Dell'orto Posted November 27, 2021 Share Posted November 27, 2021 If its auto, it might be a dick to line up the torque converter when you reinstall it (unless you're taking the box out after?). If you've got big axle stands, they'll make your life way easier than ramps! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ThePog Posted November 27, 2021 Author Share Posted November 27, 2021 9 minutes ago, Dell'orto said: If its auto, it might be a dick to line up the torque converter when you reinstall it (unless you're taking the box out after?). If you've got big axle stands, they'll make your life way easier than ramps! Snap! 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ThePog Posted November 27, 2021 Author Share Posted November 27, 2021 Also; 5 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RUNAMUCK Posted November 27, 2021 Share Posted November 27, 2021 I hope you're making your daughter help? If she experiences this misery for herself, she'll quickly learn about checking oil/water/investigating funny smells etc. That's why most of us will pull over when we detect something is amiss..... 1 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ThePog Posted November 27, 2021 Author Share Posted November 27, 2021 She has helped a bit, but it is exam time in her final year, so I'm not going to worry too much. She will be paying for all the parts though... 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ThePog Posted November 28, 2021 Author Share Posted November 28, 2021 Ah this is such a cunt. Every time I think it can come out there is more shit that needs removed. Now it won't come out through the bonnet cos the rear engine mount hits the steering rack, I only discovered the rear mount late in the game and had to remove the inlet manifold to get at that.. but I can't get to the bolt so undid the bolts that mount it to the engine support, those are what is stopping it. So it looks like I will need to drop it, but I'm not sure I can remove the central engine support. I am grumpy and my back hurts now. It's getting close to being a scrapper. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
h4nd Posted November 28, 2021 Share Posted November 28, 2021 Is this one of those, 'all easy if you lift the body off the k-frame' jobbies? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ThePog Posted November 28, 2021 Author Share Posted November 28, 2021 Yea if I fully dismantle the front suspension it will be easy. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ThePog Posted November 29, 2021 Author Share Posted November 29, 2021 Fucking finally 6 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xsspeed Posted November 29, 2021 Share Posted November 29, 2021 I'm enjoying the 3rd party fwd pain, good jerb keep it up 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ThePog Posted November 29, 2021 Author Share Posted November 29, 2021 22 minutes ago, xsspeed said: I'm enjoying the 3rd party fwd pain, good jerb keep it up I am pleased to be of service. The resulting hole looks disproportionately large considering how hard it was to get out and the size of the lump. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RUNAMUCK Posted November 29, 2021 Share Posted November 29, 2021 You can see why ours took its last ride to pick a part. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kws Posted November 30, 2021 Share Posted November 30, 2021 That looks familiar. I didnt realise it was on a 111. Piece of piss to pull the engine and box out. The worst part if its auto is removing the gearbox mount due to space. The rear mount is best done through the RH wheel arch with as many long extensions as you can find. I do remember we needed a ton of angle on the leveller to get the engine in and out. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ThePog Posted November 30, 2021 Author Share Posted November 30, 2021 1 hour ago, kws said: That looks familiar. I didnt realise it was on a 111. Piece of piss to pull the engine and box out. The worst part if its auto is removing the gearbox mount due to space. The rear mount is best done through the RH wheel arch with as many long extensions as you can find. I do remember we needed a ton of angle on the leveller to get the engine in and out. All of this. I have been stripping the fucked engine and already found that the camshaft pulley bolt hole is shattered, and what appears to be water hissed from the cambearing bolts in a couple of places. It's all spinning freely though, I'll get the sump off tonight. The new engine does not have hole for the knock sensor, I may have to gently drill that out and tap it. Any suggestions? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ThePog Posted November 30, 2021 Author Share Posted November 30, 2021 Hmm. I have pulled all the big end caps off and it all looks not fucked. Not super clean and with no wear, but not toast either. I wonder if the noise was just that cam pully flopping about. No idea what would cause that. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ThePog Posted December 8, 2021 Author Share Posted December 8, 2021 Ah so this thing continues to kick me in the balls. It's all back together with the original engine, cams from the new engine swapped over, new big end bearings etc. But the fucker won't start. I have checked the following; - Cam timing is good, I gave it all the care. - spark timing is set to 10 deg - all the plugs are definitely plugged in - it has fuel pressure - it runs briefly if you spray it with engine start - it won't fucking start I'm pretty sure the injectors just aren't firing. Could the dizzy be fucked? Please send help/nudes @kws @ajg193 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ajg193 Posted December 8, 2021 Share Posted December 8, 2021 Auto neutral switch? 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sidewaysickness Posted December 8, 2021 Share Posted December 8, 2021 Is the crank angle sensor triggering correctly? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mjrstar Posted December 8, 2021 Share Posted December 8, 2021 Wife had one of those for a few years, great car, they have rfid or whatever in the key and will turn over with dead/broken key but not start.. Otherwise power feed / fuse for the injectors would be where I would start. Most likely with a screwdriver on the injectors to listen to them click or volt meter to see them energized. I know little of the automatics but I would suspect that it wouldn't turn over at all if the inhibitor switch wasn't met. / put some petrol in it. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kws Posted December 8, 2021 Share Posted December 8, 2021 As mentioned, check if the injectors are getting power/firing. If not, could be a relay/fuse/distributor/ground. Check everything is plugged in and all the grounds are connected. Immobilisers seem to be rare, and depending on various factors. Being a jap import i suspect it wont have it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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