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87Creep's 90s projects: AE101, SW20, GF8 WRX


87creepin

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Obligatory Barry sharn ~ Unfortunately I got into owning and playing with cars late, early 20s, before that I had a strict upbringing, no old cars no beers go to university catch a bus finish in the clubs by 1am etc, and my first car was a 04 Swift but we wont talk about that!

Let's kick it off with my oldest OS thing I've owned so far. Its young by OS standards but I will eventually grow a pair and go full carb and solid axle.

A 1987 Prelude 4WS Si! Auto, sunroof, 197000kms!

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My 96 WRX - then used daily - was leaking coolant and I needed a daily. A normal person would get something reliable, wof reg, maybe even finance a modern thing. Not me! I went and bought a prelude that hadn't had a wof/reg in 8 years because I thought I loved OS Hondas and it was amazing. 

Admittedly I studied and worked part time in 2019, so when I did drive this like an idiot it was only on weekends. Admittedly did take it out for a cheeky drive or two but the fuel gauge wasn't working, probably because the fuel sender unit was rusted bad.

I then routinely got a reliable daily and loaded this thing up on a trailer and sent it to scrap after parting most of it out. 

It was a great learning experience. The USDM manual was super in depth and helpful as I replaced the naffed main relay that someone had rangi'd a power wire from battery to fuel pump, no longer having to disconnect battery every time. There were wire taps all over the show, and corroded plugs causing electrical issues that I managed to sort.

I did flush the brakes on it, fit new chinese tyres and a battery, but that's as far as I got. 

I knew it had rust around the sunroof and the tails but damn there was a lot under the wiper cowl. Plus it had allegedly had the tags/chassis codes cut and replaced.. a mate said it looked dodge. 

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The engine also leaked oil profusely, mainly from the rear seal and the sump rtv. I even made the mistake of touching the high pressure power steering line and it pissed so much fluid over my alternator it rekt it.

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Didn't have much in the sills/pillars etc but I was a bit err about trying fab/buying replacement panel$$$, my decision was made easier when I went to strip the engine bay and attempt removing the b20a5, and also turbocharging options being limited. 

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My manual G-limited (NA) sw20, got it in 2015 for 2800 with 197000kms. 

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Got it to learn manual in, learned how to do oil changes and other basic stuff with. At this point I spent alot of time online reading speedhunters etc and watching mighty car mods. Admittedly fell into the RWD>everything trap.

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Only mods are re003/s001 potenza tyres, Rays Versus Valvoles 17x8.5 (only on rear, one front got murked hitting something hard), Bill Stein OEM black shocks, eibach pro kit springs, and a Border front bumper.

Spent the next 3 years driving like a dick, had a few crashes and ended up in a ditch which led it to sit neglected for a while. 

Hired out a ute and read the contract after "do not use for towing vehicles" and then picked up a car trailer from hirefool and promptly tied it down like I knew what I was doing. 

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Now it's back home, I'm in the process of repairing it. One side was dented, I've bogged the rear quarter, replaced the door and guard. The other side is sweet apart from a few small dings.. but the front suspension took a hit and the wheel+tyre got rekt.

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I've replaced tie rod mount, LCA, but have to fix the subframe mount for the lca as it bore the brunt of the impact. I'm gonna try hitting it back straight.

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Currently have to finish small bogging, sand+prep and prep my shed for paint. Got some repairs around the windscreen including glass too, but gonna do it in a nice red. Maybe current model corolla red? Mazda soul red is a nice colour but pity nearly every current mazda is soul red. 

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After the lockdown (first lockdown to those in Auckland lol) I decided enough was enough and got the most reliable car I could think of without going too boring. 

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Nz new 4AFE powered ae101, 5 speed manual with 267000km for 1200. Bought a VIP intercity ticket to wellington thinking I would be getting leather seats and reclining spaces, all I got was a rude driver and to sit upstairs. 

Turns out it had a full service history book and had been looked after which was cool. After a sketchy winter hoon through the desert road on 175 profile cracked/old chinese wofable tyres I fitted the wheels from my prelude with my brand new 195/65 chinese tyres, gave it a cut and polish, changed all filters+oil coolant and spark plugs. 

