Yowzer Posted April 19, 2021 Share Posted April 19, 2021 Yes I believe I just said that. Also yes you can remove the valves from a lot of modern engines by hand. Far easier than mucking about with a spring compressor that usually never fits anywhere anyway 1 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Yowzer Posted April 19, 2021 Share Posted April 19, 2021 On 15/04/2021 at 15:24, Roman said: Ahh good point! I wonder if regular 1nz ones will fit. Oh back on this, EGR generally isn't harmful on petrol engines and you can play around with it to improve economy if you need an excuse to make more graphs. Minimising blowby and feeding it into a catch can will keep your pistons clean far better than ditching the EGR. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Valiant Posted April 19, 2021 Share Posted April 19, 2021 @Roman is the head still off the engine? If it is it is more cost effective to machine the clearance off the top of the valve and use the buckets you have already. When you need more clearance that is. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Roman Posted April 19, 2021 Author Share Posted April 19, 2021 Yeah the head is still off. But im not pulling valves back out, too much of a mish with the stiff valve springs. Will just get them measured up first, might be a non issue. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Spencer Posted April 19, 2021 Share Posted April 19, 2021 Yeah a few cam swaps I have messed with on bucket setups you bang them in and magically it all works out fine measurement wise. I don't know much about cams but I would guess that good aftermarket ones have base circles similar enough to stock that it stays in spec 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Roman Posted April 19, 2021 Author Share Posted April 19, 2021 Yeah you'd hope so right! Cam regrinds where it's a reduced base circle are kind of in that purgatory of cost effectiveness, if you end up needing to replace every single bucket or shim. You'd hope you dont need to do the same for a brand new cam. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mjrstar Posted April 19, 2021 Share Posted April 19, 2021 Are these single piece buckets? I have a container of over shims /inserts to suit 4age/1ggte (somewhere) When I measured mine up I found that using the smallest shim to feeler gauge the clearance was easiest, it sucks when you install all buckets and there is zero clearance on some because you don't know how much smaller to go.. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Roman Posted April 19, 2021 Author Share Posted April 19, 2021 Yeah all shimless. But there was a bit of variance on the bucket numbers, hopefully i wont be touching on the narrowest gap. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
keltik Posted April 20, 2021 Share Posted April 20, 2021 On 19/04/2021 at 20:56, Roman said: the magic fingering machine 1 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Popular Post Roman Posted April 22, 2021 Author Popular Post Share Posted April 22, 2021 Progress. The head is back on properly, cam clearances all within spec after 2-3 goes of juggling the existing shims around. I pick-a-parted a front pulley, so now I can start on an alternator bracket. Funnily enough the light weight alternator kit for my 3S motor, that saves 4KG. Uses a 1NZ alternator. So there's some irony in stealing the brackets from that, in order to mount a 1NZ alternator to a 1NZ. I'll just need an intermediate plate to bolt to the side of the block and stick these on, hopefully. Not the most light weight solution but I'm more about just getting this going for now. Looks like underneath the waterpump will be the place for it, and no AC anymore. Keep the top side looking tidy - Afterall, this is a show car. One of the now superfluous water outlets was a hose barb that sat with a tapered thread into the back side of the block. Which I replaced with a drain block off bolt I pinched from a dead 3S motor. Easy fix. Also note how the dipstick on this motor nicely bends out of the way, rather than being between number 1 and 2 throttles. Excellent. The power steering pump is apparently difficult to mount on the rear side of the engine, but I'm thinking something looks doable. The amount of gasket goo required to put on both layers of the sump as well as the timing cover is insane. If this doesnt leak, I'll be suprised! 16 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fuel Posted April 22, 2021 Share Posted April 22, 2021 Does any model of that gen Echo/Vitz/Platz/Yaris have electric PS? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Roman Posted April 22, 2021 Author Share Posted April 22, 2021 The next shape along (ncp91) has a non ps rack because electrically assisted steering column. Theres no electric PS from this generation (apart from Prius). But I think it runs the pump from the higher voltage battery not 12v. Hmmm but maybe its worth checking. There are poverty spec echos with non PS racks but ive never come across one before. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ajg193 Posted April 22, 2021 Share Posted April 22, 2021 People have put the electric assist motors into KP starlets. Legend has it that the same steering column joints/splines have been in use for over 40 years 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Roman Posted April 27, 2021 Author Share Posted April 27, 2021 I've pulled the throttles off the car to mock up on here. Then reverted Echo to standard manifold which is a bit more WOF friendly, even if it's technically legal with throttles on currently. Also thanks to the excellent dude Matt Gill I've got some 2ZZ injectors on the way. So that's most of the puzzle pieces solved! The main task left to figure out has been the alternator bracket, which has resulted in some head scratching and a few different attempts at finding somewhere for it to sit. Settled on this, which is very low down bolting onto bottom of the sump. Ideally I didnt want to have the mounting points that far down the engine, but I think it'll be alright. Then the worlds shittiest assortment of accessories as a tensioner. I might improve on this, but if it works probably not haha. I dont have the skills or materials or tools to make a proper version of the bracket from aluminium, so I was hoping in someone in Waikato might be able to help? Here's some more specific details if anyone can. 8 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ajg193 Posted April 27, 2021 Share Posted April 27, 2021 Make sure to get the rust off those pulleys or you'll be replacing belts left right and centre 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Yowzer Posted April 27, 2021 Share Posted April 27, 2021 And give them a good coating of oil to prevent any future rust 5 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tortron Posted April 27, 2021 Share Posted April 27, 2021 Silicon spray keeps them and the belts looking like new 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Roman Posted April 27, 2021 Author Share Posted April 27, 2021 Good tips, I wonder if silicon spray in the oil will help reduce frictional losses at high rpm 2 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Valiant Posted April 29, 2021 Share Posted April 29, 2021 I'd fill the sump with CRC 556 if I was you. 4 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Popular Post Roman Posted May 2, 2021 Author Popular Post Share Posted May 2, 2021 Big mission today to get old motor out and get the new motor/box/clutch/etc assembled. I was thinking it would likely be best/easiest to drop the motor out the bottom, like I've done with MR2 in the past. However once the axles are out it's pretty easy to turn the motor 90 deg and pull it straight out the front. Ended up spending about an hour and a half playing Dentist, when the new motor and new box both had the same alignment dowel stuck in them. Took a lot of heat and CRC and filing some flats into it before the bloody thing eventually came loose. Once that was sorted I tried aligning the box onto the motor but it was just too dark and too tired. So will get that sorted tomorrow after work. I CBF with the power steering so I've been keeping an eye out for a manual rack Echo at Pick a Part etc, but havent seen one yet. Then one just popped up on Trademe so bought it. hopefully it isnt missing a UJ or something specific to the manual rack (probably is, and I'm stupid for buying this) " 20 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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