thegreatestben Posted August 5, 2021 Share Posted August 5, 2021 16 minutes ago, kpr said: Re c series gearboxes. Have pulled many apart. The janky way works fine. Just need to split the case and have about 10 to 15mm gap to work with to get 2x m8 bolts out that hold the reverse selector thing? Then will come apart. Otherwise doing it the proper way, getting 5th gear off can be a pain. But the later boxes seem to have jacking bolt holes. which makes things not too bad. Even I've done the above and had zero experience pulling apart a gearbag. All goods. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Willdat? Posted August 5, 2021 Share Posted August 5, 2021 7 hours ago, ~Slideways~ said: Ah so that's quite a large one! I was looking at the Ender 3 Pro which says it can do Carbon Fibre (not sure if that's the right thing). But the build size is much smaller at 220x220x250. From what I can find the nozzle can do 240degC and the base 110degC so maybe just shy of what is needed. I suppose a manifold could be designed in pieces that slot together? The Ender 3 Pro is great for the $, but I reckon the max bed temp is closer to 80-85 degrees by the time the build plate is attached. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Popular Post Roman Posted August 15, 2021 Author Popular Post Share Posted August 15, 2021 So I put on my brave pants and took my brave pills and pulled my spare gearbox apart... Too easy! I think I've just managed to get some PTSD from the complexity of J160 boxes. But this was piece of cake. I toyodiy'd the gearbox parts to look for any differences, found that the bearings and shells have different part numbers. Some more digging and I found that they have a different size or taper on the bearing and shell, so you need to match them. Otherwise you get this situation where the shell doesnt sit flush to the bearing: So this week I'll pop over to my Dads place and use the gear puller and press to swap the bearings over, then its fairly easy looking to get it all back together. It turns out that some variants of the C series box have a 6 bolt crownwheel, luckily both the AE111 torsen center and the RS box have the 8 bolt pattern. Cant wait to get this new box in, will be awesome. I've also been thinking of some methods for half arsed launch control when I dont have a non driven wheel speed signal. I have setup a timer that resets to zero when TPS is over 80% and vehicle speed is zero. So when the vehicle speed goes over zero, the timer advances and the engine is allowed to accellerate at a specified rate over that time. Then once the timer reaches 4 seconds you get the normal rev limit from then onwards. The other axis will be an input that will come over canbus from my dash, so you can adjust how aggressive it is. I'm not quite sure what sort of time period will be needed yet for this to work nicely. Oh yeah and bodged together a little canbus dash to show some things that you dont get on the main screen. Graduated shift light is pretty sweet. But the main thing is to give some peace of mind about the electric waterpump, with some big flashing warnings if it fails. 27 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Popular Post Roman Posted August 15, 2021 Author Popular Post Share Posted August 15, 2021 Oh yeah and further to previous wheels chat. Rays wheels come in at 6.0kg per corner. But good enough, could realistically only get 1kg per corner less by spending $$$$$ Still ~12kg total less than ROH wheels. But getting a bit of a refurb as they were a bit fucked 19 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Valiant Posted August 15, 2021 Share Posted August 15, 2021 Awesome. LSD Upgrades are the BEST! 1 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Roman Posted August 15, 2021 Author Share Posted August 15, 2021 Yeah it will be a world of difference! Cant wait. It is incredibly frustrating how easy it spins up the front left when trying to get off the line. 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