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It currently gets approx 15km/l

I've since fitted 35% tints, tardme DRLs and a front lip that was going to be binned at work. Lip is just a bit of fun for now, yes it's fugly but I like it. Will tidy up the wiring and properly align the drls later.

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  • 2 weeks later...

I've been working on my MR2 because I want to sell it, dont think I mentioned that but I am repairing it to sell. Hopefully proceeds go to a house deposit, or I get to spend a little on mods/buy something OS

After consulting a few panelbeater bros and mixed responses like "that's fuckt" and "just sand it and paint black bro" I got the response I was looking for in a wheel alignment expert, he said the damage to my lca mount wont be too much of a problem. 

So I promptly got to straightening it out a little, hit it with some steel rod and a 3lb sledgehammer. It made a difference, though not 100%. Did touch up some surface rust with a grinder and wire wheel followed by brunox and under seal.

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Also will try soaking these radiator support brackets in white vinegar, see how it goes. 

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Dodgy fuses

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Also stripped the side, could partially see how bad it was but now get the full picture. Note drivers side for comparison. 

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I've then got the factory service manual for this car and gone and measured the chassis dimensions to determine how bad things are. They say 3mm is the tolerance. I've written down where mine varies. I'm not yet done measuring everything but I will get there, will also macgyver up a decent ruler with two adjustable sharp point things for better accuracy.

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The plan now is to get a beefy slide hammer and pull out the damage on the lower a pillar, see what else I can do etc and then remeasure and hopefully it's better. If it's still not good then, then I will invest in a portapower and find a tree/pole to help pull things out. I think the telltale signs are that seam sealer/spot welds have been adjusted, and theres a small hairline crack in the factory underseal just at the start of the floor pan. 

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TBH, I know what I need to do with the MR2 but I'm kinda over it right now as I did want to get it painted before it gets too cold. Now I'll just pull/attempt to the damage out and hopefully get chassis sussed and just park it in storage while I collect parts/tools/spend on other shit over the winter. No point in stripping it if I'm towing it, best to be safe with working lights etc.

But with recent developments I decided f**k it and...

I finally shelled out for genuine parts, and against the grain didn't go the chinese fleabay route.

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HKS High performance air induction super mega flow reloaded! Lol I've pined over HKS forever despite being warned in many a youtube review reporting them as bad for filtration etc and just overall sucking compared to others.

I got it from redline performance for $149, i bought the Civic EG6 kit. The throttle body is 2.5" so run an adapter to 3". I adjusted the bracket and just drilled a 10mm hole in the hose for my air temp sensor; it's more like 13mm at its widest so shouldn't be leaking as its jammed in.

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The initial plan was to go hunnitz and bore out the above hole for a big blingin 3" alloy pipe to put the filter in behind the bumper, but upon consultation with wof virms/lvvta/cert thread on OS I decided best to stay legal for now.

Couldn't help myself during the week though and got this from China

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Will route flexi piping through said little hole and hopefully it is sufficient.

Took it for a hoon tonight, and wow 10/10 impressed with the results. I guess it may have made some small gains performance wise... but sound wise it sounds fucking mint, wide open throttle in 2nd/3rd is just really deep and loud, but cruising (yep I've got stock exhaust) it is still quiet which is to be expected which is fine.

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  • 1 month later...

SW:

I've decided that I'll get the chassis straightened up professionally at work. Hopefully it all goes to plan. Currently, I've just been focusing on getting it "sorted". That entails sussing out the suspension, as younger me installed lowering springs to see what it'd look like (post-crash), without doing it right. 

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So far I've installed:

3/4 strut boot kits (repco messed up my order)

4x sway bar end links (from rock auto, old ones were seized)

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Waiting on:

Spring insulators, dust seals, brake hose clips (Amayama) Tie rod outer, ball joints, caliper repair kit, caliper slide boots, rear pads (Rock Auto) Need: gear knob, 2nd hand rh wing mirror and lhr strut mount 

I found that one side rear brake pads had severe uneven wear, so I'll rebuild that. 

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The plan is to have it ready enough that it can be driven round the yard under it's own power, and be alright to be towed there with a rope.

