SOHC Posted April 1, 2021 Author Share Posted April 1, 2021 Shorted the end of the crank and put the cover on 6 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SOHC Posted April 5, 2021 Author Share Posted April 5, 2021 Got this motor today, it’s an industrial motor but has the mag out the back witch makes things way more easy, it was from a rotory hoe that had a stuffed gearbox and other problems so I didn’t feel so bad. 7 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SOHC Posted April 9, 2021 Author Share Posted April 9, 2021 Took the gearbox apart and as allways 2nd gear has gone through the cace hardening, on the lookout for a clutch, I need the clutch for when I make the engine plates Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SOHC Posted April 14, 2021 Author Share Posted April 14, 2021 I am going to make a Brooklands can, made the fishtail this evening but I have run out of steel for the main body. 8 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SOHC Posted April 15, 2021 Author Share Posted April 15, 2021 I may make another one, with out a fish tail or a smaller fishtail I am not sure I just wanted to make one 8 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SOHC Posted April 16, 2021 Author Share Posted April 16, 2021 Wiped up another muffler as so I can chop and change 8 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SOHC Posted April 25, 2021 Author Share Posted April 25, 2021 Took both motors apart to find the one I want to use has some moisture damage to the shaft, (rollers run directly on the shaft) big end feels really good play wise but probably has the same problem. other motor looks as if it never had an oil change Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SOHC Posted May 9, 2021 Author Share Posted May 9, 2021 Split the crank on one of the motors and rod and crank pin are in good condition, but this crank has a different main shaft, it’s looking like I need to get a new mainshaft made, bathcolector sent me a better one I will see if it cleans up with a grind and O/S rollers, cam pinon gear is pretty bad to. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SOHC Posted May 9, 2021 Author Share Posted May 9, 2021 The timing side bearing on thees JAP engines is a crowded needle roller witch runs directly on the main shaft, they are a real heart breaker. I need to find a way to get the inner bearing shell out of the crank cace 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SOHC Posted May 31, 2021 Author Share Posted May 31, 2021 Laced up the front rim but haven’t tightened the nippels, I got a cople extra spokes and because they are aliexpress shit I did some testing on them to see how strong they are and they seem tougher than the old spokes, sparks fly off them when I hit them with an axe. 6 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SOHC Posted September 5, 2021 Author Share Posted September 5, 2021 Still looking for a set of 37mm honda CB froks or something, Finding someone to make that main shaft is proving to be difficult to Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GregT Posted September 5, 2021 Share Posted September 5, 2021 to remove bearing races from castings, run a ring of weld around the inside. Doesn't matter if it's MIG or TIG. When it cools it shrinks the race and it should drop out. Can you hard chrome and grind the best shaft ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SOHC Posted September 5, 2021 Author Share Posted September 5, 2021 21 minutes ago, GregT said: to remove bearing races from castings, run a ring of weld around the inside. Doesn't matter if it's MIG or TIG. When it cools it shrinks the race and it should drop out. Can you hard chrome and grind the best shaft ? I got the races out of the caces very carefully as i want to re use them, cant chrome the shaft as the rollers run directly on it Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GregT Posted September 5, 2021 Share Posted September 5, 2021 11 hours ago, SOHC said: I got the races out of the caces very carefully as i want to re use them, cant chrome the shaft as the rollers run directly on it Who told you that ? Guy in the UK has been plating early Honda shafts for years with success. Needs a reasonable depth of chrome though. Grind to a fresh surface and about >008in finished thickness. Here in ChCh, Barry lynch was reconning KT100 cranks by hard chroming. Did literally hundreds. Tony Pole electroplating in ChCh if no-one local will play. Ask in the kart world. KT100's are still used. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tortron Posted September 5, 2021 Share Posted September 5, 2021 Doesnt flake off and get redone every season? Could you get a sleeve pressed on SOHC Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SOHC Posted September 5, 2021 Author Share Posted September 5, 2021 Shaft is 19mm and i cant take any more off it, if the sleeve was 1mm thick it would roll it up and blow the motor up, I have had gearbox shafts hard chromed and ground but they didnt have bearings running directly on the surface. The bond of the chrome is not stroung enough Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GregT Posted September 6, 2021 Share Posted September 6, 2021 All right, I'll try once more. The examples i gave - early Honda and KT100 - both run needle rollers direct on the shaft.It's not unusual. In terms of a replacement setup for the rollers to sidestep your perceived problem, I'm sure a roller bearing with inner race could be sourced to replace what you have. If it means skimming the housing in the case out to suit, why not. Personally i'd look at needle rollers with inner races. Nothing wrong with using smaller OD rollers. I've been doing this sort of work-around for years. There's always a way. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SOHC Posted September 6, 2021 Author Share Posted September 6, 2021 21 hours ago, GregT said: All right, I'll try once more. The examples i gave - early Honda and KT100 - both run needle rollers direct on the shaft.It's not unusual. In terms of a replacement setup for the rollers to sidestep your perceived problem, I'm sure a roller bearing with inner race could be sourced to replace what you have. If it means skimming the housing in the case out to suit, why not. Personally i'd look at needle rollers with inner races. Nothing wrong with using smaller OD rollers. I've been doing this sort of work-around for years. There's always a way. I will look into it but everyone has sed dont do it, the big end is oiled thrugh this bearing, the oil is fed into the needed roller main then the bearing extends into the crank slinger, i cant put a sleeve on the shaft because of this, i cant find an INA bearing even close, a ball race bearing cannot be used because of the oiling system. They did make O/S rollers but i cannot find anything and the shaft pitting is too deep Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SOHC Posted September 7, 2021 Author Share Posted September 7, 2021 Just spoke to Trevor Hall and he reckons replace that whole bearing with a bronze bush, lots of bikes ran bushes for main bearings. If i got rid of the inner bearing completely and drilled a hole in the bronze or cut a slot for the big end oil feed would work 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GregT Posted September 7, 2021 Share Posted September 7, 2021 22 minutes ago, SOHC said: Just spoke to Trevor Hall and he reckons replace that whole bearing with a bronze bush, lots of bikes ran bushes for main bearings. If i got rid of the inner bearing completely and drilled a hole in the bronze or cut a slot for the big end oil feed would work Agree. Nothing wrong with a bronze bush there. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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