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Keltik's cast iron squirty thing


keltik

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5 hours ago, nzstato said:

Everyones getting squirts!  Mean....

Thought about re-hulling it?  Those Wattscraft kits are pretty cheap.

I think I'm gonna put some more dents in this hull first....then throw the pump on a Thomas Hewitt hull and fit a 1UZ in front of it.  But that's a long way in the future by which time my plans will have changed completely.

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First job was to get the trailer road worthy.  Previous owner told me the lights all worked well and it just needed the plug repaired.  So I wired on a new plug and discovered every single LED light was poked.  Installed some new ones and ticked that off the list.  Second job was to do something about these tyres...

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Turns out there aren't a whole lot of tyre options for 225/55R12.5 so I popped off to pick a part to get some new 4x114 rims.  Went to fit the first one and the hub was flopping all over the place so I took it off and found this... 

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Time to make a new axle I guess.

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Previous owner also said it had a leak he couldn't find somewhere in the front....there

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And I also discovered one exhaust was no longer attached at the transom and had flex fatigued itself clean off

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Time to reinforce the transom with a couple of patches hot metal glue gunned over the top.  Will make up some new exhaust skin fittings that spread the load better than just welding straight to the hull.

I did manage to fit an air filter and clean all of the dog hair out of the MAF sensor.

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Also moved the battery from sitting in the bottom of the bilge to an actual battery box behind the passenger seat.  Moved the isolator switch from its bracket on the bottom of the bell housing (why the fuck was it put there?!) To the firewall between the seats so it's reachable by driver or passenger in an emergency.

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Took the water supply from the jet pump to the sand trap and actually put a bulkhead fitting on the transom to seal it properly.  The current method was just water hose through a hole covered in bathroom sealant.

Jobs to do in vague order of importance;

Reinforce transom around exhaust outlets

Make new exhaust skin fittings

Patch hole in the bow Vee

Install dry storage container for phones, wallets, keys etc

Fit emergency manual bilge pump

Get some HT leads the right length

Replace sparky plugs

Replace rocker cover and valley gaskets

Fit some positive buoyancy foam...this is probably pointless.  A steel hull with a cast iron 3.8 in it would need the Goodyear blimp to keep it from going the full titanic

Mount the seats better/securely

Make the hull look a little nicer

Upgrade steering to actual teleflex cable instead of old school wire rope

Fit m90

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So I removed the RH/starboard exhaust today and stripped back all the bog in that side of the stern.  Discovered the exhaust outlet on that side was cracked half way round and the seam between the stern sheet metal and the bottom of the hull had cracked in one place and been buried under bathroom sealant.

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So I cut out the existing exhaust outlet and what I'm guessing was a previous engine's exhaust outlet next to it.  Patches are made up, new exhaust fittings are made up....time to go and see the man with the lightning gun to put it all back together.

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I also found another poorly repaired outlet hiding underneath all of that filler.  I think it probably used to be the engine tell tale or maybe bilge pump outlet that someone has covered up.  There's a nice crack around it which has been leaking a little. 

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Feel a bit umm...concerned? Since skimming this thing flat out across the lake the other week blissfully unaware of the hidden horrors.

Then again it's a boat.  No WOF, no worries.  Good enough is.

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1 minute ago, keltik said:

Feel a bit umm...concerned? Since skimming this thing flat out across the lake the other week blissfully unaware of the hidden horrors.

Then again it's a boat.  No WOF, no worries.  Good enough is.

No worries mate, Shit floats

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Well....testing was a bit of a mixed bag.  The exhausts don't leak any more....but a new big leak showed up under the fuel tank....but it was easy to fix with a blob of sealant.  For about 20 mins, had some picturesque boating bliss.

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Then Mr Greer had some power issues and headed back to the shore.  So I came to a stop and attempted to restart the engine to check how much cranking it needed, and it wouldn't start. Good thing I invited along a safety boat.

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Got towed back to shore and spent the next hour trying to figure out the issue while VG futzed with his carburetor.

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I'm pretty sure it's the usual 3.8 issue of the crank angle sensor being shit.  So I'll go back out next weekend with a new one in there and a spare DFI module to swap in if the sensor doesn't change anything.

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How to replace the crank position sensor on your Commodore v6.  Step 1, remove the firewall/engine compartment front cover.

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Step 2, use the historical artifact Hart Holden genuine GM service tool to pull the harmonic balancer off.

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Step 3, remove the plastic cover around the sensor, unbolt it and install a brand new Chinese knockoff sensor for $24.

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Reassemble all components applying some black goop to the crank pulley bolt and tighten to max ugga-dugga with the compressor red lined up to 130psi.

Hopefully if the weather plays ball and I can get a safety boat to come along I'll give it a test tomorrow morning.  Lessons have been learned tho and I will return to the boat ramp once the engine is hot and attempt to restart it there.

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