Also re-painted my calipers while they were out, as well as finished up some bog jobs and covered them with 1k primer

 

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AE101: 

A mate told me the rest of my engine bay looked dirty with clean parts hanging off one end 

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Called up my old $4 friend can of motortech underseal to help, followed with 2k clear

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Did the intake manifold and exhaust heat shield in high temp black 

Installed my pipe thing 

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Replaced old brake fluid

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Enjoyed some low speed hoons

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Downloaded an app called "PerfExpert", it's an app that using a lot of parameters and calibration allows you to turn any quiet straight country road into your own personal street dyno.

Using 98, this is what I achieved: 

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I think I got better more accurate results on a later go at it as this was my first. But last night I checked my ignition timing with the goal of advancing it by a couple of degrees to see if this (which is commonly discussed as a way to increase power) would work for me. 

Unfortunately I was running at 0deg BTDC, whereas factory spec is +10deg BTDC. I wasn't able to get it beyond +10 due to the limits of the adjustment brackets. 

Took it out for a blat on +10deg and on 98:

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Great success! I recommend getting this app for the price of a box or maccas share meal as it is more accurate than butt dyno measurements and you can work out if changes you make make any difference. 

So, I will do more testing with 98!

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  • 3 weeks later...

Got dust seals, spring insulators and two new brake hose clips from amayama, rockauto order also came in and was much faster than amayama.

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Also got some nylock nuts for strut mounts and front sway end links, $25 for 6x m14x1.5 and 4 m10x1.25 from theboltholder.co.nz

Also decided one caliper rebuild was lazy so ordered parts for other side, nek minnit decided to rebuild the fronts too. Got pads and rebuild kits for remaining 3 calipers for $100 from Rockauto.

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also got new tools, caliper wind back kit, cylinder hone and a grease gun. The ball joints came with nipples that caused clearance issues with the rest of the hub so I got m6x1.00 bolts from mitre10 and grinded them down to 10mm thread which is similar to what the grease nipple has / also shaved a few mm from the heads just to get clearance 100%. The alternative was letting grease escape through the hole and allowing dirt gunk etc in through said hole.

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I did alot of research on what grease.. I chose Castrol LMM for the ball joints as according to the product data sheet it's good for high loads/shock and Ultratak 2 for the brakes as it's a lithium complex silicone based grease and has a high drop point = high temp/good for corrosive environments.

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Also went over the brake rotors with a wire wheel then masked, rust treated with brunox and given a few coats of high temp black. Interesting to note that the fronts are similar size to the rear, they are quite small!

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Currently my front suspension is all back together except for the sway bar, took a while but I cleaned up threads of old green threadlocker (I only have red loctite, should I invest in medium strength stuff?) Rust and gunk etc, applied copper grease, torqued to spec.

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  • 4 weeks later...

Pic-less update, RIP phone

I'm currently in the process of moving home - which means getting the cars all ready to move, packing up all my shit etc. 

I haven't done anything to the AE101 but install some $50 tard roof racks. I had to cut them down by about 170mm, drill holes, file, rivet, but they worked great when I went to Levin/Wellington to sell Prelude parts/bring back a WRX bonnet. 

This was after I strapped Prelude bonnet down and took it for some night testing round town, safety 1st etc. 

SW - unfortunately I wrecked the slide boots that are hammered in with a socket round em. So I had to wait for another rockauto package. The brakes are now in and bled. The suspension is all back together too. 

Admittedly, I had been umming and ahhing about two parts that I needed, namely a RH wing mirror and a LHR strut mount. I had stripped a bolt out of my wing mirror mount and the strut mount had a snapped stud.

With quotes of around $120 for both I decided fuck that and attempted to (gas less mig) weld in new studs. The wing mirror failed because the only steel I had was the stripped bolt remains, being an aluminium item. It didn't work, so I just tapped new threads, threadlocked a bolt in and grinded the head off it. The strut mount worked fine, but I think I'll just purchase new for $120 or wait for the Monroe part to come in stock on rockauto. It is a temporary solution. 

Also reassembled lights, front bumper, side vents and other panels, spent way too long dicking around with fitting my bumper and panel gaps. Admittedly the border bumper I have needs a bit of work to get it to that OEM nice gap look. 

