yetchh Posted July 17, 2021 Share Posted July 17, 2021 52 minutes ago, gibbon said: the long wastegate pipe was just to try and keep the main downpipe flow nice and smooth, there was no real science to it. I don't quite get what you mean by a bellmouth? This particular turbine housing has a wall between the two outlets so I can't really just block up the wastegate flange and have everything exit out the main pipe If the dodge booster is as bolt-in as they say, it'd surely be less effort than reshaping the upper pipe... actually I suppose the flexi joint means I could lean the upper pipe inboard and try to curve it around I was thinking of doing the same sort of thing as you, albeit merging before the flexi. After doing a heap of research a bell mouth seemed to be the better idea so as to reduce pressure post turbo and having a separate pipe for the wastegate was pointless. As long as the transitions from turbo to exhaust are nice and smooth with no sharp bends wastegate pipes are best left for externals. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gibbon Posted July 17, 2021 Author Share Posted July 17, 2021 I haven't replied because i've been down in the garage staring at this bloody thing. I've got a few options really firstly, what's the consensus on a reasonable clearance to aim for? Is a heat shield with half an inch clearance on either side enough? This might immediately rule out denting the pipe as an option I could push the main pipe forwards and reshape it so it hugs the wastegate pipe all the way up from above the flexi, that's the closest thing to what I would call a "walled bellmouth", but some of the access is going to be pretty friggin tight to get a welder into, and it'll require a custom radius - I guess I'll get to have a go at one of those cool segmented jobbies Or I could push it inboards into the gap that Bling mentioned, that'll require some funky compound bending where again welding access might be a bit difficult (I can see why the bellmouth idea is so prevalent as it sorts out all the plumbing off the bat) this style also will keep reasonably tight clearance to the clutch master the flexi makes both those options possible without cutting and reshaping the bottom section I'm a little surprised that there's so much recoiling in horror about the prospect of fitting a smaller booster? I acknowledge that I cocked up and the pipe is too close to the hydraulics, but for the price of a $90 booster which will give me 2" clearance off the bat, I'll need to go out and buy a bunch more metal - (this pipe used exactly one 2.5" U and one 1.75" U) and spend hours on the welder either making a segmented radius or a compound one Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gibbon Posted July 17, 2021 Author Share Posted July 17, 2021 44 minutes ago, yetchh said: I was thinking of doing the same sort of thing as you, albeit merging before the flexi. After doing a heap of research a bell mouth seemed to be the better idea so as to reduce pressure post turbo and having a separate pipe for the wastegate was pointless. As long as the transitions from turbo to exhaust are nice and smooth with no sharp bends wastegate pipes are best left for externals. going with a bellmouth would have saved a bit of headache had I done it initially, but the wastegate pipe isn't really part of the problem now so I might just leave it, pointless or not (I was moaning about access in the above post but I realise that once the mainpipe is cut from the flange, I can seperate the two pipes easily enough to weld on the underside of the mainpipe, thank god for flexis). I didn't really have the option to join it before the flexi as the angle was going to be miles too tight to weld between the pipes where it joined (is there a trick for this?)... and I couldn't bring it away from the mainpipe and then around on a more perpindicular angle in a big S as it was fouling on the manifold. So I figured I'd run it all the way down where I could get a better approach angle.. even then it was marginal, I shouldve allowed it to loop around just a little more and come up from underneath Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mjrstar Posted July 17, 2021 Share Posted July 17, 2021 If you are trying to get down into a tight spot with your mig you can trim down the shield on the tip. Or alternatively have a crack with a stick welder to get the last inaccessible bit. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gibbon Posted July 17, 2021 Author Share Posted July 17, 2021 46 minutes ago, mjrstar said: If you are trying to get down into a tight spot with your mig you can trim down the shield on the tip. Or alternatively have a crack with a stick welder to get the last inaccessible bit. I think there might be an old stick welder lurking around the back, thanks for the suggestion. I think I can reshape the main pipe on the bench, abuse the flexi to get access to weld it back in, then finally pop the top end back through the flange. Can either get the last bit around the outside with a stick as you suggest or just give up and weld that bit on the inside only As frustrating as it is, I'm really enjoying puzzling it all out Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
yetchh Posted July 17, 2021 Share Posted July 17, 2021 The amount of times I've spent hours making shit only to realise it won't work... 1 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kws Posted July 17, 2021 Share Posted July 17, 2021 13 hours ago, gibbon said: I'm a little surprised that there's so much recoiling in horror about the prospect of fitting a smaller booster? I acknowledge that I cocked up and the pipe is too close to the hydraulics, but for the price of a $90 booster which will give me 2" clearance off the bat, I'll need to go out and buy a bunch more metal - (this pipe used exactly one 2.5" U and one 1.75" U) and spend hours on the welder either making a segmented radius or a compound one Forget the booster, im recoiling in horror at how close it is to the clutch master. It'll cook the fluid in that and you'll have no clutch until it cools down. Very common in Subarus where the factory master heatshield is removed (usually in manual conversions) and people fit bigger dump pipes. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cletus Posted July 17, 2021 Share Posted July 17, 2021 6 minutes ago, kws said: Subarus where the factory master heatshield is removed (usually in manual conversions) and people fit bigger dump pipes. Oh man Every. Single. Time. It's like the first mod when you google "mods to do on subarus " is remove and throw away the heat shield 4 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gibbon Posted July 17, 2021 Author Share Posted July 17, 2021 @kws @cletus What sort of clearance should I be aiming for? I do have the stock heat shielding here but I think it is pretty restrictive Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gibbon Posted July 17, 2021 Author Share Posted July 17, 2021 Goodnight sweet prince, sic itur et cetera 4 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cletus Posted July 17, 2021 Share Posted July 17, 2021 42 minutes ago, gibbon said: @kws @cletus What sort of clearance should I be aiming for? I do have the stock heat shielding here but I think it is pretty restrictive Depends on how much movement there is in the engine mounts but I'd aim for at least 30mm at a minimum, more if you can, to allow enough room for a heat shield and air gap and nothing being able to touch 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gibbon Posted July 18, 2021 Author Share Posted July 18, 2021 Any photos I'd share at this point would be more at home in the Design Disasters thread, but let's just say a new dump pipe has been tacked up which is miles away from the booster and about an inch and a half from the clutch master. What a mission 6 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nominal Posted July 18, 2021 Share Posted July 18, 2021 Every job on a car project is worth doing twice, if not three times. 2 1 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gibbon Posted July 18, 2021 Author Share Posted July 18, 2021 9 minutes ago, Nominal said: Every job on a car project is worth doing twice, if not three times. Yeah I'm really looking forward to pushing my car out into the sun for the first time and seeing how great the paint job really is :/ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gibbon Posted July 18, 2021 Author Share Posted July 18, 2021 Confession time, I couldn't find my welding gloves so did the job today with a pair of rubber gloves. Nothing soothes finger burns like a cold can of beer. Parrotdog IPAs today 1 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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