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Romans 2005 Toyota Echo


Roman

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Car has been running great. 
Just frustrating that all of the events to attend are getting shut down. 
Since it's been running good with no problems, obviously the thing to do is pull it apart again.
As I want to investigate how much VVTI movement I can get with the current situation. 
From memory the valves clanged into the pistons at around 18 degrees advance. 
Counting the teeth on the cam gear, it's got 36 teeth so 10 degree divisions. 
So I cant quite use 2 teeth worth of advance, which is a pity.
So I'd need to retard the cam gear by 3 teeth, and use only 10 deg advance over the current position. But then I gain 3 teeth worth of cam retard too, over just a fixed position.
So at home position the cam would be open for quite a long period during compression stroke - Doing what the standard prius motor does. Hah. 
So I might get some better fuel economy out of it. Since the valve angle is quite steep I dont think there's any possibility of clanging intake valves into exhaust valves, but I will check on my spare head.
I wonder if this will act weird with ITB setup. As there's less room to push the gas back into the intake.

It's a wanker to do all this because, of stupid chain drive and sealed front cover. As well as that I've nanged on the front pulley with about 50 litres of loctite. Hopefully the starter motor can get it off. 

At TDC-ish It can advance about this far before it hits

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So possible to make a lock out that mechanism? on k24 shit people transfer the larger k20 50degree VTC gear onto K24 which is meant to hit pistons (don't think it does) you can buy a lockout device which just is chucked in the chamber and stops it moving as far. Its literally a machined and hardened pin that floats around in the chamber and stops it opening as far lol.

https://tractuff.com/products/tractuff-vtc-limiter

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Yeah I've thought about that - but I'd need 4 of them machined exactly the same, and I'm not sure how I'd secure them in position. 

If I have to take the cam gear off and cam out, then it's easier to just retime the chain. 

So will give that a go first 

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2 hours ago, Roman said:

Yeah I've thought about that - but I'd need 4 of them machined exactly the same, and I'm not sure how I'd secure them in position. 
 

I'm pretty sure those lockout pins only go in 1 spot. Not all 4 cavities.

I was investigating a Subaru one once and they have a pin that limits the advance until it has enough oil pressure to retract the pin. That was only on one of the cavities 

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Basically it wants to be pinged to max advance right until nearly redline, which at first I thought was cool but then makes me realize it just wants even more advance but cant have it. So still no way around needing those other pistons. But still, really happy with this for a "Free" stopgap fix! 

This is a before and after VE map (fuel table adjustment) from adjusting to best cam position. 
image.png.d5e18a0dcdd164a05e3bf690c94054e8.png

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Shit yeah good outcome! I knew some form of jamming mechanism was in your future haha.

37 degrees is great. I have only played with the K24 stuff and you don't get shit out of using more than 40 degrees on them and its all mid range (generally right before going onto vtec big cam), you end up pulling it way back up top.

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