Put in 5l of fresh gas as well as some injector cleaner, cleaned the throttle body and its almost ready to roll. 

I've just got to Solder 284899 wires for my driver door harness tomorrow as the guy who sold me the door cut the harness in the dickiest of places, so I'll put the door on a stand to save the remaining sanity I do have. Good thing I fully stripped my old door before I biffed it, I've got the connectors. 

Then I'll just have to give it a wipe down (dust bog dust crap, plus primer so can't wash with water), vacuum and refit the interior and ugga dugg my wheels and take it for a little drive. 

GF8 - spent a few arvos ripping off my intake manifold to install some new water pipe seals and a hose I had laying about. I had considered the seals to be responsible for leaking coolant. Refitted everything, bled coolant, no change in levels after idling. Also dumped 5l of fresh fuel and injector cleaner into it. No mixing of oil and water, no leaks, a minor miracle signs pointed to no BHG! 

Also got some proper wing nut terminals as the only battery I have in a suitable layout for this car (other than a shitty one) has universal terminals. Before, it didn't have a good enough connection to start every time. 

I then didn't take it for a hoon down a local highway, which, in town, felt kinda sloppy with a floppy shifter and shitty split Hoses (turbo intake and intercooler-turbo) but damn it felt and sounded good...then on the way back the thermostat must've opened up cos all my coolant pissed out somewhere in the water pipe and the temp gauge went up. 

I'll have to get a pressure tester and possibly a brand new $300 water pipe. I'd rather do that for peace of mind than get a second hand one that's probably been run on tap water since being imported from Japan. 

 

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  • 3 weeks later...

A brief update:

SW20: moved it out of home to storage, cleaned throttle body and decided that was enough dick punch in the engine bay for me. Had a bit of detonation on the drive but that will be sorted. Suspension clunked a bit, could be because things still settling, did install springs properly, but also could be because I ugga dugged every bolt on in a hurry. 

Also brakes were a bit too spongy. I did bleed them more than once but I think I'll need a vacuum bleeder rather than the cheap one man bleeder I've got...

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Looks kinda weird half done but trims installed etc. But I may be able to take it for a small drive round the yard to see if suspension is settled. Please excuse unfinishedness, number plate will be centred when finished. 

It'll stay, until it is time for it to get its chassis straightened (save $$$) 

GF8: Got a puncture I think from pulling over onto dodgy country roadsides, nails, glass etc. Sucks balls. But got a $9 water pipe from PaP (was actually like $25 because I didn't remove sensors and because got a mean lady at the desk) so it may work?

Awesome Subie lego, got it from an EJ25 Outback, but there were many other subaru that I could've got the part from. The right hand head of this engine had orangey goo in the water jacket, whereas the left was pristine and green. I'm guessing it came to PaP because it had a blown head gasket, which the first gen ej25s are renown for. 

AE101: got a replacement wiper arm because the spring flew out of one of mine during the heavy rain 2 weekends ago. No more 1 wiper in the middle lol. The corolla has been doing ute duties moving shit, roof rack fully loaded, rear sacked out, no pics but I will get some when I have a new phone.

Also scored some factory option period correct  Pioneer parcel shelf speakers. They're no ts-x10s but they'll do for now.

Resisted spending all my money on throttle bodies as I want ITBs.. But while space is limited for now I'll play around with fusion 360 and see if I can come up with something that'll work. 

Speaking of ITBs, I will probably have to look at giving my injectors a good clean first. This is because currently I get a little bit of detonation in some full throttle situations and I guess that my current intake set up gets a bit too much air. If this fails I could either just use 98 octane, retard the ignition timing a degree or two? Or possibly go to a hotter spark plug, perhaps. 

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  • 2 months later...

I've found the source of my leak in my Subaru. Bought a radiator pressure test kit and found the hose causing the problems. I'm gonna order it from amayama and a few other hoses. 

Will also get an intake Hose as mine is holey, and sort out a solution to the turbo-ic hose, so it doesn't run like a bag of dicks (which it currently does due to vacuum/boost leaks) 

On my trips to PaP/Zebra I've looked for a few no longer available new parts, namely the reservoir hose and the pipe it connects to (21141 below) 680L4SU.jpg

as well as PCV bits, but it's quite hard as early turbos usually get parted out for $$$$ and several bits are exclusive to the early turbo models like mine. 

