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VK304’s sr20det 88 vanette


Vk304

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So I made some fittings at work with limited lathe skills, but I think this heater one came out good, its modified so the heater line isn't shooting straight back under the plenum and doing a big loop to connect back under the front of the van...

So now it goes through the gap you see and then straight to the front, I have to make some more fittings for other parts, will do next weekend , also got some ebay special stainless hose clamps for $30 or something for the set, instead of $8.20 for 2 at supercheapp, what a rip off!! 

 

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  • 2 weeks later...
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Well, 2nd sons arrived now, waiting on some funds to come through to buy argon for my tig, hopefully soon, in the mean time here's a picture of a gas cap with Jdm stickers on the old van lol

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Woops 20210826_132517.thumb.jpg.fcaed6574abb64ca4bdde56584835a0a.jpglittle metal come off the wheels but not too much to worry about.20210826_132539.thumb.jpg.244dab012fb413c27d15c96537dd427a.jpgsprings had gap here 20210826_132557.thumb.jpg.d875674f314b70b4465ca0782a46032d.jpgfigured it would be benificial to close this gap20210826_132614.thumb.jpg.c133f18e8214042fba2beee552549f30.jpg20210826_132631.thumb.jpg.072a5cae77b922ab74def926d6929010.jpgi made sure not to heat the actual spring, but let me know if im wrong here.. i know nothing about leaf springs... also the back has similar gap, should i close it too or not?

https://oldschool.co.nz/index.php?/topic/78072-vk304s-1988-nissan-vanette-w-added-sr20det/&do=getNewComment

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I have 2 joints i could use for caltrac, maybe some more in town, obviously no company makes them for a 1988 nissan vanette, so id make a setup20210826_171214.thumb.jpg.ade9dc66e619d19e4aaee2586db944f0.jpgthis guys confirming my pcd to make sure no more wheels wanna fall of lol20210826_171143.thumb.jpg.190d061f442fea25f79a5e9ee29cc82b.jpg20210826_171423.thumb.jpg.b4468f989910cd90505188fa9a62bc8a.jpg20210826_171319.thumb.jpg.2bdcd10e0964abe5751877314ae26597.jpgnot too flash in the bushing department either, might have to turn some nolathane ones at some point ??

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After a LOT of measuring of the car at rest, a copy of caltrac bracket measurements that someone put online, and limiting factors such as the lowest point on the drums which i was going for, though it could probably be lowered to the edge of the rim ,so will probably lower middle bracket to that.. but this is v1, should help hold the diff and pinion angle in place and allow movement without any kind of binding problems??20210827_165754.thumb.jpg.67664d1d4787064e64ec74b004d25443.jpgi came up with something that might work and all angles and lengths can be pulled from20210827_121749.thumb.jpg.0146281dff19a0f3096db201e63cb551.jpg20210827_165242.thumb.jpg.95be30a0cc474e79bf556fcb68901d3e.jpg20210827_165303.thumb.jpg.40ca76172d623cdac7a917bb95134843.jpg

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V2 with rim edge and lowering block, will probably get plates cut on waterjet, once ive got all the bolts and rod ends, also shrunk pivot plate a little, and has about 25mm clearance to spring, i think this will work, aloong with a solid alli bushing in the front as specified by caltrac 

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  • 2 weeks later...

Did a quick test to see if the bad clearcoat would come off, started to sand one then remembered i had paint stripper , this stuff works great, kept it off the powedcoat black, bit of a polish, i think ill refininsh the curbed lips and they will look nice 

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Cheers to @flyingbrick for giving me some arms he doesnt need, now i need to figure out if my track bars need heim joints or just a solid bushing type ...? Would they work fine or should i buy some more heim joints as i only have 2, dont mind the verniers and lighter, took pictures of measurements and thats all i got to put up atm ..

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