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manual swapped 1g wont idle


BlownCorona

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Hi all

calling on people with toyota 1G experience. 

ive recently swapped my supercharged crown to manual. and it starts and drives just fine, however when coming back down from a rev up, the engine falls too far, often tries to catch it but ultimately stalls out. 

just after confirmation that nothing manual swap related has caused this? other than it didn't do it with the auto.

assuming its not the lack of auto, where should i begin looking? so far ive not done much other than check the ISCV has power, which it does, but im not sure how to check its getting the right sort of control from the ecu. the filter side hose on the valve does suck at varying rates so i think its okay. 

ive also unplugged the afm while it was running and had the car stall out immediately so im pretty sure thats alright too. 

 

 

could be throttle body or afm that needs a clean?

 

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nope. but there is not any (wiring) differences to note between the ecu for manual and auto. it did not require any tricking to run and the only wiring change needed was to bypass the neutral start switch which is simply an inline switch on the starter circuit. 

now that said, if you told me there were some tune differences to handle the differenced between auto and manual such as having a flywheel, and a much faster response to throttle inputs ect ect, then i would believe you.

it may be extremely difficult to find a manual supercharged ECU so hopefully its not that

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Quick Googs seems to indicate that it's fairly common to just run the AT ECU but the tune or compensation will definitely be different. 

I've experienced the same problem with the R30 when I converted it.  Luckily I had a swag of ECUs and one of them rang it good as gold, your Crown is probably a bit newer and fancier than the 30 but likely still suffers the same problem. 

I would guess that the tune is expecting the decel to take a lot longer due to the fluid in the torque converter but when it's just a flywheel it will dip far faster.   That's just speculation on my part though. 

Even if you can't find a manual ECU, if you can get another auto ECU it would help troubleshoot?

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mind you, other than the obvious effects of adjusted timing, it is still an auto spec engine. 

the other problem is, that it often wont actually hold an idle even when trying to softly feather the throttle into an idle. this could be an idle speed adjustment issue, but the rpms its doing at this point i feel should be able to sustain an idle just fine - near 850-1000

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After actualy finding the idle screw (on the back and underneath the TB, and a H2 Allen bolt????? 

Turns out it never even was touching the throttle. So I adjusted this up. I guess the cable was doing the throttle stopping and I upset it when I removed the kick down cable.

Found my timing light is broken, but as it still had a bit of a stumble, advanced it a couple taps and it's pretty acceptable now. Will check what it really it soon. 

So I guess that's all it really needed. 

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Fuel doesn't last long these days, so I wouldn't rule it out. Definitely chuck some fresh 98 in there.

It only takes a year of sitting in a fuel can before it changes colour and then even my old Victa has trouble starting on it.

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