I took my Corolla for a wof, it failed on rust and rear brakes sticking. 

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It looked like my wheel cylinders were leaking on to the springs.. With help from the tech spam thread I took the drums off and adjusted them, wound em in, found the wheels rotated better, put a bit of grease on them and cleaned em out. I'll probably get new wheel cylinders as available on rockauto and cheap. Then yanked handbrake 847271 times while driving to 70km or so. 

As for the rust, it was on the radiator lower support and fuel tank mount..simply sanded, brunox treated, and painted. 

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But there was a hole in my wheel arch, so I grinded it back and put in some metal bird poop til there wasn't any/much visible light coming through the hole.. 

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As for mods, ITBs can wait (for a long time) and I'll look to sort the knocking on 91. However on 98 no knocking to report.

Tyres have to be a priority, because my Chinese tyres are super sketch in the wet. I've got my eyes on these reps, in 15x8 +0 offset which would be perfect wrapped in 205/50r15 Advans. 

Ive managed to get some snow chains for $1.50 off the tard, and I'm in the process of getting some sounds in the daily. Doing it on a budget - 

These speakers cost $24 from PaP, from a higher spec nz new early model ae101

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These were $12 from Zebra, 6" American hi fi speakers to replace my stock 4.5". Out of a Subie Forester, complete with Subie spec twist n tape

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I paid $51 for this "unused" (seems to be at face value) 10" bazooka sub, from the tard

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I'll be using this Sony Xplod amp that I've had for about 3 years in a box, paid some silly amount for it from ripco back in the day. 

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Ripped out my stock, non functional headunit 

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Still waiting on a head unit, a sheet of Ply to make my adapters and a mount for the amp, wiring kit, Crimping tool/kit. 

Probably will just run a 3 speaker set up, as it's a 4 channel amp. Dunno much about car audio, this is my first go, may or may not be worth it running 4 speakers + amp - I have an old jvc drvn 400w amp kicking about that I could use too?? 

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Whipped in some LED strips to replace the solitary 5v bulb that was in there... To be honest an LED bulb would've worked...

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Made some adapters for the speakers, using a bit of baking paper and a vivid to make a template of the shape needed. Not pretty, I used a jigsaw and drill, with various bits, including spade bits. I got a rotary tool to replace my dremel for this, it was pretty useless. 

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Managed to wire up the headunit, initially bought an ISO car side harness cos the headunit came with a harness, too bad the seller mangled one end of the stereo harness, negating the need for an iso harness as I'd need to wire it in without connectors... 

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I did it using solder splices. No pics, but they're essentially plastic sleeves with solder inside that you slide over your wires and just use a lighter/heat gun to shrink and melt the solder. Get them from ebay/aliex, you can get them locally but they are $$$. 

Unfortunately the rest of my stuff hasn't come, cos car audio shop couldn't ship during level 4. However this did give me the chance to change my order, refunded the iso harness and got some Sony 6.5" speakers. Because one of my speakers went hard for what it was, whereas the other hardly went. I thought about just swapping in some from my Subaru, but tested them and they're shit too. 

Sometimes being cheap works, sometimes it doesn't. 

While I wait for the rest of the stuff, I'm making an amp rack. It will sit in the frame just behind the seats. It fits snugly, but I will make some small brackets to secure it, hopefully I can get away without drilling into the car as unsure of legality of drilling..

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I'll design it to be "semi-quick release", with connectors for the smaller gauge wires. Unfortunately I don't have any for the larger wires, so it is what it is. 

Quick release is cool, because this car is used for ute duties. And slooow hoonage. 

Oh yeah, and I also retarded the timing to 12deg+ btdc, a safe +2. Some dummy didn't lock out the ignition timing when he/she/they set the timing and it was at +20deg btdc. Nice. 

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Tonight decided to test out my rear speakers. Great success, they work great. One starts to get a bit crackly at louder volumes. 

Once I install the amp and sub I'll keep them hooked up to the headunit. If they sound too stink then I'll disconnect them. 

This means I don't have to just listen to one speaker to and from work while I wait for the rest of the stuff to show up. 

