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Keltik's cast iron squirty thing


keltik

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5 hours ago, vk327 said:

if you  get hold of an ALDL cable I  can go thru  how to  setup tunerpro on a laptop to  view live data which will talk without the BCM heartbeat signal, prob easier than that old tech 1. Trevor at Holden diagnostics sells the envyous customs ALDL to  usb cables, looks like you  need the memcal setup properly to  delete the trans faults too, Trevor does memcals for my  Jetbost standalone wiring setups so  knows what  works.

Yeah deleting trans codes would be choice, should get rid of the evap/purge codes while I'm at it then I can throw that solenoid away.  I've got a spare EPROM to have a go at ruining.

Took the boat out yesterday and it ran the best it ever has.  I don't know if I'm just imagining it or if it really has picked up some power.  Managed to suck some air into the pump mid turn, a 3.8 with 3ft of straight exhaust hitting rev limiter unexpectedly made me shit myself.

I reckon with the motor running correctly and the pump freshened up, I'll be getting well above the hulls comfortable speed range.  It feels sketchy as frig above 50 as it is.

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1 hour ago, Muncie said:

@vk327 would it be possible to shove a vx-vy Ecu in so he can just flash stuff in direct without having to crack open the waterproof housing? 

 

would need to modify  a vx/vy loom to  standalone and run that the sistema and expanding foam is a bit crap  haha, the ones I sell are in a proper enclosure

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5 hours ago, vk327 said:

the sistema and expanding foam is a bit crap

How dare you sir!

Have already modified the enclosure to one that has half a chance of working.  If the ECU gets wet now, it's because the boat sank.  And tbh at that point, I don't care.

I'm liking the VS setup just fine so feel no need to change.  I'd never bother swapping to anything short of a Link and I wouldn't bother doing that in this hull.  

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  • 2 weeks later...

So now that j5 and vg both have working boats, it's my turn to break down.  On the way back to the ramp from the harbour trip yesterday, I started hearing a bit of a whine noise from mine.  I stopped off at the dam on the way home to have a quick run in fresh water and the whine turned into a full gilly drive blower out the hood spec whine with a side of fucked rear diff roar.

The front oil seal on the pump had popped out and thrown it's grease everywhere.

Since there's only one bearing - diagnosis was pretty easy. Took the drive shaft, yoke and front bearing carrier off.  The bearing is still tight on the impeller/main shaft so I've posted on the jbnz forum for advice on how to pull it.

After reading the manual, I'm pretty sure there's supposed to be 3 oil seals behind the bearing and the cavity these seals sit in gets periodically oiled.  Then there's a weep hole to alert you the seals are shit before the water takes out your front bearing.

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On my unit, the oiling hole for this cavity is pristine and untouched for several years and what I think is the weep hole is full of bathroom sealant.  I think I can put 2+2 together here.

The impellers look alright and tip clearance isn't great but also isn't terrible so i'm going to leave all of the back end alone.

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22 hours ago, Vintage Grumble said:

If the bearing is chooched, I know a guy that can get four point/QJ bearings for reasonable prices. 

Get us one of these please love - this ones fucked.

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Previous owner has indeed filled the seal lubrication hole with silicone.  Everything has also been reassembled less the electrical insulation stuff so the front bearing was pretty loose in the outer housing - had not been loctited into place as they recommend.

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Might need to get someone talented on a lathe to spin up a new spacer.  This ones got a pretty decent groove in it from the oil seal and the front edge is also chooched so i cant just turn it round.  I really hope its not part of the shaft!  I guess I'll find out soon enough once I get a suitable sized puller to go in there.

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  • 2 weeks later...

Found a puller and got that collar off the shaft.  After that, I ended up taking the back end apart so I could slide the shaft out the back.

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The impellers actually weren't as bad as I was expecting.  The tip clearance is more than I'd like and the leading edges are a bit battered but they'll get the job done.

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Secured myself a 'new' engine from a VY.  Ripped out the old one and spent Saturday swapping exhaust manifolds and intake from the old motor onto the new one.  

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One exhaust manifold was a bit banana and I knew it wouldn't seal but I bolted it on anyways.

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Ran the motor for a while on the hose with drive shaft disconnected and it sounded good, was a very different exhaust note to the old engine.

Went out for a little test at the lake this morning and it had a big exhaust leak and developed an intermittent misfire at part throttle.  Didn't want to row too far and had no tools with me so just chucked it back on the trailer.  Will sort out that exhaust leak, check all the leads and then try again.

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Popped the heads off the old engine and began the autopsy.  Wasn't sure what I was going to find but I knew cylinder 6 had low compression and the plug on cylinder 1 was wet with water.

So cylinder 6 looked alright but had a little bit of a mark on the head gasket so I think it was leaking a little out to the valley.

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Cylinder 1 had a very clean piston, wet plug and a head gasket that looked like this...

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Interesting since pulling the HT lead for cylinder 1 did give a slight exhaust note change and 6 did absolutely nothing.  This all explains the blow-by coming out of the valve cover and I guess would also explain a little oil usage.  Doesn't quite tell me why it seized tho.

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What oil do you have in it? I run penrite HPR10 In my commodore its full synthetic and it doesn't use a drop between oil changes (up to 20,000ks), these engines seem to like it and it comes out only slightly darker then it goes it.

I do romp on it quite often too.

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