.jpg.4035d2f22723b5d565f039de01d4d23a.jpg

 

Will also need to cut the flex hose mounts off and weld them on the drum beam. Then some minor changes to the hard line to get them to line up. 

Needs handbrake cables with a loop end, probably avenir ones, but they may be a bit long. Don't think that's a major to have made if needed

Wheel track will be exactly the same which is cool. 

 

The drum shoes have about 1mm of meat left on them, so good timing, probably just put the wheel back on for now, now that I have an idea of what's needed so I can wheel it around for engine swap

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Fired up the good reliable, economic, zippy GA15de for the last time (to take a video incase I sell it, but always on the lookout for a body with blown engine) 

Got removing stuff. It's pretty quick, it's just fuel lines, power steering lines, 2 grounds, 6 plugs, aircon lines, radiator hoses, intake pipe, push loom through firewall, shifter linkages, exhaust and then 4 engine mounts. 

But I got stuck at the axle nuts, needs a deep 32mm, I have 2 32mm sockets but not a deep one. 

So tomorrow crack those out and celebrate taking another perfectly fine running nissan off the road. 

 

IMG_20221013_165357.jpg

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Top of core is in line with panel

IMG_20221013_161718_edit_531371577701731.thumb.jpg.14b93f3d4df55ad13a1a2a64234131f4.jpg

So it would sit on a very slight angle. I think a little foam in between there and some top mounts to hold it a little back and it will be fine. 

Unfortunately my ga15 rad is excellent cond, replaced recently. Bluebird one not so good but entirely functional. 

If I have to get a new one il be looking at other nissan ones Sr20 sentra maybe

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