Amp is mounted to the board thing, and I made some brackets to help secure it. I think I'll order some velcro though just to keep it moving side to side. 

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Hey man, re: your crackly speakers If they have been in storage for a bit they probably have a little grit or dust in them. 

Have revived speakers before by wiring them up to a small stereo just to get them making some sound and flip them over cone facing down on the work bench and leave them for the day.

Crunchy bits fall out and your good to go. Better living every one......

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A package arrived from wavetech.co.nz on Saturday, they're Canterbury-based and pretty good.

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this meant that I could disconnect the parcel shelf speakers. It's a shame as they're pretty well positioned but I will keep them in the car for period correct stz. 

I had a yarn with a colleague/the only other guy at work with an amp/sub and he suggested wiring speakers straight to the head unit. His reasoning being that connected to the amp you'd get more distortion and an aftermarket hu is powerful enough to power the speakers. I replied that I believed it would be better if I wired speakers to the amp and used the high/low pass filter as what the instructions said. Anyway, I tried his method because easier to use existing wiring, and found that the (52w x 4 rated) headunit would cut out at higher volumes and even blew a fuse once. I narrowed it down to the headunit not being powerful enough by turning amp gain to 0 and then testing with amp/sub disconnected.

EDIT: I remember reading something about factory power wires being pretty bad. Maybe I should try wiring the power wire straight to battery, rather than using factory wiring? And possibly make a better ground... hmmmmmm

Other than that, everything works great - but I will route some new wiring from the speakers to the amp and give that a go. 

Also, I was a bit stumped by the lack of grommets in the firewall.. eventually I worked out the large harness runs through the left wheel arch/pillar area and with a bit of welding wire I managed to get the power wire through. Cabled tied it next to an existing harness in the wheel arch and through a factory hole near the battery for a tidy-ish install. 

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Without a wiring diagram and unwilling to buy a FSM (pretty hard to find a pdf to be honest, for such a common car) I managed to sift through all the rubbish info on the net and found some reliable and guaranteed-to-work info on wiring for the head unit ~ reposting here to make it easier to find

AE101 Corolla -- Sony headunit (older model, pre-2012)

Constant 12v: Blue/yellow -- Yellow

Switched 12v: Grey -- Red

Ground: Brown -- Black

Illuminate: Green -- N/A

LF +: Pink -- White

LF -: Purple -- White/black

RF +: Light green -- Grey

RF -: Blue -- Grey/black

LR +: Black -- Green

LR -: Yellow -- Green/black

RR +: Red -- Purple

RR -: White -- Purple/black

Antenna Remote: N/A -- Blue

Amp Remote: N/A -- Blue/white

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Rockauto order came

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Good timing, as that day driving home from work I went to heel-toe round a corner and the brakes felt weird. Braked again and ooh shit, suspected a loss of brake fluid. Found the culprit, RR side had brake fluid all over it and inside the drum was a mess (no pics, very messy hands). This side scored 110 on the WOF test.

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Admittedly took me well into the wee hours of the night - I did this job with a Chrisfix video to help - only to find rockauto sent me one wheel cylinder that fitted and one that didn't. Called round to local suppliers, managed to get one from Part Master for $23 and fortunately it fit. Bled and finished the following evening.

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the better of the two, 'before' reference pic

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Finished goodness

Also installed new NGK blue spark plug leads, nothing wrong with the old ones, just these looked cool, and can't go wrong with preventative maintenance. Also installed power wire for head unit direct to battery, this was done a few days prior

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Might be worth a good excuse to take out for a Perfexpert dyno test lol? "how many hersprs do performance spark plug leads make?" probably 0.

Also got some RCA y-splitters from Wavetech. I'll use these to hook my speakers up to the amp rather than head unit.

RJi71co.jpeg

The plan now is to run new speaker wiring to the amp, install some new clips I've got for the trim (and the pictured window winder clips, I lost one), give the car a good vac and tidy up and take it for a WOF this week..Admittedly I could've asked to be given a re-inspection today but since it's been 1 day more than the allowed 28 days even with lockdown I did do 1300km since initial inspection. I doubt they would be keen on re-inspecting with that many km done since. So I will take the opportunity to try out a new WOF place.

 

 

 

 

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