yoeddynz Posted August 15, 2021 Share Posted August 15, 2021 I noticed a huge difference in the K11 we have that has the LSD. That hillclimb up the road from us- you can really hoof it out of the tight corners with no scrabbling for grip especially when its a bit damp. Great fun! Super happy we got that car because that gearbox is pretty hard to find in a K11. We had one of those new rally spec echos/Yaris? go racing past us the other way when out on the pushbikes yesterday- I'm guessing it was a turbo 3 pot? Fuck it sounded cool and looked sweet with its pumped out arches! 6 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Truenotch Posted August 15, 2021 Share Posted August 15, 2021 3 hours ago, yoeddynz said: I'm guessing it was a turbo 3 pot? Sure is! Those GR Yaris's are super cool. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thegreatestben Posted August 15, 2021 Share Posted August 15, 2021 Yesss with project binky coming to a close, I've been thinking how neat it would be with yaris GR running gear instead of the celica stuff. 7 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Roman Posted August 16, 2021 Author Share Posted August 16, 2021 3SGTE in a mini is like a lead tipped arrow with the arrow cut off 1 1 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Roman Posted August 17, 2021 Author Share Posted August 17, 2021 Bearing situation. Getting the bearings off was a one way trip so definitely no chance of reusing them. It turns out that there's a slight change in gearbox bearings half way through the run of NCP13s (possibly facelift vs not) So on one side of the diff, the bearing is the same between AE111, NCP13, and NCP91. However on the other side, AE111 and early Vitz NCP13 share a bearing part number. Then late NCP13 and NCP91 have a different bearing part number. The early one is 19.4mm wide and the late one is 18.4mm wide. There's a different taper angle on the bearing/shell. Presumably that side of the transmission case is cut shallower to allow for the difference, they definitely arent just interchangable. So I played bearing roulette and ordered two yesterday just before lockdown news... and got the wrong one for that side. But at least I now know definitively what I need. 6 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Popular Post Roman Posted August 18, 2021 Author Popular Post Share Posted August 18, 2021 So looking at the parts site some more, trying to think of a way I can keep making progress. It turns out there are two bearing part numbers and then two shim part numbers 18.5mm bearing and a 2.1mm shim or 19.4mm bearing and a 1.2mm shim Keen observer may note that both of these added together is 20.6mm So, genius idea! I will pull apart my original echo gearbox which is from 2005 so definitely the later model one, and steal the shim to suit my new bearing. Pull it apart - has the right shim in it. Awesome! So next steps: Step 1: press the bearing shells into the casings - done Step 2: press the bearings onto the diff - done Step 3: Fit the speedo drive gear back on before doing Step 2 Oh for fucks sake 11 2 7 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
keltik Posted August 18, 2021 Share Posted August 18, 2021 Time to get the speed signal from wheel speed sensors 4 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HighLUX Posted August 18, 2021 Share Posted August 18, 2021 Cut the speedo pickup in half then epoxy it on 2 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Roman Posted August 18, 2021 Author Share Posted August 18, 2021 I'd love to have speed signal from wheel sensors, because then I can use proper traction control features in the ECU. Buuuutttt The problem is that the high tooth count on the ABS rings means the ECU tops out its ability to read frequencys quite low (something like 80kph or 100kph max) If I cut down the tooth count to suit the ECU then ABS doesnt work properly, and honestly it's bloody good having ABS at the track after being used to not having it (and flat spotting tyres) I have looked at how I could bodge the speedo ring back on, but realized if it flies apart at some point it's about 50x more effort to fix the problem at that point, than it is to just have some extra patience and fix it now. So I have ordered a replacement bearing. One good thing is that it's considerably easier to press the old one back off when there's no speedo gear on it. Also I cant drive this car at all until I've got a working alternator, and I wont be able to pick up the new bracket until some time after level 4 simmers down. Not that it matters because I cant really drive it anywhere anyway while we are at level 4. Not the end of the world. Taupo Trackday is October 1st though which I've realized is sneaking up! Definitely keen to have the LSD installed well before that, and try get everything tip top reliability wise. 9 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
