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Romans 2005 Toyota Echo


Roman

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Bore size at the head is a 45x53mm slightly oval shape. 

Yeah there are zillions of options, these ones which suit a 1500 motor are from a 1000cc bike motor (as generally bore is wider and stroke shorter on a sports bike) 

So you'll probably want to find something with about 600cc engine size. 

There's a list of some here: 

https://www.msextra.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=6602

There's a list here, but best is to just hop on ebay and have a look. 

It's just dificult to find the right category to search, because bike people seem to call ITB manifolds all sorts of different things! 

But once you get onto the right category it usually shows up similar from other bikes.

I wonder if these would be alright @yoeddynz

https://www.ebay.com/itm/283051120678?_trkparms=amclksrc%3DITM%26aid%3D1110018%26algo%3DHOMESPLICE.COMPLISTINGS%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D20210609144404%26meid%3D5f09052c980c409883c1d8e5739930f8%26pid%3D101196%26rk%3D9%26rkt%3D12%26sd%3D383944603492%26itm%3D283051120678%26pmt%3D1%26noa%3D0%26pg%3D2047675%26algv%3DItemStripV101HighAdFeeWithCompV3Ranker&_trksid=p2047675.c101196.m2219&amdata=cksum%3A2830511206785f09052c980c409883c1d8e5739930f8|enc%3AAQAGAAACABJgNKpRsHfoti1oFo0Xiv0OLQEsNaf2pDClQ5xGlr1ay%2BCDvigRn2sbqNrfb%2BcKjmASx6fZD38FBOOzwa5CvpeHprm766T3UC8l9g1st5YvGQvO94XVFc9pBzLTJ6ApeH1TLUBAnDPKnzUTb0h0rZvFXrtouruquDC8re21koSLny5m3XTId0gSth2m65Fi7p0pZJacNkGU925SX1ZfZGDq%2FiFR%2BPePzSoc%2BYsT35bMNmtf14HfoAqiRMyRRWfJKAxy5s%2FGrb1yXEakyZznZoeFi6B08iUEb83estr4lq4FPt%2Fx0XAVqFjEUuRcf2DFw%2BUr9beP%2FpoW4oLKKYwCkABGbZx%2F0A65E3ee%2Fa0mZC16gUP32%2BJAK2cnfoCzcPxUgSUGanRDjo9gzxvf%2FmA15DjsfuQqeTXL6WhznGBL2dQ4mpxddrwphQka99IXbNtEeIpmc6sZUByXzyHK0beYFZKcCw1ibTPDGdKYd22CjHob2lb7lqZPX72%2BLFa%2Frue7unSedLkPC%2B3nT5TNYae1myYfuY0Z%2ByxW64y%2BkGRE8SVrE%2F1prt8evSql8DmbwJ2DYDKf9Qk%2BYhpY81iPzaOhOIeUz7c8QfrIXJWEnLp5t78sNFQNls32n6%2BEj%2FgMuJokdz98%2FTfP039aWunjbP%2Fy62obAW87jeaOVcAakBB9f0Ue|ampid%3APL_CLK|clp%3A2047675

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Longer term I'll probably have some sort of airbox or backing plate on there.

Since these throttles are a bit shorter than the 4AGE stuff, I've got heaps more room for an airbox and trumpets which is nice. 

So to get to the same effective length I can potentially have less of a sharp bend in the runners. 

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10 minutes ago, Roman said:

I left a line of HIPS filament sitting in both fuel samples, and almost instantly you could see the filament starting to fizz up. 

After about 3 hours they were both just a pile of goo.

is there a paint or coating you can do that will be risk free(to the engine) and still be fuel safe protecting the plastic?

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11 minutes ago, Valiant said:

Please 3d print a new exhaust soon.

The suspense is killing me.

Yeah I hear you. 
I had money set aside this month for exhaust bits, but then it was taken up by some other dumb stuff that wasnt car related.
Maybe I can sell some more carina parts... 

Also I've only got until Mid May for attending any events in this that require WOF/REG.
As it's unlikely I'll get another one without a cert. Will probably go down that path because this car's proven to be heaps of fun.

And yeah anywhere that's covered by carbon or epoxy is fine, it's just if the plastic is exposed directly. 
So worst case scenario I'll just doubly make sure this one's entirely coated.

This petrol also ate through the enamel paint on my engine cover. 
So it probably is D-Limonene as they use it as a paint stripper as well.

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1 hour ago, ~Slideways~ said:

I might have missed it, but have you looked at Carbon Nylon instead of HIPS?

I've recently got the bits to upgrade my 3d printer to be able to print my ITB manifold with it. Might be a better option?

It was about $100 for the filement so not too bad.

Yeah you're right it's the correct material for it. 

I've just been trying to resist ever using it because of the admin work of printing it (needing to prebake it, then keep it dry while you're printing) 

Even while you are printing a part, completely dried out nylon can absorb enough moisture from the air to make the end of your print a mess.
So you really need one of those dehumidifier boxes to keep the spool in while you print. 

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57 minutes ago, Roman said:

Yeah you're right it's the correct material for it. 

I've just been trying to resist ever using it because of the admin work of printing it (needing to prebake it, then keep it dry while you're printing) 

Even while you are printing a part, completely dried out nylon can absorb enough moisture from the air to make the end of your print a mess.
So you really need one of those dehumidifier boxes to keep the spool in while you print. 

I haven't tried it yet but I bought an eSun dry box thing to try fix that. Even my PLA is showing signs of absorbing moisture so prints have come out messy so I think it's the best way to do it.

Have you looked at Making for Motorsport on youtube? He did quite a bit of heat testing on Carbon Nylon and even printed it using a basic Ender 3 with a knock off metal hot end.

EDIT: and I think he also did tests with fuel but not sure if Ethanol based etc.

 

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I've got a carbon nylon manifold and set of trumpets here that @NicT printed a while back for beams motor.
Really nice surface finish, I love the texture and feel of it.
Yeah I really should just bite the bullet and set it up some time. I'll look into getting one of those drying boxes.

There's a bit of variation of quality of the brands of nylon filaments though, and it can make printing anywhere from pleasant to awful. 
I remember Nic gave me part of a roll to test to see if I could get it to work, one that had 20% carbon in it. 
But yeah it was gross. 

I also remember him saying that the Esun filament has styrene in it (which makes it stink / cancer awfulness like ABS)

It probably pays to just go straight to getting $$ass reamed$$ and buying some of the mark forge filament.



 

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