87creepin Posted April 15 Author Share Posted April 15 DRL overcomplication complete! I disconnected stuff and this front harness from the front radiator support. Here’s my wires prior to covering in conduit, which was then cable tied to the factory harness and then reinstalled It then snakes under the drivers side fender, to under the dash where the relay is I have these knockoff AMP super seal connectors, the plastic is a bit cheap but the pins click in securely and it seems to be weatherproof. (I’ll have to get some legit ones to compare) Unfortunately I only have 2 pin connectors on hand and these have three wires. Rather than overcomplicate with 2x 2 pin connectors, the red ‘drl’ wire is connected with a sheathed spade connector. Shouldn’t be too much drama as it’ll live behind/in the bumper out of the rain. and here’s my 5 pin micro relay diagram (use a small one, big ones take up too much room) it took a while to work this one out; I knew that 85 and 86, when receiving 12v would switch 87a over to 87. But I forgot what I knew about circuits and got hung up on polarity. and also the wiring diagram I was Using wasn’t too helpful. basically, when ignition is ON and when car is running, the DRLs will be on. 87a - 30 and it finds ground through the ground connection I’ve made. but when the headlights are switched on, they find ground through that circuit and the relay pulls 87a to 87. The DRL circuit becomes an open circuit, thus no longer illuminating, and being legal. and extra relay spam that may be helpful to those installing alarms, my outback was a cunt, I couldn’t work out how to get my remote door unlock and lock to work. courtesy of the 12volt Basically I had one wire to a switch in drivers door doing both unlock and lock and some unaccesium at the other end. I now have a working remote for lock and unlock. I’ll spend a bit more time trying to get the lights to flash with on and off as the 12v have a guide on how to do that. wiring in 91 - 97 Toyota > wiring in 98-03 Subaru Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
87creepin Posted April 15 Author Share Posted April 15 I thought it’d be a good idea to install some Makita One Ways, as my subframe is about 150mm off the ground, but all I achieved was a droop of 10mm. unfortunately I found my shocks and top hats were pretty bad shocks were very easily compressed By leaning on them. Rears didn’t even bounce back up. bolted them back in and got this I’d love some coilovers but realistically I need to be road legal so will go with lowering springs and new shocks + top hats. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
87creepin Posted April 15 Author Share Posted April 15 Whilst poking round the fuel tank area for o2 thief countermeasures I noticed the left rear floor was pretty scabby I think moisture has got in after the seam sealer failing. somehow. it’s not a bad window seal or anything as my carpets have never been wet. I know my car isn’t OS as most OS (lol!) But it’s old car things. The oldest car I’ve owned so far, a second gen Prelude, didn’t even have seam sealer on a lot of panels that folded over others. I’ll remove the affected brackets, tidy up; and apply seam sealer once spot welded back in. but I will have to get a spot weld drill bit. And scrape the wrecked under seal off which will be fun. Just to make sure there’s no rust underneath. Can anyone recommend a good similar replacement product? tidy bracket And the poos the seats are the epitome of povo spec. But they’ll go back in for now… Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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