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Posted

Yeah been talking to someone who still runs the older cars.

They may very well be a bit flogged out compared to deals from the past. But thats fine because im still not 100% sure if they will fit okay yet. 

 

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Posted
3 hours ago, Hyperblade said:

 

Just to be aware the tyres were designed for a 9" rim, but most guys run them on 8" rims, this means they bulge out to 220mm but tread is still 200mm they have a diameter of 540mm.  

Yeah the guy said hes got some that are 180 wide tread and some 200 wide but they are both the same real world dimensions. Im gonna be in a bit of trouble if theyre much wider than a regular 205 wide tyre. But! Just thinking about it, ive still got basically zero camber in the front. And the rear has room. Adding a few degrees would be win win for making them fit as well as cornering goodness.

If they do work out well I will be stoked.

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Posted

The 200 in a slick generally translates to about 225 in a road tyre equivalent..

I priced and sized some Hoosier tarmac rally tyres a while ago, so yeah for sure you'd be best to get your hands on some to get a feel for how they might fit.

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Posted

Ahh right. Pooz. 

Probably wont work then.

Cheap enough to give it a try though.

Either way im keeping the drag tyres on one pair until at least the oldschool drags.

That and getting to the dyno are main priorities after WOF. 

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Posted

I just stopped by to ask, if you'll be on the dyno before drag day?

And also to say,

Damn those god damned torpedoes!

Dont you dare run a lower redline for a drag day. If you dont rev your engine to the moon, even for just that one day, I'll block you. Plus if you scatter the block, someone is sure to be filming. So we can all enjoy your offerings to the gods of speed. (Over and over)

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Posted

Yes hopefully back to dyno before drags.

Rev limiter needs to stay at 9000 for drags, otherwise rpm drops too much on shifts. At trackday try stick to 8500ish.  I will set the limiter lower when doing burnouts. As it was overshooting to 9200rpm a lot which cant be helpful.

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Posted

@RUNAMUCK its interesting looking at the drive power curves, where it crosses over tells you where is best to shift.
So in first gear, you lose so much wheel torque going to 2nd that it's worth revving the absolute snot out of it in 1st even though power is completely gone.
If it had a slightly taller first gear then it wouldnt "ideally" want to go to 10k

image.png.177c3e09de3e0d9e1b7f61d8e6dce08f.png


Then 2nd gear onwards, less need to rev it so high.

image.png.11811a4d1c6225460921314ac9ce4450.png





 

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