h4nd Posted August 18, 2021 Share Posted August 18, 2021 4018 Presettable Divide by N Counter CMOS IC? https://www.jaycar.co.nz/4018-presettable-divide-by-n-counter-cmos-ic/p/ZC4018 1 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Roman Posted August 18, 2021 Author Share Posted August 18, 2021 8 hours ago, h4nd said: 4018 Presettable Divide by N Counter CMOS IC? https://www.jaycar.co.nz/4018-presettable-divide-by-n-counter-cmos-ic/p/ZC4018 I have been doing some more homework on this. The sensors are two wire, so I've been assuming they are a variable reluctor. But turns out that its not uncommon for ABS sensors to be a 2 wire hall effect sensors that output square wave. If this is the case then I assume my life becomes a whole lot easier. Will do some testing with the scope. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stu Posted August 18, 2021 Share Posted August 18, 2021 Ive used divider circuits before into a link when using ABS sensors and it worked fine 4 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Popular Post Roman Posted August 19, 2021 Author Popular Post Share Posted August 19, 2021 So the ABS pump/ECU plug has got a suspiciously large amount of pins on it, so I've been thinking maybe it has some speed outputs that are unused. So I traced the pins... Everything's accounted for, apart from 3 mystery pins which are blanked off with rubber grommets. All of the "blank" pins are blocked off on the plug so you cant add terminals, but, there are actually pins on the pump itself under the plug. So first thing is to investigate those three that just have rubber grommets blocking them, but are pinnable with some extra bits of wire. However I believe this pump is actually a Bosch unit. So it's got terminals that are unique to the pump that I dont have any spare of. I might get another pump itself so I can investigate more easily what all the other unused pins do. The "data connector" pins run to the OBD2 plug. It's tempting to try decode this, as it would most certainly contain wheel speed information for sake of troubleshooting. But by the time it's gone from sensor, to ABS pump, to an arduino, to canbus, to ECU. It's probably too slow to be useful compared to using for inputs on the ECU directly. If there's nothing suitable that comes out of the pump itself, plan B is to tap into wheel speed signals then use a frequency divider as per what Stu says. Which is fine but it would be nice and tidy if there was a solution straight from the pump itself. For the more immediate situation however, I got the speedo drive thingy on. new bearing on. I have done a test fit reassemble. Definitely a bit tricky getting that reverse lever thing back in the right place, but it's doable. Fingers crossed I have this all back properly together tomorrow. The only thing I'm now missing is axle seals, but at least I can get the box all assembled and otherwise ready to go. 24 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
flyingbrick Posted August 20, 2021 Share Posted August 20, 2021 On 15/08/2021 at 19:42, Roman said: So I put on my brave pants and took my brave pills and pulled my spare gearbox apart... Too easy! I think I've just managed to get some PTSD from the complexity of J160 boxes. But this was piece of cake. I toyodiy'd the gearbox parts to look for any differences, found that the bearings and shells have different part numbers. Some more digging and I found that they have a different size or taper on the bearing and shell, so you need to match them. Otherwise you get this situation where the shell doesnt sit flush to the bearing: So this week I'll pop over to my Dads place and use the gear puller and press to swap the bearings over, then its fairly easy looking to get it all back together. It turns out that some variants of the C series box have a 6 bolt crownwheel, luckily both the AE111 torsen center and the RS box have the 8 bolt pattern. Cant wait to get this new box in, will be awesome. I've also been thinking of some methods for half arsed launch control when I dont have a non driven wheel speed signal. I have setup a timer that resets to zero when TPS is over 80% and vehicle speed is zero. So when the vehicle speed goes over zero, the timer advances and the engine is allowed to accellerate at a specified rate over that time. Then once the timer reaches 4 seconds you get the normal rev limit from then onwards. The other axis will be an input that will come over canbus from my dash, so you can adjust how aggressive it is. I'm not quite sure what sort of time period will be needed yet for this to work nicely. Oh yeah and bodged together a little canbus dash to show some things that you dont get on the main screen. Graduated shift light is pretty sweet. But the main thing is to give some peace of mind about the electric waterpump, with some big flashing warnings if it fails. Lol.. Just bodged it together... Damn, that sort of DIY is so far out of reach of the average person it's crazy lol. Love it. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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