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Keltik's cast iron squirty thing


keltik

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23 hours ago, Muncie said:

I do romp on it quite often too.

You can't beat a jet unit for soaking up horsepower.

Could've been running straight magic 50w snake oil with extra children's tears and the old engine was still going to die.

I'll be running Total 10w40 semi synthetic again because it's the cheapest oil on tap at work.  Might add an oil temp gauge too for some extra eye candy on the dashboard.

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Fixed the misfire in the first 2 minutes with no tools or spares required - one injector plug wasn't clicked in properly.

Had a good test run and got through half a tank of fuel.  It's got a lot more power than before and is a fair bit smoother!

One problem is that it seems to be pulling timing and losing power the longer you hold it at full throttle.  Coming back to quarter throttle for a few seconds feeds the timing back in then you can get on it again.  I think I can hear the knock, oil temps are cold and water temp never gets warm so it must either be a hot spot in one of the cylinders or a fuelling issue.

I think I can hear the rattle coming from both banks so the current plan is to change the fuel filter and go out for another run with a pressure gauge on it and the scan tool looking at live timing data.

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  • 1 month later...

Well bugger.  Have been taking on more water than I'd like lately.  Today's trip ripped off some more bathroom sealant and bog to reveal....

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Gonna need to remove the fuel tank to fix it properly.  Could this be the time to strip the whole hull and patch everything up nicely?  Or do I bodge it up for a few more trips?  

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  • 2 months later...

Well it's been 2 months of ignoring this thing in the shed and what do you know....it still isn't fixed.

3 trips as passenger in other people's boats has motivated me a little tho.

So it's time to flip the hull.  I pushed it off the trailer and naively thought I could just roll it over using muscle power with the misses holding my hernia in.  Turns out steel is heavy.  That's no way my shed could support a chainfall so I got out the trolley jack and a series of wooden props.

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  • 4 weeks later...

Next weekend once the paint has hardened, I'll flip the hull over, make some small modifications and paint the inside.

Hoping to put a proper firewall in and add a frame around the engine cover opening so it can bear weight, be walked on and get sealed better to keep the waves out.

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  • 3 weeks later...

Put the hull right side up, got it back on the trailer, painted the inside and put the engine back in.

First job was to move the fuel pump.  It was previously a few inches above the highest part of the fuel tank so I can't imagine it self primed very well.  So I mounted it down near the bottom of the tank, moved the filter and tidied up the fuel lines a lot.

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Installed a new bilge pump in the port side, put new wiring and hose to the existing pump on the other side and shortened the discharge hoses a lot.

Started figuring out the slightly bananas wiring for the engine.  It's become a much bigger job than I was expecting.  I'd strip some wiring back then find a bunch of bullet crimps with a wire falling out.

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  • 3 weeks later...
  • 3 weeks later...

Got the floor sorted and the seat mounts are nearly done.  To make the new ECU enclosure fit nicely, I decided to move the firewall forward by a couple of inches.  This also gives me room to get a drive belt on the engine in place.  

To accommodate the larger engine bay, I was trying to think of a good way to make the engine cover 2 inches longer.  I tried showing it photos of the queen but when that didn't work, the only solution was to make a new cover.  I measured the width at 1200mm which was super convenient being the width of a standard sheet of ply. So I popped down to Bunnings and got them to cut a sheet in half so it would fit in the car easier.

Later at home, I popped the new sheet of ply into place and discovered the engine cover isn't square and is only 1200 at one end.  The other being closer to 1240. So now I had 2 completely useless 1200 square sheets of ply.  Back to Bunnings for another and this time cut it a bit bigger.

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Got the local exhaust shop to bend some pipe for me so I could replace the crusty exhaust.  Couldn't find a ball & socket joint to match the manifolds so decided to just weld the new pipes directly to the manifolds.  One less flange to leak is a good thing.

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Pulled the manifolds off to weld everything up after tacking it in place and discovered one spark plug was mega loose.  I unscrewed it and saw this....

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Now those plugs were new.... maybe 10 hours of running.  I'm not 100% sure if I blew it to bits by running mega lean with those crappy injectors or if there's other things going on here. 

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Had a look at the piston which seemed to be ok.

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Did a compression test to make sure there were no bits missing and all the other cylinders were around 190-200psi.  This one was down to 100.

Put the leak-down tester onto it and sure enough, the valves weren't sealing very well at all.  

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So I think I've either burned up a valve seat or since the back side of the exhaust valve is pretty crusty, perhaps this one has been sat open the last few months and got some crap on it.

After careful consideration, the plan is to reassemble everything and carry out another compression check once it's been run for a while.  Then I can decide if it's worth fitting my spare head.

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Put some new exhaust studs in, a new set of plugs, gave the manifolds a lick of paint and reassembled everything.

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Got the front firewall brace tig welded up so now I can finish the engine cover.

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My new cooling loop involves running a line on a tap to bleed hot water off from the heater pipes.  The rest of the hot water recirculates into the water pump as normal where it mixes with the cold water introduced from the jet pump via the lower radiator hose.

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I also ran a hose from the thermostat housing down to the lower radiator hose hoping this would temper the cold water coming in.

This doesn't seem to be working great as the hose doesn't warm up.  The hot side works fine and running full flow through the engine would have me in a similar situation to where it was before.

Perhaps it's time to buy a mixer and do it properly.

On the bright side, my wiring must have been right.  Engine runs nicely but won't idle with the flywheel off once it warms up.

 

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