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KwS Marina Coupe


kws

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just read your awesome update, and watched the video, made me smile also.

i had that same issue with a horrible racket, i thought something very bad happened. also turned out a missing lower alternator bolt on My gemini. took a video of it(queued up to the spot HERE )

 

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  • 2 months later...

I'll stick with the 4 pot. The six makes a great noise, but it wouldn't fit in my car without significant work (mine is pre-025 firewall changes). Not to mention more weight over the front axle seems a bit scary!

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12 hours ago, kws said:

I'll stick with the 4 pot. The six makes a great noise, but it wouldn't fit in my car without significant work (mine is pre-025 firewall changes). Not to mention more weight over the front axle seems a bit scary!

Wheels magazine said the Marina 6 handled like a drunken ballerina.  Read the article here.

Leyland commissioned racecar manufacturer Bowin to do a suspension analysis.  There test driver was John Leffler, a pretty quick F5000 peddler.  The report was dated September 1974, so too late for the recommended changes to make it into production. Read the report here

These are the official powertrain weights from the factory workshop manual :-
E4 - engine 151kg + 4-speed gearbox 21kg = 172kg
E6 - engine 175kg + 3-speed gearbox 41kg = 216kg

For comparison :-
B-series 1800 - engine 195kg + 4-speed gearbox 21kg = 216kg 

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It was the NOISE I was thinking about, but I guess it would be a lot of welding to swap the firewall sections around etc...

If I knew where a cheap Marina Coupe was for sale I would do the swap myself for a COOL track day humour car...!!!

Cheers

Kevin

 

 

 

 

 

 

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If you could find a cheap Coupe and a rotten Six, then you'd need to swap over the firewall and larger trans tunnel, the front suspension and steering rack, the engine and it's unique crossmember, the gearbox and it's unique crossmember, the one-piece driveshaft, the stronger rear axle and the second tramp rod, and decide how to fit the rear dampers (they were relocated on the Six).  But I have see it done on a ute. :thumbright:

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24 minutes ago, Nominal said:

Easier to just jam an LS1 in there.

Disco V8 (the one with the short water pump) and ZF 4HP auto (with BMW tailhousing) fit with no body mods.  Rover LT77 5-speed is too big for the trans tunnel, but Ford Type 9 will fit with a little modding for the shifter.

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LOCOST, That is the one I mentioned above when I started talking about it as a donor!!!

 

In this video at 4:37 there is the Kimberley at Horopito, it shows the engine still in it and roughly where it is in the yard, it may or may not still have the twin carbs on it...

 

 

 

 

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  • 2 months later...

solid repair on the door hinge. is there a thicker pin available and just drill the hole out bigger?

the current door hinge repair reminds me of the falcon XD-XH . early cars had no bush, but later ones had plastic bushes that flogged out heaps sooner (easier to fix at least) aftermarket has made brass bushes.

might be something you can use/adapt for the other side if need be if the ford pins are long enough for your hinges. (no idea on dimensions but i assume you'd get an answer if enquiring with sellers)

8oUhUFb.jpg

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Nothing off the shelf, but no doubt you could easily adapt something to work. These hinges had lasted almost 50 years as it was, so I can't see them wearing out again in my lifetime. 

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  • 5 months later...

@kws depending how bad the high spot is .

You can shrink it down with the mig. Just do a "spot" weld in one spot like you would plug weld. Then cool it with air quickly. Grind the top off. The weld will shrink when you cool it and pull the metal down. 

That's if it's not excessively high

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