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Romans 2005 Toyota Echo


Roman

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15 minutes ago, GARDRB said:

I'd say if it were publicised, say on YouTube he might end up with more money than he needs

Eventually views could fund it, but only after 4 years of advertising wallets, hello fresh and vpns. 

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Yeah youtube money ain't nothing. unless your pulling 200k+ views per video

@Roman  how much stuff is in the way / how much of a straight run is there after that collector ?   maybe can slice the collector off and extend them?

 

 

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After that collector it's basically a straight run. Could probably easy-ishly convert it to a long 4-1 or 4-2-1 
The cat converter normally starts fairly close to where this is cut off.
Which is interesting because my understanding is the idea of the short 4-1 design is to get heat into the cat converter quicker. but it's not right up against the extractors. 
Maybe a single pipe just loses a lot less heat than 4 small ones. 

image.png.08fe78a11ca6fa68ccb852c59d5732d8.png

EDIT: That reminds me I've seen this mentioned somewhere before. 
This was in a paper about the 2ZZ motor.

image.thumb.png.5ce1fbcffc732ff22951da5da1921fb8.png


Interesting to see how much heat is lost by having individual pipes in a 2-1 section.
Also the power losses from having a gap in the flexy join to the 2-1 section. 4kw loss for a 4mm gap!
 

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send me some stock ones and some kinda way of knowing what space got to work with.   will see if can knock something up for you.  I'll take over the roman dave go fund me OS donations to pay for materials haha.    Whats the od of the tube?

Yeah that part is pretty sensitive,    and seems like another indication  anti revision chambers are bs.      Almost looks like that pipe in pic directly after the merge has a choke section then a cone out. well a peasant version of that setup.   

 

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Not sure how to explain the science behind it.   but  If mess around with sizes and cone angles etc  can  grab power in different places. the more aggressive the angle is seems give more bottom end.    can do some massive megaphone setup.  but fitment is an issue in most cases.   the double cone setup ive been using on my stuff seems to be a good compromise.     The "choke" section,  basically want to go small as possible without restricting power.   then cone out.  

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4K pistons always crack from the stress relief holes drilled at the ends of the oil return grooves. Results in rods chewing up the bore.

 

Time to get yourself some expensive swedish pistons, that sort of thing is your bag.

image.png.39e7d1dab314623bea70f950c530f838.png

 

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Sort of/not really relevant but I've heard stories of holden 6 pistons breaking in a similar fashion except the skirt and wrist pin part comes off , the top of the piston stays there and the rod keeps going up and down as the skirts keep it located correctly  

 

 

 

 

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I had an engine where a piston broke. Based on the galling in what was left of the pin bore, it actually looked like the pin may have seized prior to the piston disintegrating.  Theres a rule of thumb for maximum piston speed before forged pistons are required. 

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