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ThePog is yet again forced to learn shit about 4afe engines


ThePog
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21 minutes ago, ajg193 said:

How did she blow the engine?

It has always used a little bit of oil, I suspect she let it get too low. I did warn her...

She was on her way to their fav isolated hangout spot, so maybe previous 8k nangs out there have contributed.

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9 hours ago, ThePog said:

@kws Can you tell me if there are any differences between auto and manual 4afes? she has blown the engine, I have found a couple at the wreckers, one auto one manual. I'll grab the best looking one assuming there are no differences...

I believe the engines themselves are the same, just ecu, wiring etc different.

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Ha, I pulled the head and there was a fuckton of dirty cokey stuff that had fallen to one side and compacted. This was stopping all the cylinders from reaching tdc. I thought it was weird that at least two cylinders were not moving all the way.

Cleaned it all out and it looks pretty good, I suspect the engine has had a rebuild cos there is almost no ring lip and you can see hone marks on the bore. The head looks ok but is dirty as fuck. I'll see what the head on the toast engine looks like cos at least I know it was a good runner.

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I pulled a bearing cap and that looked good too, maybe I'll see what a set of bearings will cost now it's this far apart.

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  • ThePog changed the title to ThePog is yet again forced to learn shit about 4afe engines

Id just slap it back together and send it :p is the original motor salvageable? could always do bearings on that as a swap out for later if need be? didn't realize the Carib wagons had a 4afe variant thought they where all 4age (BT) or 7afe

Are the pistons standard size? because that looks like factory hone marks in the bores to me

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14 minutes ago, shrike said:

Id just slap it back together and send it :p is the original motor salvageable? could always do bearings on that as a swap out for later if need be? didn't realize the Carib wagons had a 4afe variant thought they where all 4age (BT) or 7afe

Are the pistons standard size? because that looks like factory hone marks in the bores to me

Its been apart by the looks of the sealant on the sump and in a couple of places around the head. Its grey, I guess it might be factory. Its had a new water pump and the cambelt done twice at 60k intervals, that seems a bit overkill. The cambelt is ok, but I will put the belt and waterpump from the other engine on it as those are only a few thousand kms old.

The spark plugs had a lot of wear though, so I am guessing the second owner didnt care as much as the first.

I will have a look at the other engine once the car is sorted, but from the sounds it was making I reckon thats going to be pointless...

 

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I sometimes wonder what happened to the engines from our Corollas that were written off by that drunk driver one night.

Either some people got two of the healthiest 4A-F/4A-FE engine's to ever grace our wreckers or they got turned into tin cans. Would have been an absolute shame if they were scrapped.

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22 hours ago, ajg193 said:

I sometimes wonder what happened to the engines from our Corollas that were written off by that drunk driver one night.

Either some people got two of the healthiest 4A-F/4A-FE engine's to ever grace our wreckers or they got turned into tin cans. Would have been an absolute shame if they were scrapped.

Yea I wish the wreckers cared enough to write a little cheat sheet for all the engines, it would make choosing a lot easier.

I am disconnecting shit on the car right now, is it worth trying to get it out without the gearbox attached?

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I tried to remove a 4afe from a Corolla once.  There was a loom running under the inlet manifold held on with flange nuts we could neither feel, nor see.

It got so hard, (and it turned out the 5a we'd been sold to replace it was very very different) that we gave up, and sent the shitter to pick a part. (Who commented that it didnt have a straight panel on it)

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Pull the engine out with the loom attached, its really quite easy. The engine side of the loom disconnects from the dash loom and ECU in the center console, and then pulls through a grommet in the firewall. I think the engine bay fuse box came out with it too.

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22 minutes ago, kws said:

Pull the engine out with the loom attached, its really quite easy. The engine side of the loom disconnects from the dash loom and ECU in the center console, and then pulls through a grommet in the firewall. I think the engine bay fuse box came out with it too.

So of I take out the glove box I should be able to see it?

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7 hours ago, ThePog said:

So of I take out the glove box I should be able to see it?

You need to disassemble half the dash to remove it (glovebox, knee panel on RH side, center console, center stack), its in the center stack below the radio. It depends what you're more comfortable doing; if unplugging stuff blindly from the engine is easier, proceed as you were.

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you have to unplug all the plugs on the engine eventually anyway. so may as well just do it that way? toyota makes all the plugs different, so cant get it wrong on if just go full retard and dont label anything.      shouldn't be that hard to pull the engine and box out together.   just time because lots of stuff to unbolt on silly fwd.  took me at least twice as long to pull the 20v out of my corolla than  in rwd format.   

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This cunting thing.

Hey @kpr (or anyone) is it reasonable to just take the engine out? I have just realised that the driveshafts socket into the tranny and need to be removed along with the wheels etc. This is irritating as I have it up on my big ramps resting on the wheels so it wasnt all at knee height. I cant decide if doing that is less work than trying to unbolt the engine from the tranny and pulling it that way....

Everything else but the engine mounts have been disconnected.

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Haven't done it myself on that chassis.   but  you may get away with it.  will likely still need to take the gearbox mounts off. so can push it aside and down a bit. so have enough room to slide the engine off the gearbox input shaft before it his the chassis rail.   It wont be much fun. 

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Just now, kpr said:

Haven't done it myself on that chassis.   but  you may get away with it.  will likely still need to take the gearbox mounts off. so can push it aside and down a bit. so have enough room to slide the engine off the gearbox input shaft before it his the chassis rail.   It wont be much fun. 

yea it looks like a nightmare either way. I'll leave it for today, then probably just get cracking on the driveshaft removal... although it does look removing the central gearbox mount will let the whole engine pivot up quite a lot. Ill worry about it tomorrow.

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