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VGs Tiny Squirty Thing - The Chode


Vintage Grumble

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Today I had a nose at the least happy spare engine, mainly to see how hard changing the crank seals would be. The rear is 2 min job, and the front won't be that hard at all. 

Behind the front cover, CDI seems flash for a 50 year old motor, 

oapjjkD.jpg

And behind the mag is the seal, easy as, 

sIa8Ini.jpg

Then I had a nose at the exhaust, sort of a weird set up, big open water cooled box, 

ZQeMMdy.jpg

uVktsa9.jpg

Big ol ports, 

skQhZx0.jpg

So yeh, definitely not a twin pipe friendly sort of deal. 

Old plugs from current motor in boat confirm lean/hot, 

My50zXW.jpg

And my new high flow fuel delivery set up, 

OARohcF.jpg

ALSO, I think we might have been thinking about the tune pipe paulses incorrectly. The paulse makes it back to the port before it shuts, so that means the other port hasn't opened yet, thus the paulses shalt never meet. Also can confirm these motors have the pistons 180deg out. 

 

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On 31/10/2020 at 21:49, Vintage Grumble said:

Wouldnt 2 strokes plugs always be a bit on the greasy/carbony side? 

definitely not, when there is good fuel/oil/air ratios, the spark plugs look like normal. 5000km old spark plugs on my scooters are dry as and have a nice colour to them

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17 minutes ago, peteretep said:

definitely not, when there is good fuel/oil/air ratios, the spark plugs look like normal. 5000km old spark plugs on my scooters are dry as and have a nice colour to them

True, guess I've always gone a bit on the rich side, in the hope its less likely to seize. But by those charts up there, and looking at the plugs I pulled, it may not even be that lean. Mind you, gawd knows how long those plugs have been in there.

Also, I only just learned a plug chop, literally means chopping the plugs open. I had confused a read with a chop, thinking the chop referred to cutting/chopping the power when at WOT.  

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personally havent had much luck with chopping plugs, I think you need a really long straight to get some colour into the plug, but then its a total pain in the ass having to pull everything apart and destroy a plug. I have had a much better time just riding around and getting a feel of different throttle positions on the carb and referring them back to which jet/needle is affecting the power at that level. And a temperature gauge to make sure you aren't wayyyy out.

 

Hard to imagine you need much more than a bit of adjustment on your thing though, as nothing has been grossly modified. I would be looking at maintenence items like seals and rebuilding the carb first

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1 minute ago, tortron said:

china O2 sensor and go ham with a wideband

 

(probably not an issue with the sensor life as you wont be using it that much just to dial it in, 2 stroke snow mobile o2 sensors) last like 100 hours

Actually, my broinlaw has a innovate wideband, if I bung that in before the water enters the pipe we should be all good. Does the oil bugger up the sensors? 

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14 minutes ago, tortron said:

yeah a sensor used in a 2 stroke will generally have a shorter life.  it can be hard to get a good reading depending on reverb/pulse too

I just talked to the broinlaw, he's keen to slap the wideband on and see what happens.

3 minutes ago, nzstato said:

Would one of those plugs which change colour based on rich/lean be a better option?

I didn't even know they were a thing?

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