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ThePog again needs tech info about Carib shitboxes


ThePog

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9 minutes ago, Dell'orto said:

If its auto, it might be a dick to line up the torque converter when you reinstall it (unless you're taking the box out after?). 

If you've got big axle stands, they'll make your life way easier than ramps! 

Snap!

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Ah this is such a cunt. Every time I think it can come out there is more shit that needs removed. Now it won't come out through the bonnet cos the rear engine mount hits the steering rack, I only discovered the rear mount late in the game and had to remove the inlet manifold to get at that.. but I can't get to the bolt so undid the bolts that mount it to the engine support, those are what is stopping it.

So it looks like I will need to drop it, but I'm not sure I can remove the central engine support. I am grumpy and my back hurts now.

It's getting close to being a scrapper.

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22 minutes ago, xsspeed said:

I'm enjoying the 3rd party fwd pain, good jerb keep it up

I am pleased to be of service.

The resulting hole looks disproportionately large considering how hard it was to get out and the size of the lump.

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That looks familiar. I didnt realise it was on a 111. Piece of piss to pull the engine and box out. The worst part if its auto is removing the gearbox mount due to space.

DSC05147.jpg

The rear mount is best done through the RH wheel arch with as many long extensions as you can find. I do remember we needed a ton of angle on the leveller to get the engine in and out.

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1 hour ago, kws said:

That looks familiar. I didnt realise it was on a 111. Piece of piss to pull the engine and box out. The worst part if its auto is removing the gearbox mount due to space.

DSC05147.jpg

The rear mount is best done through the RH wheel arch with as many long extensions as you can find. I do remember we needed a ton of angle on the leveller to get the engine in and out.

All of this.

I have been stripping the fucked engine and already found that the camshaft pulley bolt hole is shattered, and what appears to be water hissed from the cambearing bolts in a couple of places. It's all spinning freely though, I'll get the sump off tonight.

The new engine does not have hole for the knock sensor, I may have to gently drill that out and tap it. Any suggestions?

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Ah so this thing continues to kick me in the balls.

It's all back together with the original engine, cams from the new engine swapped over, new big end bearings etc.

But the fucker won't start. I have checked the following;

- Cam timing is good, I gave it all the care.

- spark timing is set to 10 deg

- all the plugs are definitely plugged in

- it has fuel pressure

- it runs briefly if you spray it with engine start

- it won't fucking start

I'm pretty sure the injectors just aren't firing. Could the dizzy be fucked?

Please send help/nudes

@kws @ajg193

 

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Wife had one of those for a few years, great car, they have rfid or whatever in the key and will turn over with dead/broken key but not start.. 

Otherwise power feed / fuse for the injectors would be where I would start.  Most likely with a screwdriver on the injectors to listen to them click or volt meter to see them energized. 

 

I know little of the automatics but I would suspect that it wouldn't turn over at all if the inhibitor switch wasn't met. 

 

/ put some petrol in it. 

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As mentioned, check if the injectors are getting power/firing. If not, could be a relay/fuse/distributor/ground. Check everything is plugged in and all the grounds are connected.

Immobilisers seem to be rare, and depending on various factors. Being a jap import i suspect it wont have it.

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