GARDRB Posted January 31, 2022 Share Posted January 31, 2022 So rev first to 10k and the rest to 9k then? I reckon getting the exhaust done so that all that combustion can actually get out of there is going to make revving to 9k more worthwhile. You need to set up 1nzGarage and get some sponsors on board 6 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
deankdx Posted February 1, 2022 Share Posted February 1, 2022 6 hours ago, Roman said: , I need to keep revving until the power drops to around 105-110hp is the torque graph something to consider also? or does it overlay similarly enough Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Roman Posted February 1, 2022 Author Share Posted February 1, 2022 It is a torque at the wheels graph, essentially 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
keltik Posted February 1, 2022 Share Posted February 1, 2022 7 hours ago, GARDRB said: You need to set up 1nzGarage and get some sponsors on board SmallCarStuff 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Popular Post GARDRB Posted February 1, 2022 Popular Post Share Posted February 1, 2022 1 hour ago, keltik said: SmallCarStuff 9 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Corbie Posted February 8, 2022 Share Posted February 8, 2022 https://www.driven.co.nz/news/watch-toyota-gr-yaris-hoons-down-the-quarter-mile-and-lands-in-the-10s/?utm_source=nzh&utm_medium=referral&utm_campaign=topbox 3 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
deankdx Posted February 8, 2022 Share Posted February 8, 2022 6 hours ago, Corbie said: https://www.driven.co.nz/news/watch-toyota-gr-yaris-hoons-down-the-quarter-mile-and-lands-in-the-10s/?utm_source=nzh&utm_medium=referral&utm_campaign=topbox I've been watching Motive Video tuning theirs since new. been interesting to see the development stages. Roman might need to give them some tuning advice 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Popular Post Roman Posted February 10, 2022 Author Popular Post Share Posted February 10, 2022 Lately the car has been a bit... flat. And it's lost its doort noises for some reason. Since I've fixed the wideband, none of the settings it "wants" have made any sense. It's running way richer than it should be... But everything seems fine? I was thinking my wideband is probably chooched. But it's been slow as well. I was suspecting that the cat converter might be blocked, seeing how I've been using an ignition cut for rpm limiter and launching. Thought I'd better check inside the intake just in case though... Ahhh wtf haha It looks as though the areas of my manifold which werent covered in carbon, have gotten a bit melty and jizzed up the ports. This doesnt seem to make sense because it's been going for months and months just fine... and I've had the manifold off and on several times in that period. But thinking back, this probably happened when the electric waterpump failed and the motor boiled all of its coolant out, and I drove it home as-is. haha. As this material can widthstand "about" 100 degrees, the motor probably quite easily got to 120 or 130. Looks like there's no damage. If there was though, would I regret having a printed manifold? Shit no! 3d printing has been a cornerstone of making this project possible at all. No regerts. Not quite sure what I'll do from here yet though. Maybe a 100% carbon version. Or maybe get some alloy flanges laser cut and get someone to weld the bits together with some pipes in between. 15 1 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tortron Posted February 10, 2022 Share Posted February 10, 2022 1 4 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ajg193 Posted February 10, 2022 Share Posted February 10, 2022 How does this filament hold up compared to carbon fibre filled nylon? A guy on youtube made some manifolds for his mini from that stuff and he claims it has held up well. He does use o-rings to seal around the ports though Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Popular Post Roman Posted February 10, 2022 Author Popular Post Share Posted February 10, 2022 Yeah the carbon nylon stuff has a higher melting temp. But its a bit harder to print and its a lot more expensive. My next scheme is to make a PLA mould and pour in a tool making epoxy. Maybe with some chopped carbon strands smooshed in. Then hopefully melt away the pla to leave the part. Ive found a tool making epoxy that is resistant until 170c, and looks to be decently strong. Needs to be cured for 2 hours at 80deg, then after that an hour at 120. So should melt off the majority of the pla in this process hopefully. Might take a few iterations to gst the idea to work (or it might not work at all) But will be fun. Im printing this at the moment. 10 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Willdat? Posted February 10, 2022 Share Posted February 10, 2022 Semi ling/ I've done lost PLA casting with plaster which we burnt off in a furnace, apart from ~10% shrinkage with the aluminium it worked well. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Roman Posted February 10, 2022 Author Share Posted February 10, 2022 Yeah doing an aluminium casting would be fun. Although, lost PLA for a plaster mould for the epoxy stuff could be a good scheme too. Might try that next if this doesnt work! 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stu Posted February 10, 2022 Share Posted February 10, 2022 Backup option I have the flatbed cnc for flanges, and a metal glue gun for an ali version as required. 2 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Popular Post Roman Posted February 11, 2022 Author Popular Post Share Posted February 11, 2022 Mould is ready to go. Will do another coat of PVA mould release stuff on it first, then blob it up once epoxy arrives. I'm 90% confident that it's not going to come out of the mould, and it's gonna go straight onto the wall of shame. Also it might not like being drilled and tapped, maybe it will just break? Which reminds me, I need to setup a wall of shame in the shed. For some reason its fun when I think something might not actually work. It's exciting to see if it will. 12 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NickJ Posted February 11, 2022 Share Posted February 11, 2022 Which epoxy have you found? I've used a few different types and they all have the same issue, you really need to have a rigid support structure during the post cure. The tg/hdt lags behind the cure temp so you should aim for post cure above service temp and expect the part to move. The cure steps given are usually a guide to ensure you keep thermal gradients in the part low to prevent warping (as the resin cross links more it shrinks, high thermal gradients make this non uniform causing it to pull which ever way) The better* way to post cure (and takes some time unless you push through tests) is to slowly ramp the part, for example push the oven in 10deg steps so it reaches the top temp in similar time, if the part has bulk increase the time steps. For a part that size i'd ramp over 5 hours to 180deg, I also use plenty of temp sensors to confirm gradients. *In production sense - There are activation energy levels that may require soaks but that is another level. You can't overdo it so for one off parts just take the ramp real slow and bob's ya fella. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Roman Posted February 11, 2022 Author Share Posted February 11, 2022 Thanks for your input! Do you think adding some filler, like carbon or fibreglass strands will give it some more dimensional stability during curing? Kinda like how it helps the nylon 3d printing? Going to try this stuff.https://www.smooth-on.com/products/epoxacast-670/ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shrike Posted February 11, 2022 Share Posted February 11, 2022 Would sealing it in a vacuum bag help? Also if it doesnt tap, im assuming youll just use insets? 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Roman Posted February 11, 2022 Author Share Posted February 11, 2022 Yeah or just cast threaded rod directly into it. But first test is seeing if I can get a piece out of a mould at all. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NickJ Posted February 11, 2022 Share Posted February 11, 2022 Long strand fillers can make it worse unless you can insert them 100% randomly (or 100% uniform for that matter) They change the structural response to the shrinkage making it even more unpredictable, two similar flanges could end up tweaking in different ways. The big but is they improve the end toughness by such a magnitude you're be silly not to, allow some meat to sand back flat/ holes drilled out larger etc. Just like you're doing, smash it all together and see what happens is about the end of it! Thats not one of the resins i've used but if its easily available its better than nothing. Lastly (hopefully sucking eggs/benefit of others/fun police) I assume you have an oven in the workshop? the fumes from post cure are pretty nasty, really not a kitchen thing (unless you're single, career autopainter and pack a day smoker) 4 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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